To dress partridges the Spanish way

 

Parboil, bard, and roast them; when they are ready, pound one of them in a mortar with all the livers.  Take a ladleful of a cullis of veal and ham, half a spoonful of the essence of a Ham, and another half spoonful of Veal-Gravy; mix these well with your pounded Partridge, and set it to simmer over a gentle fire, but keep it from boiling; strain it through a sieve.  Then put into a saucepan two glasses of Champaign wine, with a slice of an Onion and one or tow Rocamboles; boil this till half the Wine is wasted away, then strain it through a sieve.  Cut up your Partridges, put them into a saucepan with the Champaign wine and cullis, together with two or three spoonfuls of Oyl; set all this to simmer over hot Embers, but let it not boil.  When it has simmer’d as long as you think convenient; lay your partridges handsomely in a dish, squeeze in the juice of two or three Oranges, pour your sauce upon them, and serve them for first course.

 

 

To dress Partridges with savoury herbs

 

When they are pull’d and drawn, loosen the skin of the Breast with your finger; mix a little shred Parsley and savoury Herbs with scrap’d Bacon, all seasoned with Salt and Pepper; farce your partridges with this between the skin and the flesh; bard them all round, and lay them to the fire; when they are roasted, take off the bards, lay them in a dish, throw upon them some essence of ham or a thin Cullis, and serve them for first course.

 

 

To dress Partridges with a Ragoo of Mushrooms

 

Having prepared your Partridges as in the former Receipt, scrape some Bacon, and put to it some Parsley and two Mushrooms shred small, and seasoned with pepper and Salt; mix all this well together, and stuff your Partridges between the skin and flesh, bard them on the breast and back and roast them.  Peel some Mushrooms, was them and cut them in slices; toss them up in a saucepan, moisten them with Veal-gravy and essence of Ham.  When the Partridges are roasted, take them up, and having taken off the Bards, lay them handsomely in a dish, throw the Ragoo of Mushrooms upon them, and serve them for first Course.

 

We dress partridges with a Ragoo of Morils, or of Truffles, in the same manner.

 

 

To dress Partridges with Carp Sauce

 

Farce, bard and roast them as in the foregoing receipt; and having laid them in the dish, pour on them a Carp sauce.  You will find directions to make it in the Article, Pheasant with Carp-Sauce.

 

 

To dress Partridges a la Braise

 

The Partridges being pull’d and drawn, truss the legs into the bodies, parboil them and lard them with large lardoons, season’d with pepper, Salt, Savoury herbs, spices, shred Parsley and Chives.  Take a kettle of a size proportionable to the number of your Partridges; cover the bottom of it with bards of Bacon, and lay over them thin slices of Beef; then put in some sliced Onion and Carot, and some shred Parsley.  Season this with Salt, pepper, savoury Herbs, and spices.  Lay in your Partridges with the Breasts downwards, season them above as underneath, lay over them slices of Beef and Bards of Bacon, cover the kettle and set them to stew with fire under and over.  Make a Ragoo of Veal Sweetbreads, fat Livers, Cockscombs, Mushrooms, Truffles, Asparagus tops and Artichoke bottoms, according to the season, in the following manner.  Toss up in a saucepan, with a little melted Bacon, the Sweetbreads, fat Livers, cockscombs, Mushrooms and Truffles; moisten them with good Gravy, let them simmer in it half an hour, skim off the fat very clean; and having first blanch’d your Asparagus tops and Artichoke bottoms in water, put them into the saucepan, and thicken your Ragoo with a cullis of Veal and Ham.  When the Partridges are stew’d as they ought, take them out of the kettle and drain them; then put them to simmer in the Ragoo, lay them handsomely in a dish, pour the Ragoo upon them, and so serve them for first course.

 

We sometimes serve these Partridges a la Braise with a Ragoo of Cucumbers, or with a hashed sauce.  Of both which you will find the Method of Making in Letter B.

 

 

Partridges with sliced Ham

 

When they are pick’d and drawn, take the Livers and pound them in a Mortar with scraped Bacon, one Mushroom and a little Parsley and Chives, minced very small, season’d with spice, Salt, pepper and Savoury herbs, all pounded together.  Loosen the skin of the Breasts of the Partridges, and farce them with the Farce of the Livers; then parboil them, wrap them up in Bards of Bacon, spit them and lay them to the fire.  While they are roasting, cut some thin slices of the lean of a Gammon of Bacon, beat them, and lay them in the bottom of a small stewpan, cover it with a plate or dish, and set it a sweating; when it begins to stick, put in a pinch of flour, keep moving it over the stove, moisten it with gravy without salt, put in a bunch of Herbs, and let is simmer over a gentle Fire; then take off all the fat; and thicken it with a Cullis of Veal and Ham.  When your Partridges are roasted, take off the Bards of Bacon, lay them handsomely in a dish, garnish them with slices of Ham, pour the sauce upon them, and serve them warm for first course.

 

We likewise serve roasted Partridges with a Ragoo of Cucmbers; or else of Endive or Succory; the Table will direct you to find them.

 

 

To dress Partridges with Olives

 

Having farced the Partridges with scrap’d Bacon and Herbs, as those above, wrap them up in Bards of bacon, and lay them to roast.  Take two or three dozen of Olives, stone them and blanch them in boiling water.  Put them to simmer in a saucepan with some Cullis of Veal and Ham, and a little essence of Ham; take up your Partridges, unbard them, and having laid them in a dish, throw the Ragoo of Olives upon them, and serve them for the first course.

 

 

To hash Partridges

 

Roast them, take off the skin, and cut them in slices.  Toss up in a saucepan some Mushrooms with a little melted Bacon; moisten them with Veal-Gravy set them on the stove to simmer over a gentle fire, take off the fat, thicken them with a cullis of Veal and Ham, put your hash’d partridges into the Ragoo and heat them; then season the whole with Salt and Pepper; so serve them for hors d’Oeuvres.

 

 

To dress Partridges a Biberot

 

When they are roasted, take the meat off their Breasts, and if there be not enough of that, add to it the breasts of fat Pullets roasted; flour a board, and mince the meat upon it.  Pound the Carcasses in a marble mortar, and stew them with gravy;  when they are stew’d, strain the Liquor through a sieve, then put them into a pipkin with the minced Meat; set it to stew over a slack fire, but take care that it do not stick to the bottom; put in a spoonful of two of essence of Ham, neither too thin nor too fat; when it is enough, dish it up in plates or small dishes, and serve it up hot to be eaten with a spoon.  But if you strew it over with chippings of Bread grated fine, as some do, you may eat it with a fork.

