Raise an excellent good Paste, six corner and an inch deep, and take some blanch’d Almonds, very finely beaten with Rosewater; take a pound of Sugar to a pound of Almonds, some grated bread, Nutmeg a little Cream, with strain’d Spinage as much as will colour the almonds green. So bake it with a gentle hot oven, not shutting the door. Draw it, and stick it with Orange-Citron.
To make a Cowslip-Tart
Take the blossoms of a gallon of Cowslips, mince them exceeding small, and beat them in a mortar; put to them a handful or two of grated Naples-Bisket and about a pint and a half of Cream, boil them a little over the fire, then take them off, and beat them in eight Eggs with a little Cream; if it does not thicken, put it over again till it does; take heed that it do not curdle. Season it with Sugar, Rosewater, and a little Salt; bake it in a dish or little open tart. It is best to let your Cream be cold before you stir in the Eggs.
To make a Chocolate-Tart
Put a spoonful of Rice-flour and a little Salt into a pan, together with the Yolks of five Eggs, a little Milk, and mix them well together, then add a pint of Cream, and Sugar according to your discretion; set it all to boil over a stove, taking care that it do not curdle. Meanwhile grate some Chocolate into a plate, dry it a little before the fire, and when your cream is boil’d take it off the fire, mix your chocolate well with it and set it by a cooling; sheet a tart pan put in your Cream and bake it; when it is baked, glaze it with powder’d Sugar and a red-hot shovel; so serve it.
Note: We make a Cinnamon-Tart in the same manner, only using grated Cinnamon instead of the Chocolate.
Take half a pint of the juice of Tansey, a whole pint of the juice of Spinage, a quart of Milk, three quarters of a pound of Naples-Bisket, and half a pound of fine Sugar; put all these ingredients to the Yolks of sixteen and the whites of ten Eggs, beaten well and strained. Put the whole into a stewpan and set it over a slow fire, having put in a slice of sweet Butter, and keep stirring it continually till it grows very thick; then take it off the fire, and let it stand till it is pretty cool rub a dish well with Butter, put in the Tansey and bake it, when you take it out of the oven, turn it out on a pye-plate, garnish it with Sweet-Meats and Oranges, and so serve it to Table.
Another Sort of Tansey
Having first washed, drain‘d, stamp’d and strain’d the Spinage, take a pint of the juice, a quart of Cream, and the like quantity of Milk; then beat up the Yolks of thirty Eggs, and the Whites of half that number, with a little Salt; strain the Eggs into the Cream and Spinage juice; grate in a Nutmeg, and add a pint of grated Bisket; sweeten it with Sugar, and set it over a fire to thicken, and when it is grown as thick as a hasty-pudding, put it in a dish well butter’d so set it in a gentle oven, where it will be baked in half an hour.
Put them into boiling water, and stir them about in it; then take them out, rub off the slime, and dry them very well, slit them along the back, drudge them with Salt and flour, so fry them brown, and serve them dry with fry’d Parsley.
To make a Fricassee of Tenches with a white Sauce
Having taken off the slime as before, gut them and cut off their heads; slit them in two and cut each half in three pieces. Melt some Butter in a saucepan, and put in your Tench, together with a few Mushrooms. Let your seasoning be Salt, Pepper, a bunch of Sweet Herbs, and an Onion stuck with Cloves; toss up all this together and then add to it a little boiling water and a pinch of flour. Make a pint of White Wine boiling hot, and put it into the Fricassee; when it wasted away as it ought to be, prepare a thickening with the Yolks of three or four Eggs, beat up in a little Verjuice or boil’d White Wine, and bind your fricassee with it, as you do one of Pullets; put in a little minced Parsley and a little scraped Nutmeg, so serve it.
To make a Fricasee of Tenches with Brown Sauce
Having prepar’d your Tenches as in the last Receipt; put some flour and Butter into a saucepan and brown it; then put in your Tench with Mushrooms and the seasoning last above mention’d when you have toss’d them up, moisten them with a little fish broth or juice of Onion; and having boil’d a pint of White Wine, put it into your Fricassee; when it is enough, bind it with a brown Cullis and serve it. When Asparagus and Artichoke bottoms are in season, we use them in this Fricassee having first blanch’d them.