 

To dress Partridges a l’Estouffade

 

Lard them with large Lardons, toss them up in Butter or melted bacon; when they are very brown, put them into a pot with good broth, well season’d and boil them.  Toss up some truffles, Mushrooms, and Artichoke Bottoms, moisten them with good Gravy, lay your Partridges to simmer a little in the Ragoo, squeeze in some juice of Lemon, and serve them.  Let your garnishing be sliced Lemon.

 

Patty and Pasty.  See Pie.

 

 

 

To stew Pease the French Way

 

Take some Lettice, and cut them in little bits, together with three or four Onions; take likewise some slices of Bacon, and a little Butter.  Season the whole with pepper and Salt, and toss it up over a stove till the Lettice is hot.  Then add your Pease, and keep them stewing till they are tender.  Then put to them a little boiling water or good broth; let them stew softly, and serve them with a piece of broil’d bacon in the middle of the dish, together with Parsley and grated Bread.  They are proper for the first

Course.

 

 

To dress Pease with Cream

 

Take two quarts of green Pease very young, toss them up with Butter, and let them stew over a gentle fire; put to them a little bunch of Parsley and Chives; when they are almost ready, season them with salt; put some Cream among them and if you please, a little sugar.  Serve them in plates or little dishes.

 

Another way to stew green Pease

 

Put them into a saucepan with a lump of fresh Butter; season them with Pepper, Salt and a bunch of Herbs; cover them, and let them stew over a gentle fire, taking care to shake them from time to time.  When they are near ready, put to them a pinch or two of flour, moisten them with a little boiling water, and keep them simmering a while longer.  When the liquor is pretty near wasted away, put in a little sugar and stir them about.  So serve them warm in plates or little dishes.

 

 

 

To dress Perches with Anchovie-Sauce

 

Gut your Perches, and stew them in a Court-Bouillon, as follows:  Lay them into a stewpan with some sliced Onion and Lemon, some Parsley, Chives, Bayleaf, Basil, Cloves, pepper and Salt, two Glasses of White Wine, a little Vinegar, and as much water as will just cover them.  So stew them over a stove; then take them off, and set them to cool a little in the Court Bouillon;  when they have stood a little while, take them out, skin them without breaking the flesh, lay them in a dish, and cover them that they may not grow cold.  Put some fresh butter into a saucepan, with a little flour, a couple of minc’d Anchovies, some Capers, and a whole Leek, a slice or two of Lemon, the whole being season’d with Salt, pepper and a little Nutmeg, add to it a little water and vinegar.  Keep turning the Sauce over a stove with a spoon, and when the butter is melted and thicken’d take out the leek and slic’d Lemon, pour it on the Perches, and serve them for the first course.

 

 

To dress Perches with a Cullis of Crayfish

 

Your Perches being stew’d in a court Bouillon,  skimm’d and laid in a dish, as in the foregoing Receipt, make a sauce as follows:  Put the quantity of two Eggs of fresh Butter into a saucepan, with one minc’d Anchovie, some Pepper, Salt, a little grated Nutmeg, a pinch of flour, a drop or two of water, and as much Vinegar; turn it over a stove with a spoon.  When the Butter is melted, and a little thicken’d put in some Crayfish Cullis, pour this sauce on your Perches, and serve them for the first course.  We serve them likewise with all the other sorts of Cullisses as well as this.

 

 

To make a Ragoo of Perches

 

Your Perches being gutted, lay them on a gridiron and half broil them, then take them up and skin them handsomely.  Put into a saucepan half a pint of white wine, a little Fish broth, shred Parsley, a Bayleaf, an Onion stuck with Cloves, and season this with Salt and pepper.  Put into a stewpan as big as an Egg of Butter, with a little flour, and when it is half brown, pour it on the Liquor you had prepar’d in the saucepan, lay in your Perches, and make them simmer over a gentle fire.  When they are stew’d lay them in a dish, and pour on them any of the meagre Ragoos, for which you will find the Receipts in letter R and serve them for first course.

 

 

To make a Ragoo of Perches, cut in slices

 

Cut your Perches in slices the whole length of the body, dividing each perch into four pieces.  Toss up some Mushrooms in Butter, and put to them a little Cream.  Then put in your slices of Perch, with the Yolks of three Eggs, some shred Parsley and grated Nutmeg.  Keep stirring them very gently, for fear of breaking them.  When they are ready, lay them in a dish, pour your Ragoo upon them, and serve them for the first Course.

 

 

 

Having barded your Pheasants, roast them, and take care they do not dry.  To make the sauce, lay in the bottom of a stewpan, some Veal slices, as you do when you make Gravy.  Add to this Veal some slices of a Gammon of bacon, some slic’d onion, some Parsley Roots, and a bunch of Sweet herbs.  Then gut a Carp, wash it in one Water only, without scaling it; cut it in pieces, as if you were to stew it, and lay them in the same stewpan. Brown this a little over a stove, as if you would make gravy of it; then wet it with good gravy, pour in a bottle of Champaign wine and add a Clove of Garlick, some minced Truffles and Mushrooms, and some small crusts of Bread.  Boil all this well together, and take care it be not too Salt.  When it is well boil’d strain it in a sieve, forcing it through, that the sauce may be pretty thick; if it be not, put to it some Partridge-Cullis, and pour it into a saucepan; before you serve, bind your Pheasants with packthread, put them into this sauce, and keep them warm.  When you would serve unbind them, lay them in a dish and pour the sauce upon them.

 

 

To dress a Pheasant a la Braise

Your pheasant being pick’d and drawn, cut off the legs, truss the end of the thighs into the body and parboil it; lard it with big lardoons, well season’d, Garnish the Bottom of a stewpan with bards of Bacon and slices of Beef well beaten, season’d with Salt, pepper, spices, Savoury Herbs, sliced Onion, Carot and Parsnip, and then lay in your Pheasant; strew some of the same seasoning over it, cover it with slices of Beef and Bacon in like Manner as under it, and set it to stew with fire over and under it.  Make a Ragoo with fat livers, Veal-Sweetbreads, Mushrooms, Truffles, Artichoke Bottoms, or Asparagus Tops, according to the Season.  Toss all this up in melted Bacon, moisten it with Gravy, and make it simmer over a gentle fire.  When it is ready, take off all the fat, and thicken it with a Cullis of Veal and Ham.  Take up your Pheasant, drain it well, lay it in a dish, pour your Ragoo upon it, and serve it warm.

 

We serve this Pheasant a la Braise every day differently, that is to say, sometimes with Ragoos of legumes, at others with a Ragoo of Oysters, or of Crayfish, etc.

 

 

 

To make an Oyster Pie

 

For a plate or little dish, blanch off a quart of Oysters or more, take them from the tails and shells, and drain them from the Liquor; then take a quarter of a pound of Butter, a minc’d Anchovie, two spoonfuls of grated bread, a spoonful of minc’d Parsley, a little beaten Pepper, a scraped Nutmeg, a little or no salt, because your Oysters and the Anchovie have a seasoning of themselves; then make a paste as follows:  Take above a quarter of a pound of Butter, work with a good handful of flour; put to it a spoonful or two of cold water, then part it in two and roll out each half, as if it were for a Tart.  It is proper you should bake your Oyster Pye on the Mazarine you serve it in, or a little patty pan then place on the bottom paste, half of your mix’d Butter, Anchovie, and Parsley aforesaid lay on your Oysters, two or three thick at most, put the rest of your Butter and Parsley on the top, and a slice of Lemon, then wet it about with some of your Oyster liquor, strewing a little beaten Pepper and Nutmeg over your Oysters and two spoonfuls of your liquor; then cover it up as you do a tart, only turn and cut it handsomely round, and turn the edge of your Paste, all round an inch high.  Bake it three quarts of an hour before you have occasion for it; then cut up its cover, and squeeze in a Lemon.  Shake it gently together and cut your cover in bits, and lay handsomely round it.  So serve it for the first course;  Note:  You may bake it without a cover.

 

 

To make a Salmon Pie

 

If you please, you may raise an oval Pye, six inches high, and long according to the bigness of your Joll, or side of Salmon; or you may make it in a pattypan.  The difference is only if you raise it, it must be hot Paste, but if you make it in a patty pan, it must be cold Paste, as you did for your Oyster Pie, only your quantity must be bigger; and your bottom, or upper crust must be as thick as that of any other pie, (Venison and Beef excepted) because the Salmon will take a good deal of baking.  Your paste being thus ready, prepare your Salmon as follows:;  If it is for a rais’d pie keep your Joll whole, according to the bigness of your Coffin; cut it with your knife on the outside to the bone, an inch betwixt each cut; and likewise joint the chine bone, otherwise it will turn up and throw off your pie cover in baking; then take a spoonful of beaten pepper, half a Nutmeg, three spoonfuls of Salt; rub all this very fine with the side of your knife on your dresser, and season your Salmon on both sides, according to your discretion, then take half a pound of butter, two small handfuls of minc’d Parsley, a little bit of minced Thyme, and two minc’d Anchovies, mix all these together, with a little of your aforesaid seasoning; place half of it in the bottom of your pie; then put in your salmon and the other half over it; pour in three spoonfuls of White Wine, or Water and close on your cover, leaving a vent in the middle.  Bake it an hour and half, or more according to the bigness of your Salmon.  When it is bak’d cut off your cover.  If you find it is too fat, skim off some, and if you find it is too dry, put to it a spoonful or two of warm white Wine, a spoonful or two of drawn Butter and the Juice of a Lemon.  Serve it hot for the first course or remove, without the cove.  But if you make it in a pattypan, cut it in slices, as if it were to broil, or rather thicker, and lay it round the pan on the bottom Crust; but you must not lay one slice on the top of another, season it and order it as you did your pie in the paste, only it will not take so much baking by an hour, and serve it without a cover, shake it with the juice of Lemon, that you must squeeze in as you are going to serve.

 

 

To make a Salt fish Pie

 

Take a side of Salt Fish or less, according to the bigness of your dish, and water it well over night; next morning put it over the fire in a large pan of water, and boil it till it is fit to eat; then throw it out into cold water, drain it on a colander, place it with its back on your kitchen table, take all the white of your fish clean from the skin and bones, searching the bones nicely out with your fingers; and mince it pretty small with your mincing knife.  You must have a square bit of your Salt fish as big as your hand, whole, with the skin on then take the crumb of two French rolls cut in slices, and boil’d up with a pint of Cream and a pint of Milk; break your bread very small with a spoon, and put to it your minc’d Salt fish, a pound of Butter, two spoonfuls of fine minc’d Parsley, half a grated Nutmeg, some beaten pepper, but no Salt, except you find your Salt fish too fresh with the watering and boiling; if you find it too salt after you have minc’d it you may put it into a quart of cold milk, and let it lie an hour, then throw it into a colander, and squeeze it well from the milk, and so stir it over the fire with your above ingredients; when you find it is of a good taste and thickness spread it on a dish till it is cold.  At the same time, prepare a rais’d pie in the last Receipt.  When it is cold, place it in with your square piece of Salt Fish on the top, then cover it up as you do another pie.  If a rais’d Pie, bake it two hours, if in a Pattypan, one hour.  When bak’d cut up your cover; if there is any oil, skim it off with a spoon, then throw over it six hard Eggs, minc’d small, pour upon it some drawn butter, and shake it together and serve it hot.  You may make a Ling or Stock Fish Pie the same way, only instead of taking Yolks and Whites for the Salt Fish Pie, you must take nothing but Yolks for these.

 

 

To make a Patty of Mushrooms

 

Your Mushrooms being fresh gather’d well pick’d and wash’d put them in a sauce pan with a quarter of a pound of Butter, a little minc’d Parsley, a little Pepper and Salt, a little slice of Bacon, stuck with four Cloves, and a whole Onion; cover it up close, and stew them over the fire, shake on them a dust of flour, giving them a shake now and then as they stew, that they burn not; when their own Liquor comes to be as thick about them as a good Cream, throw out the whole Onion and Bacon, and set them to cool; then sheet a little Tart pan, the Bigness of your plate, with good fine paste, such as you use for Tarts; let it be as thick as a halfpenny, then pour on your cold Mushrooms, cover it with another sheet of paste, and bake it three quarters of an hour before you want it.  Cut off your cover, and squeeze in half a Lemon, shake it together and so serve it.  Or you may bake it without a cover, but then you must throw over your mushrooms, a little brown raspings of a French Roll when it is bak’d squeeze in half a Lemon; so serve it for second course.  Note:  that your Mushrooms being prepar’d as above, you may likewise put them into patty pans to garnish a fricassee of Chickens; or any Ragoo of Beef, Mutton, or Veal.