To farce Tenches
Take off the slime, and slit the skin along the back of your Tenches, and with the point of your knife raise it up from the bone; then cut the skin crossways at the tail and head, and strip it off; then take out the bone. This done, bone a Tench or a Carp; put to the flesh of it, some Mushrooms, a little Parsley, and some Chives; season it with Salt, Pepper, Sweet Spices and a very little sweet Herbs; then having minced it all well together, pound it in a mortar, put to it a piece of Butter, the Yolks of three or four raw Eggs, the bigness of a couple of Eggs, the crumb of Bread soak’d in Cream and pound it all well together; then farce your Tenches with it and sew them up. Set a pan over a stove with some clarify’d Butter and when it is hot fry the Tenches in it one by one till they are brown, and then take them up. Melt the bigness of two Eggs, of Butter in a saucepan, then put to it a little flour and keep moving it till tis brown; moisten it with a little fish broth, and a little white Wine boiling hot; lay your fry’d Tenches into this Brown, add a seasoning of Salt, Pepper, a bunch of Sweet Herbs, and an Onion stuck with Cloves; so keep them simmering in it over a gentle fire. When they are enough, lay them in a dish, pour on them a Ragoo of Milts, and serve them.
At other times we serve them with a Ragoo of Crayfish or of Oysters.
You may likewise broil these farc’d Tenches, rubbing them first over with melted Butter and Salt; and when they are broil’d of a fine brown colour, serve them with a Ragoo of Truffles or Mushrooms.
To stew Tenches
Cut them into pieces and fry them in brown’d Butter; then set them to stew in the same Butter, with White Wine Verjuice, Salt, Pepper, Nutmeg a bunch of Sweet Herbs, a Bayleaf or two, and a little Flour. When the Fish is stew’d enough, put in some Capers and Oysters, with the juice of Mushrooms and Lemon; garnish the dish with fry’d bread.
To bake Tenches
Prepare and farce your Tenches above. Rub a silver dish or a pasty pan with Butter; over which lay a seasoning of Salt, Pepper, Sweet Herbs and Spices, an Onion cut in slices, some whole Chives and a little minced Parsley; then lay in your Tenches. Lay some of the same seasoning over them, sprinkle them with melted Butter, drudge them with very fine Crumbs of Bread, and bake them in an oven. We serve them with Ragoos of all sorts of Legumes, which we lay under them; or with a Cullis of Crayfish or with an Anchovie-Sauce, and sometimes dry.
Take a small quantity of all the ingredients mentioned in the Olio, and stew them down after the same manner; then place them in your dish that you intend to serve it in, or in a Terrine-Dish if you have one. A Terrine-Dish at Court is made of Silver, round and upright, holding about six quarts English measure, or three pints and a half Scotch measure; with two handles like those of a small cistern. If you have a Terrine-pan you must stew it in it an hour, after you have stew’d it down in a saucepan; and whereas you have put your soak’d Bread under your Olio, you must soak it in some of the same broth, and put it on the top of your Terrine, your Bread must be the upper crust of French Rolls; then it will look like the upper part of a brown loaf; but you must be sure to take the fat off before you put your bread in, and thicken your broth a little with green pease, strain’d with a little good broth, in the same manner as you do for pease-soop, not quite so thick as Cream; or you may thicken it with a Cullis. Send it away boiling hot off the fire; remember to turn up the breast of your fowl before you put in your bread; you may put a larded Sweetbread in the middle, under your crust; do not let your terrine-pan be fill’d up quite to the top, because your Cullis ought to swim as high as your Bread. The Butcher’s meat for your terrine must not be cut in such great pieces as for your Olio, and put in but few Herbs and Roots. You may dish it up after the same manner, if you have no Terrine dish, with a good rim to hold the liquor in; let not your meat be much higher than your rim, because it will look too much like an Olio, only the Bread being on the top makes it another thing. To make an alteration, you may bake it in an oven, half an hour before you use it, till your Bread and Cullis comes to a crust on the top of it. We do not use to bake it at court now, but only pour our cullis hot over the top of it when we serve it; but baking it is the good old way, therefore I leave either of them to your discretion. Be sure to clean the outside of your terrine-dish. So serve in hot, Summer or Winter.