 

 

To make a Lobster Patty

 

Your Lobsters being boil’d and cut in little pieces, take the small claws and the Spawn, and pound them in a marble Mortar; then put to them a ladleful of Gravy or Broth, with a little of the upper Crust of a French roll; when it is boil’d, strain it thro’ a strainer or sieve, to the thickness of a cream, and put half of it to your Lobsters, and save the other half to fauce them with, after they are bak’d.  Put to the Lobsters the bigness of an Egg of Butter, a little Pepper and salt, squeeze in a lemon, add in half a minc’d Anchovie and warm this over the fire, just so much as to melt the butter; then set it to cool, and sheet your patty pan for a plate or dish, as you did for your mushrooms in the last Receipt.  Then put in your Lobsters, and cover it with a Paste; bake it three quarters of an hour before you want it; when it is bak’d cut up your cover, and draw up the other half of your sauce above-mention’d with a little butter, to the thickness of a Cream, and pour it over your Patty, with a little squeez’d Lemon; cut your cover in tow, and lay it on the top, two inches distant, that it may be seen what is under.  You may bake Crayfish, shrimps, or Prawns, the same way; and they are all proper for plates or little dishes, for second course.

 

 

To make a Patty of Calves brains

 

Clean the Brains very well, sand scald them.  Then blanch some Asparagus tops in a saucepan with a little Butter and Parsley.  When they are cold, put them in the Patty with the Brains, the Yolks of five or six hard Eggs, and some of the forc’d meat, for which you have the directions in Letter F.  When it is bak’d squeeze in the juice of a Lemon pour in some drawn butter and gravy. So serve it.

 

To make a Pie of Partridges, Woodcocks, etc to be eaten warm

 

Take a brace of Partridges and another of Woodcocks.  Draw your Partridges and keep the livers.  Truss up both one and t’other and beat them on the Breast with a rolling pin, so as to break all their bones; then having larded them with great Lardons, season’d with pepper, Salt, herbs and Spices; slit them along the back.  Pound the livers of your Partridges, with scrap’d Bacon, Mushrooms, Truffles, Chives and Parsley, season’d in a like manner as your above Lardons.  When it is well pounded, stuff with it the bodies of your woodcocks and Partridges, and season them besides.  Having prepar’d and rais’d your paste, lay them in all round it, with some Mushrooms and Truffles, and a Bay leaf.  Cover them all over with bards of Bacon, lid your pie, and set it in the oven.  When it is bak’d enough draw it out of the oven, cut up the cover, take out the Bacon, skim off all the fat; and having prepar’d a Cullis of partridges with Veal-Sweetbreads, Truffles and Mushrooms, pour it hot into the Pie, squeeze in a Lemon, and serve it for the first course.

 

The hot Pies of Chickens, Pigeons, Larks, Quails, Thrushes, and the like are made and serv’d in the same manner.

 

 

To make a Pheasant Pie

 

Your Pheasant being drawn and larded with great Lardons, take some scraped Bacon, with some raw mushrooms and a Truffle, some Parsley and Chives, all shred very small; mix all this well together, and stuff the body of your Pheasant with it.  Then having rais’d your Paste into a Pie, lay some scrap’d Bacon on the Bottom of it, season’d with Salt, pepper, Herbs and Spices.  Lay in your Pheasant, season’d in like Manner, cover it with slices of Veal, grated Bacon, fresh Butter, and Bards of bacon over all.  Then lid your Pie, and set it in the Oven; while it is baking, take some Truffles, and having peel;d and wash’d them well, cut them in slices, put them into a sauce-pan with some good Gravy, let them simmer over a soft fire, and thicken them with a Cullis of Veal and ham.  When your Pie is baked, cut up the cover, take out the Bards of Bacon and Slices of Veal, skim of all the fat, pour in your Ragoo of Truffles and serve it hot.

 

Instead of a Ragoo of Truffles, you may serve this Pheasant Pie with a Carp sauce, or with a Ragoo of Sweetbreads and Livers.

 

We make Pies of partridges, Ducks and Quails, in the same manner as we do this Pheasant Pie.

 

 

To make a Rabbit Pie

 

Keep the Livers of Your Rabbits cut off the heads, and the first joint of the legs:  Lard them with great Lardons, season’d with Salt, pepper, savoury Herbs, Spice, Parsley and chives.  Prepare your pie, as usual; and garnish the bottom of it with scraped Bacon; season’s as above.  Cut your Rabbits in two in the Middle, and place them in your Pie, having season’d them with the same seasoning, and put to them a bunch of Herbs.  Cover them with slices of Veal and Bards of Bacon, put on the Lid, rub it over with beaten Eggs, and set it in the Oven.  Then make a Cullis as follows:  Take a pound of a fillet of Veal, and a piece of a Gammon of Bacon; cut them in slices, and lay them in the bottom of a stewpan, together with some sliced Onion and Carot, and your Rabbits Livers over them; cover your stewpan and set it over a stove; when the Livers begin to warm, take them out and pound them in a Mortar.  When your Cullis begins to stick to the stewpan, throw in a little melted bacon with a Pinch of Flour, stir it about, moisten it with Gravy, season it with savoury herbs, a whole Leek, a little Parsley, two or three Cloves, two or three Mushrooms, and as many Truffles:  Add two or three crusts of Bread, let is simmer half an hour; then take out your slices of Veal, put in your pounded Lives, mix them well with it; strain it through a sieve into a saucepan, set it over a fire to keep it hot, but take care that it do not boil.  When your pie is bak’d open it, take out the veal slices, take off all the fat, place the pie in a dish, pour in your Cullis, and serve it for the first course.

 

 

 

To make a Pigeon Pie

 

When your Pigeons are pick’d, drawn and truss’d, lard them with well season’d Lardons.  Take the Livers and some raw Bacon, some Parsley, Chives, savour Herbs, Mushrooms, Truffles and Marrow; mince them all very small, and pound them together in a Mortar.  Stuff the Bodies of your Pigeons with this, and keep some of it to lay under them in the Pie.  Form your Pie, cover the bottom of it with the Farce, then having seasoned your Pigeons, lay them in upon it, put in a Bay Leaf; cover your Pigeons with slices of Veal and Bards of Bacon, lay on the lid and set it in the oven; when it is bak’d cut off the cover, take out the Veal and Bacon, skim off the fat, pour in a good Ragoo of Sweetbreads, Cocks-combs, Mushrooms, etc. and serve it hot for the first course.  You will find the way of making that Ragoo in Letter R.  Article Ragoo.  We likewise serve this Pigeon Pie without any Ragoo, pouring in a Cullis of Veal and Ham, after we have taken off the fat.

 

Note:  That a Turkey Pie is made in the same manner.

 

 

To make a Chicken Pie

 

Take a couple of fat Chickens, and parboil them; then lard them with great lardoons, seasoned with Salt, pepper, Spices, minced Herbs, Chives and Parsley.  Take the Livers of your Chickens and pound them in a mortar with scraped Bacon, Truffles, parsley and Chive, seasoned with a little Salt, pepper, Savoury Herbs and Spices; when all this is well pounded together, farce the bodies of your Chickens with it.  Having made your Paste, rowl a sheet of it about an inch thick, and lay it on a sheet of butter’d paper; make the pie of the size of your Chickens, and cover the bottom of it with a little pounded Bacon, seasoned with Salt, pepper, the usual herbs and Spices; lay in your Chickens, season them above as beneath, and cover them with thin slices of Veal and Bards of Bacon, together with a bit of fresh butter; then lid your pie and set it in the oven:  let it bake three or four hours.  Meanwhile take some raw Truffles, and having peel’d and wash’d them, cut them in pieces, and put them into a saucepan; moisten them with Veal Gravy, and set them to stew over a gentle fire; when they are enough, thicken them with a Cullis of Veal and Ham; and a little essence of Ham.  When your pie is baked, draw it out of the oven; take the paper from the bottom of it, cut up the cover, take out the Veal and the Bacon, and skim off all the fat; pour your Ragoo of Truffles into the pie, and serve it for the first course.  Instead of Truffles, you may serve it with a Ragoo of Oysters or of Crayfish; which see in their proper places.

 

Note:  That Pies of Pullets, Capons and Turkey-Poults are made in the same manner.

 

 

To make a Duck Pie, to be eaten warm

 

Take two ducks, and having got them ready as for roasting, parboil them, and lard them with great Lardons of Bacon, and the lean of a Ham, season’d with Salt and Pepper, savoury herbs, spices, and some shred Chives and Parsley.  When they are larded, rowl a sheet of paste an inch thick, raise it into a pie, and cover the bottom of it with pounded Bacon, seasoned as your above lardoons, and lay in your Ducks:  Fill up the empty spaces with Mutton-Cutlets, larded and seasoned as above; then strew some of the same seasoning all over the pie, and lay over the whole some slices of Veal, and over them some Bards of Bacon, and a bit of fresh Butter, cover your pie with a sheet of Paste, and bake it four or five hours; meanwhile make a Ragoo with Sweetbreads, Livers, Cocks-combs, Truffles and Mushrooms; toss them all up in a stewpan with a little melted Bacon, moisten them with good Gravy, let them simmer half an hour over a gentle fire, take off all the fat, and thicken them with a Cullis of Veal and ham.  When your pie is bak’d, place it in a dish, cut up the cover, take out the Veal and Bacon, skim the fat clean off, pour in the Ragoo, and serve it for the first Course.

 

 

To make a Duck Pie, to be eaten cold

 

Prepare, parboil, lard, and season your Duck as in the last Receipt.   Having made your paste, rowl a sheet of it an inch thick, and of the largeness you intent to make your pie.  Rub a sheet of paper with butter, flour a table, lay the paper upon it, and the paste upon that, raise your pie, and then take some minc’d Chives and Parsley, and pound them in a Mortar with fresh Butter, and stuff the bodies of your ducks with it.  Cover the bottom of your pie with pounded Bacon, season’d with Salt, pepper, herbs and Spices.  Lay in your Ducks, and fill up the intervals with some of the pounded Bacon:  put in one Bayleaf and cover the while with bards of Bacon; lid your pie with a sheet of the same paste, rub it over with an Egg, and set it into the Oven; when it begins to grow brown, cut a hole in the lid to give it air, and cover it with a sheet of paper.  Let is bake four or five hours, then draw it, stop up the hole you made in the lid; and when the pie is half cold, turn it upside down, and let it stand in that manner till it is quite cold.  When you would serve it cut it open, place it in a dish with a clean napkin under it, and serve it for the second course.

 

 

To make a Goose Pie

 

Parboil the Goose and bone it, then season it with Salt and Pepper.  Put it into a deep crust with a good deal of butter both under and over it.  Bake it well, and then pour in as much melted Butter at the Vent-Hole as will fill up the pie.  Serve it with Mustard and Sugar.

 

 

Another Way

 

Bone the Goose, or only slit it down the back.  Take out the breast bone and break the others: Cut two Rabbits in pieces: season with four ounces of Salt, two of pepper, and two Nutmegs.  If the goose be large, stick the breast of it with Clovers:  Put one half pound of Butter in the Belly and with another cover the bottom of the pie.  Lay in the Goose with the Breast downwards, and with the pieces of Rabbit fill up the void spaces, lay three pounds of butter on the top, and when you take it out of the oven, fill up the pie with clarify’d Butter.

 

 

 

 

To make a Lamb Pie the German Way

 

Take a quarter of lamb, cut it in pieces, and lard them with small lardoons, season them with Salt, pepper, Nutmeg, Cloves, Bayleaf, pounded Bacon, Chives and Savoury Herbs, put them into Paste, and bake them three hours; then draw your pie, cut it open, take off all the fat, pour into it a Ragoo of Oyster, [which see in Letter O] and serve it hot for the first course.

 

 

To make a Carp Pie

 

After having gutted and scal’d your Carp, lard it with lardoons of Eel, season your Carp with Butter, Salt, pepper, Cloves, Nutmeg and Bayleaf.  Raise your dough long-ways, the length of your Carp, which having put in, lid your Pie, put it into an oven not too hot, and when it is half bak’d pour in a glass of White Wine; when it is quite bak’d, cut it open, take off the fat, pour in a Ragoo of Oysters and serve it for first course.

 

Note:  That we sometimes farce the belly of the Carp with a farce made of the Milts of Carps, Oysters, Mushrooms, and Artichoke-Bottoms, as has been directed in Letter C.

 

 

To make a Sole Pie

 

Half-fry your soles, and cut the flesh from the bones in long slices.  Make a farce with the flesh of Eels, with Mushrooms, Truffles, savoury herbs and fresh Butter, season’d with Pepper and Salt.  Having rais’d your pie, lay some of this farce over the bottom of it, and over that your sliced Soles; throw over them a seasoning of Salt, pepper, Spice and Herbs; cover it over with fresh Butter, then lid your Pie, rub it over with Egg, and set it in the Oven.  When it is bak’d cut it open, take off the fat, and pour in a Ragoo of Truffles; so serve it hot for the first course.  You will find the way of making a Ragoo of Truffles in Letter R.  Article Ragoo.