Take the Kidney of a roasted loin of Veal, fat and all, some Parsley, some Lemon peel, and a little Sugar, mince it all well together, and pound it in a mortar; then spread some of this farce on toasts of Bread handsomely cut, four inches long and two broad. Butter the bottom of a tartpan, place the toasts all over it and bake them in an oven; when they are bak’d strew some Sugar over them, glaze them with a red hot fire shovel and either serve them in plates or little dishes, or use them for garnishings.
To make Toasts for Fish Days
Take the flesh of a Carp, season’d with a little Salt, some Parsley, Lemon-Peel some Biskets of bitter Almonds, and some fresh Butter; mince all this well together, and put it into a Mortar with a little Sugar, the Yolks of three or four Eggs, and a little of the crumb of Bread soak’d in Cream; when all this is well pounded together, spread it upon toasts, and observe the same directions for the rest as in the last receipt.
Wash them in several waters, blanch them in boiling water, and throw them into cold. Take two pounds of Buttock-Beef cut in slices, lay them on the bottom of a saucepan with some Bards of Bacon, cover it and set it over a stove. When it begins to stick to the saucepan, throw in a handful of flour, and stir it all together over the fire for some time; then put in as much water and Broth of each an equal quantity, as will just serve to cover your Tongues; which having plac’d in a stewpan pour the above ingredients upon them, season the whole with pepper, Salt, Sweet herbs and Spices, Onions, Parsley, Chives, Carrots, parsnips and Lemon-peel to stew them in it; then take them up and peel off the skin, slit them in two dip them in a little of the fat in which they were stew’d, drudge them with very fine crumbs of Bread; broil them, and serve them with a hash’d sauce; Sometimes we serve them with some essence of a Ham in the bottom of a dish, and the broil’d Tongues laid round it; and at other times only with Verjuice, Salt and Pepper.
To farce Calves Tongues
Cut a hole in the tongues with a very small knife, at the end next the throat, then thrust your finger the whole length of the, as if it were gut, taking care not to break the skin in any part of the Tongues. Then make a farce with the breasts of fowls, a little bit of a boil’d Ham of Bacon, some Mushrooms, Parsley, Chives, Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, and little blanch’d Bacon, a piece of Beef-Sewet and a little of the crumb of bread soak’d in Cream; add the yolks of three or four Eggs, hash all these ingredients well together, and pound them in a mortar; then farce your tongues with it, and set them to stew al la braise; when they are about half stew’d put in a ladleful of Beef-Gravy; and continue to stew them. Serve them with a Ragoo of Veal-Sweetbreads, for which you have the receipt. They are proper for the first course. At other times we serve them with a Ragoo of a Ham of Bacon, or of Cucumbers, or of Endive or lastly, with a hash’d sauce, all which see in their proper places.
To roast Calves Tongues
When they are half stew’d a la Braise, take them up, peel them and lard them with small Lardons, run a skewer through tem; tie them on a spit and roast them till they are of a fine colour. Serve them in plates or little dishes with some essence of a Ham of Bacon, or with a Poivrade.
After having gutted, wash’d and dry’d them with a napkin, we bind them about with packthread, sprinkle them over with melted butter and Salt; then broil them over a gentle fire and keep turning them from time to time. We serve them with a White Sauce made of Butter, a pinch of Flour, Salt, Pepper, Nutmeg, some Capers, one Anchovie, and a very little water and vinegar; we keep turning the sauce over the stove till it come to a due thickness then having laid the Trouts in a dish, pour the sauce upon them and serve them.
We serve them too with a Ragoo of Mushrooms or of Cucumbers, which see in their proper places; and sometimes use a Cullis of Crayfish to bind the Sauce, but in this case we put no Capers in it.
Note: we broil only the middle-sized Trouts.
To fry Trouts
After having gutted, wash’d and dry’d them, we score them on the sides, strew them over with Salt, drudge them with flour, and fry them in clarify’d butter, so serve them dry with fry’d Parsley.
We likewise dress Trouts all the several ways that we do Salmon, viz with Champaign Wine au Court Bouillon, farc’d etc.
Having gutted washed and dry’d your Turbot, fold it up in a napkin, and lay it into a large round saucepan. Put as much Salt and Water into another saucepan as will be sufficient to boil it, stir it about from time to time, till the salt is melted; then let is stand a while, and strain it through a linen cloth into the saucepan, to the Turbot. When it is enough, take off the saucepan and set it over live embers; put in two quarts of Milk; and let it stand till you are ready to serve; then take up the Turbot, lay it on a napkin folded in a dish. Let your garnishing be green Parsley, so serve it for the first course.