 

 

To make an Eel Pie

 

Having strip't your eels, cut them in pieces three or four inches long.  Make a small farce with some of the flesh, some Mushrooms, Chives, parsley and fresh Butter, season’d with salt, Pepper, Spices and Herbs.  Raise your pie of fine paste, and of a moderate height; garnish the bottom of it with the farce, and then lay in your bits of Eels, season’d in the same manner as your farce; add a bunch of herbs, and cover the whole with butter; then lid your pie, rub it over with Egg, and set it in the Oven.  Make a Ragoo of the Milts of fish, Truffles and Mushrooms.  When your pie is bak’d, cut it open, take the fat clean off; pour in your Ragoo, and serve it for the first course.  Take care that the cullis of your Ragoo be not too thick, and that there be enough of it.

 

 

To make a Turbot Pie

 

Having prepar’d your pie, lay some fresh Butter over the Bottom of it, over which strew some Salt, pepper, spices and savoury Herbs, lard your Turbot with Anchovies, lay it into the pie, strew another seasoning of the same over it, cover it with Butter, put on the lid, and set it into the oven.  When it is bak’d cut it open, take the fat clean, pour in a Ragoo of Crayfish, Truffles and Mushrooms [which see in Letter C] and serve it hot for the first course.

 

 

To make a Pike Pie

 

Your Pike being gutted and scaled, lard it with lardoons of Eel, and anchovies.  Make a farce with a piece of Carp, some Mushrooms and Truffles, some Chives and Parsley, season’d with pepper, Salt, Spice and Herbs; add a piece of Butter and the Yolks of two raw Eggs; mince all this well together, and put it into the belly of your Pike.  Prepare your pie, cover the bottom of it with fresh Butter, strew over it a seasoning of Salt, Pepper, herbs and Spices, cut your pike in two in the middle, lay it into the pie, season it above as under, and add a bunch of Herbs; cover the whole with slices of fresh Butter, lid your pie, rub it over with Egg, and bake it in the oven; when it is bak’d cut it open, take the fat clean off, pour in a Ragoo of Crayfish Tails, Milts of Fish, Truffles and Mushrooms; so serve it for the first course.

 

 

To make a Gurnet Pie

 

Gut your Gurnets, keep the Livers, and cut off the Heads, lay some fresh Butter in the bottom of your pie.  Make a farce with the flesh of two Gurnets, some Mushrooms, Truffles, parsley, Chives, and fresh Butter, season’d with Salt, pepper, herbs and spices; shred the whole well together, cover your butter at the bottom of your pie with some of this farce; then lay in the Gurnets, putting some of the farce between every two of them; strew over them some Salt, pepper, Savour Herbs and Spices; cover them with Butter, lid your Pie, and set it in the Oven.  Pound the livers of your Gurnets with an Anchovie; take some cullis of Crayfish, mix your pounded Livers well with it, and strain them through a sieve.  Set this over a stove to heat it, and when your Gurnet Pie is bak’d cut it open, take off all the fat, pour in your Crayfish Cullis, and serve it hot for the first course.

 

 

To make a Trout Pie

 

Having gutted and scaled your Trout’s, lard them with Eel and Anchovies; cut off their heads and the ends of their tails; then having raised your pie, lay some fresh butter all over the bottom of it.  Make a farce with some of the flesh of Trout’s, Truffles and Mushrooms, parsley, Chives and fresh Butter, season’d with Salt and pepper, Savoury herbs and Spices; mince all this together and stuff the bellies of your Trout’s with it; then lay them into the pie, having first season’d them Salt, pepper, herbs, and Spices; cover them with fresh Butter, and having lidded your pie, rub it over with Egg, and bake it.  When it is bak’d cut it open, take off the fat, pour in a Ragoo of Crayfish, and serve it hot for the first course.

 

 

To make a Pasty of a Gammon of Bacon to be eaten hot

 

Take a small gammon of Bacon, pare off the sward, take out the middle bone and hock bone; make it very fresh; then lard it with large Lardons well season’d but without Salt; form your pasty of the size of your gammon, but of a common paste; garnish the bottom of it with pounded Bacon, and season it with Pepper, Savoury Herbs and Spices, but still without Salt.  Then put in your Gammon and lay some of the same seasoning over it; cover with bards of Bacon, and lid your pasty.  Let it bake for ten or twelve hours.  Make a Ragoo of Veal-Sweetbreads, Fowls Livers, Cocks-combs, Mushrooms and Truffles; toss them up in a little melted bacon, moisten them with gravy, and set them to simmer over a stove for half an hour; when your Ragoo is enough done, take off all the Fat, and thicken it with a Cullis of Veal and Ham.  When your Pasty is bak’d cut it open take off the fat and pour in your Ragoo; so serve it warm for the first course.  Remember to put no Salt in to your Ragoo, because of the Gammon, which will be Salt enough of itself.

 

Instead of the Ragoo, you may make use of a Carp sauce; for which you will find a Receipt in letter P – Article Pheasant with Carp Sauce

 

Another time you may serve this pasty with a Ragoo of Crayfish which see in Letter C Article Capon with Cray fish.

 

 

To make Petty-Patties of Fish

 

Take the flesh of Carps, Eels and Tenches, and some Mushrooms half stew’d; mince all together with some Parsley and Chives, Salt, pepper, Cloves and Nutmeg, all pounded in a Mortar and as much Butter as Fish.  Make your Petty-Patties of Puff Paste and bake the.

 

To make Petty-Patties of Oysters

 

Take as many Oysters in the Shells as you would make Patties, then mince the Milts and Flesh of Carps, Tenches, pikes and the flesh of Eels;  Season all this with Pepper, salt, pounded Cloves and White-White; wrap up your Oysters in it, of which you put only one in each Patty, with a little fresh butter.  Bake them, and either serve them hot in Hors-d’Oeuvres, or use them as garnishing.

 

 

To make Petty-Patties the Spanish Way

 

Take a piece of fat Bacon, a piece of Veal, and the breast of a Pullet, blanch them all in scalding water; and mince them very small; then season it with all sorts of Spices.  Pound it in a Mortar, adding a little Garlick and some Rocambole; so form your petty patties of Puff Paste, and when they are bak’d. use them either for Garnishings, or serve them as Hors-d’Oeuvres.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

PIG

 

To roast a Pig

 

Take the Liver of the Pig and mince it with blanch’d Bacon, some Capers, Truffles and Mushrooms, one

Anchovie, half a Clove of Garlick and a little savoury herbs: toss all this up in a sauce pan; put it in the belly of your Pig, with an Onion stuck with Cloves, and a bit of butter, sew it up and lay your pig to the fire:  when it begins to warm, base it with oil of Olives, dipping a feather in the oil and rubbing it all over the Pig; this is the best way to make it have a crackling skin, and to keep it from blistering.  When it is roasted, make a sauce only of its own gravy, a little butter, and the Pudding in the belly of the Pig; into which squeeze the juice of a lemon; so serve it hot.