To dress a Turbot with Veal-Gravy
Having prepared your Turbot, lay it into a large round saucepan with a seasoning of Salt, Pepper, two bunches of Sweet Herbs, two Onions stuck with Cloves, and one Bayleaf. Lay into another saucepan, two or three pounds of a Fillet of Veal cut in slices, and some Bards of Bacon; cover the saucepan and set it over a stove with a slack fire; when the meat begins to stick put in a piece of butter, and a small handful of flour; stir it about over the stove with a wooden spoon; and when it is brown, moisten it with good Broth, and scrape off with the spoon all that sticks to the saucepan; cover the Turbot with slices of Bacon; make a bottle of Champaign or White Wine boiling hot, pour it on the Turbot, with the Veal Gravy, and lay the slices upon it. So set it a stewing and when it is enough done, let it stand in the liquor a couple of hours over live embers; that it may have the relish of it. Then serve it for the first course with a Ragoo of Sweetbreads, Cocks-combs, Truffles and Mushrooms; or with a Ragoo of Crayfish.
We likewise dress a Turbot for Fish days in the same manner; only instead of the above ingredients of flesh, we use Butter and Fish broth; and serve it with a Ragoo of the milts of Carps, or with any other meagre Ragoo.
To bake a Turbot
Lay some butter in a silver dish of the size of your turbot and spread it all lover it; let your seasoning be Salt, pepper a little scraped Nutmeg, some minced Parsley, some whole Chives, near a pint of Champaign or White Wine; cut off the head and tail of the Turbot, and having laid it in the dish, season it above as under, rub it over with melted Butter, drudge it well with bread crumm’d very small, and bake it in an oven; take care it be very brown, and serve it with a Crayfish Cullis, or with a sauce of Anchovies. We sometimes too service it dry.
To dress a TURKEY or GOOSE in Ragoo
Swing the Goose or Turkey, bet it down with a cleaver, flat it on a dresser, blanch it off in boiling water, and when it is cold, lard it with Lardons, as big as two quill; but first season them with Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, and beaten Cloves; then season your Turkey or Goose, outside and inside s you do for a pie and place in the bottom of your brass dish or great saucepan, with a pound of Suet and half a pound of Bacon, both cut in Slices; flour the breast of your Fowl, turn it down in your saucepan; set it a stewing two hours before you want it, over a clear fire; put into it at first, half a pint of fat broth or gravy, then let is stew softly till it comes to a good colour put to it two whole Onions, two Bayleaves and a sprig of Thyme; cover it with baking cover, and put a little clear fire over the top; you must look on it frequently that it burn not. When the breast is of a browness to your mind, then turn the back down, adding to it a little Broth or Gravy, till it is stew’d tender. At the same time put over the fire in another saucepan, a quarter of a pound of Butter, a little handful of flour, and two Onions; rub it softly till it comes to a good brown, then put to it a quart of good gravy. If in winter time your Ragoo may be Carrots, Turnips and Onions, cut the bigness of the yolk of an Egg fry’d in Hogs Lard, or clarify’d Butter. But first half boil them, to take away the over-strongness of your roots and Onions, and boil them tender in your above sauce; then put it over your Goose or Turkey, first taking the fat off, and squeezing half a lemon; boil it up to a moderate thickness, a little thicker than a cream; if your fowl be of a good colour, put your Ragoo under it, but none over. Let your garnishing be fry’d bread cut in small bits and fry’d parsley betwixt.
You may Ragoo any Fowl after the same manner, or Butchers meat. This Ragoo is properly for a rump of Beef, or a sirloin, an Ox Head, or a giggot of Mutton or breast of Veal; but not for small fowl, if you are in a country where you can have anything else. Yet for a change, take four small fowl, Morils, green or dry’d Mushrooms, according to the season of the year, Asparagus cut inch long or Chestnuts. All, or any of these, may serve at a time, as the country can afford, or you may use a few forc’d meat balls, stew’d off in your Sauce. Let your garnishing be according to your fancy. So serve it for the first course.