 

 

To boil a Pig

 

Lay it round with the tail in its mouth; set it to boil in a pot of water with a large handful of salt, a Faggot of Thyme, Rosemary, Winter-Savoury and Sweet marjoram; when it is half boil’d take it out of the pot, and strip off the skin; then cut the pig in quarters, and lay them in a stew pan with Prunes, currants and large Mace.  When it is stew’d enough lay it on sippets in the dish and pour upon it all the above ingredients.

 

 

To dress a Pig the French Way

 

Having spitted the Pig, lay it down to the fire, and let is roast till it is thoroughly warm; then cut it off the spit and divide it into about twenty pieces; set them to stew in white-wine and strong broth; season’d with grated Nutmeg, Pepper, two onions minc’d small, some stripp’d thyme, Gravy, Butter, Elder-Vinegar, and two or three Anchovies; when it is enough, dish it in the liquor it was stew’d in, with slic’d Orange and lemon upon it.

 

To dress a pig the German-way

 

Cut the pig in Quarters, and toss them up in melted Bacon; then boil them in good Broth, season’d with an onion stuck with Cloves, a Faggot of Herbs, salt, pepper and Nutmeg; when it is almost boil’d put in half a pint of White-Wine; then toss up in the same melted Bacon in which you toss’d up your Pig,  some Oysters and a little flour, a slice or two of lemon, some Capers and ston’d Olives; when you are ready to serve, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and garnish the brims of your dish with the Brains of the Pig fry’d and fry’ parsley.

 

 

To dress a Pig au Pere-douillet

 

Cut off the head, then cut the Pig in quarters; lard them with large lardoons well season’d.  Lay a napkin in the bottom of a kettle, and put some bards of Bacon upon it; upon them place the four quarters of the pig, and the Head in the Middle of them, season it with Cloves, nutmeg, mace and Cinnamon, with Basil, Bayleaf, Salt, pepper, two Rocamboles, a sliced Onion and Lemon, Carrots, parsnips, parsley and Chives, then cover it with Bards of bacon, and fold the napkin over it.  Cut two or three pounds of a fillet of Veal in slices, with some bards of Bacon, and having laid them in a stewpan cover it and set it over a stove; when it begins to stick as when you make veal-gravy, moisten it with good broth; but take care to keep it from browning; pour it into the kettle, with a bottle of White Wine, and stew your pig in it.  When it is enough, take it off the fire; and if you would serve it cold in plates or little dishes; let it stand till it be cold in its own liquor; then take it out and drain it well, wipe it with a linen cloth to make it as white as you can, and serve it on a napkin laid in a dish, the head in the middle, the four quarters round it, and garnished with green Parsley.  You may likewise serve it hot for a dish of the first course, as follows.  When your Pig is almost ready, take some Veal Sweetbreads, Mushrooms and Truffles; toss them up in a saucepan with a little melted Bacon, moisten them with good gravy, and when they have simmer’d till they are ready, take off the fat, and thicken them with a cullis of Veal and Ham.  Having thus prepared your Ragoo and the Pig being ready, take it up drain it well, lay the head in the middle of the dish the four quarters round it; so pour the Ragoo upon it and serve it hot for a dish of the first course.

 

 

To souse a Pig

 

First cut off the head, then slit the body through the middle, then take out all the bones, put the flesh into warm water, and let it lie in it twelve hours, then roll it up in a collar as you do brawn and boil it in only water till it is tender; then take it up and lay it on an earthen pot with water and Salt;  Having done this, put a quart of white wine into a quart of that liquor, and boil it with three or four bayleaves.  Take the Pig out of the cloth, and when the souse is cold, put it in it; serve it with green Fennel and Vinegar in Saucers, as you do Sturgeon.  It will keep good three months.

 

 

To make a Pig Pie

 

Having flea’d off the skin, cut the Pig into quarters, and season them with Salt and Pepper, beaten fine and mix’d together.  Make a crust of Paste in the form of a pie, and lay in the quarters; shred very small a handful of Parsley and  six sprigs of Winter-Savoury which strew over the Pig.  Then strew over all the Yolks of three or four hard eggs grated, laying upon them here and there a blade of Mace, some bunches of Barberries, and a handful of Currants; spread over all about half a pound of fresh butter, then close up the pie and bake it in an oven moderately heated:  when it has stood three hours in the oven beat up about a pound of Butter, pour it into the pie and scrape some double refin’d sugar over the lid.

 

 

 

TO DRESS pigeons a la Tartare, with cold sauce

 

Singe your pigeons, truss them as for boiling flat them with your cleaver on the dresser, as thin as you can without breaking the back or breast-skin; season then with pepper, Salt, and Cloves as if they were for a pie; dip them in melted butter, drudge them with grated bread and broil them on a gridiron half an hour before you want them, turning them several times, and let them be thoroughly broiled.  You may, if you will broil them on a sheet of writing paper well butter’d to save them from the smoke.  Then provide your sauce as follows:  Mince a spoonful of Parsley very fine, take a Shalot or a bit of Onion, two spoonfuls of Pickles, and one Anchovie, mince all these very fine, apart, then squeeze in a juice of a lemon, add half a spoonful of water, six spoonfuls of Oil, a little Pepper a, little or no Salt, because of your anchovie and season’d Pigeons:  Mix all these ingredients just as you are going to serve, put to them a spoonful of Mustard, and pour this sauce cold on the bottom of your dish or plate; then lay six or eight broil’d Pigeons on the top of it, according to the Bigness of your dish.  So serve it.  It is proper for first course.

 

 

To force Pigeons

 

Make the forc’d meat of Veal, and force the breasts of your Pigeons; then boil them and garnish the brim of the dish with some of the same forc’d meat bak’d.  Let your sauce be stuff of Artichokes, but very small and boil’d tender, strain them and pour some butter, drawn very thick, upon your Pigeons.  So serve them.

 

 

To make a Pupton of Pigeons

 

For a little dish, you may take six Pigeons or more, according to the bigness of your dish, truss them, singe and blanch them; then try them off in a little Butter or Hogs Lard being first larded with small lardoons; then put them a stewing with a little broth or gravy; when they are almost tender; put to them two Sweetbread cut in large bits and fry’d, a handful of Morils and mushrooms well pick’d and wash’d and twelve chestnuts blanch’d put all this together, then take a saucepan with a quarter of a p9ound of butter, a small handful of flour, and two whole onions; brown it over the fire with a pint of gravy, put in your ingredients aforesaid, having first well season’d them with pepper, Salt and Nutmeg.  Let it stew till most of your Ragoo sticks to your meat, then set it off the fire cooling.  Take a pattypan or saucepan and butter the bottom and sides; then cut four or five slices of Bacon as long as your hand, and thin as a shilling; place them at the bottom and sides of your pan at an equal distance, then place all over it a quantity of the forc’d meat, for which you have the receipt in letter F half an inch thick, as high on the sides of your pan as you think will hold your Pigeons and Ragoo.  Then pour in your cold Ragoo and Pigeons, placing them with the breasts to the bottom of the pan, because the bottom side is turn’d up when it goes to the table; then take out your whole Onion, Bacon and Cloves that was in your bowl, and squeeze in a whole Lemon, place your Pigeons with the breasts to the middle of the pan, and your Ragoo betwixt your Pigeons at an equal distance.  Cover it all over with the same forc’d meat an inch thick, and close it well round the sides, smooth it well with your hand and an egg; strew on it a little grated Bread, bake it half an hour before you have occasion to use it; then loose it from the sides of your patty pan or saucepan with your knife, put it on your Mazarine or little dish wherein your intend to serve it, and turn it upside down clearly; if it is well bak’d it will stand upright like a brown loaf.  Squeeze over it an orange, lay round it fry’d parsley; the sauce in the middle.  So serve it for first course.

 

Note:  that we make Puptons of Quails, Partridges, Turtle=-Doves, Buntings and Larks the same way; only adding to the two last some Yolks of hard boil’d Eggs.

 

 

To dress Pigeons au Basilic

 

Blanch your Pigeons well in scalding water, then cut open the backs as little as may be, only to put in them a small Farce, made of raw Bacon, and the Livers of your Pigeons minc’d very small, with a little Parsley, Basil and Chive, all very well seasoned.  When they are farc’d, boil them in a little pot, in good broth, with an Onion stuck with Cloves, a little Verjuice and Salt; when they are boil’d take them up, and having got ready some beaten Eggs, rowl your Pigeons in it, and at the same time in crumbs of Bread, with which they must be all over covered very thick.  After you have done so to all of them, Heat some Hogs Lard very hot, then put in your Pigeons, and fry them till they are very brown; then take them up and serve them, garnish’d with fry’d  Parsley.

 

 

To dress Pigeons au Soleil

 

Take squab Pigeons and stew them a  la Braise.  Get ready a farce composed of the flesh of all sorts of fowls, minc’d very small, and then pounded, to a paste.  Wrap up your Pigeons in this farce, so that nothing of them may be seen but the heads.  Then dip them in beaten Eggs, and drudge them with half flour, half crumbs of Bread; fry them till they are brown.  Lay a napkin in a dish, place your Pigeons upon it and lay some fry’d Parsley between them; so serve them.

 

 

To dress Pigeons with Fennel

 

Heat them a little before the fire to blanch them.  Take the Livers, with Bacon, Chives, parsley and a little green Fennel mince them all together and season them well; stuff the bodies of your Pigeons with it; roast them, and serve them with a Ragoo.

 

 

To dress pigeons a la Braise

 

Take the largest you can get, and lard them with great Lardons well season’d:  make a farce somewhat thick, and farce the bodies of them, stew them a la Braise as you do many other things; when they are enough, take off the fat, dish them up and pour on them a Ragoo of Sweetbread and Truffles, so serve them.

 

 

To dress Pigeons en compote

 

Your Pigeons being pull’d and drawn, truss the handsomely, the legs in the bodies, and parboil them; then lard them with large Lardons, season’d with Salt, herbs, Pepper, spices, minced chives and Parsley, and stew the a la Braise:  While they are stewing, make a Ragoo of Cockscombs, Fowls Livers, Truffles, and Mushrooms tossing them up in a little melted Bacon; then moisten your Ragoo with gravy, set it to simmer over a gentle fire, take off the fat, and thicken it with a Cullis of Veal and Ham.  Take up your Pigeons and drain them; then put them into the Ragoo, and then simmer in it to give them the taste of it; lay them in a dish pour the Ragoo upon them, and serve them for the first course.

 

 

To dress Pigeons en Compote with White Sauce

 

Your Pigeons being scalded, drawn, truss’d and blanch’d put them into a stewpan, with a little melted bacon, a bunch of Herbs, an Onion stuck with Cloves, Veal Sweetbreads, Cockscombs, Mushrooms and Truffles, the whole season’d with Salt and Pepper; toss them up over a stove; put in a little flour, and give them three or four turns; put to them some good Broth, and make them simmer in it over a gentle fire; when they are enough done, take off the fat, and thicken them with a white cullis;  You will find the way of making it in Letter C.  But if you have no Cullis make use, instead of it of the Yolk of two or three Eggs beaten up in Cream, with a little shred Parsley.  So dish them up and serve them for first course.

 

 

To boil Pigeons

 

Stuff them with Sweet Herbs, chop't Bacon, grated bread, a little Butter, Spice and the Yolk of an Egg.  Then boil them in strong broth and white Wine vinegar, into which put some mace, Salt, Nutmeg, minced Parsley, and drawn Butter.  Garnish the dish with sliced Lemmon and Barberries.

 

 

To broil Pigeons

 

Slit them down the back, and sprinkle them with Salt and Pepper.  Let them broil gently, and turn them often on the gridiron; and while they are broiling keep basting them with red Wine. Let the Sauce be fresh Butter, a little Shalot, and the Juice of Lemon.  So serve them up hot.

 

 

Roasted pigeons and Bacon

 

Your Pigeons being got ready for roasting, thrust your finger between the flesh and the skin of the Breast.  Scrape some Bacon; season it with pepper, Savoury Herbs, and a little Spice; add to it some shred Parsley, some Chives, one minced Mushroom and a Truffle;  mix all these well together and farce the Breasts of your Pigeons with it between the skin and the flesh; put them on the spit wrap them up in thin slices of Veal, bards of bacon and sheets of paper, and lay them down to the fire.  Make a Ragoo as follows:: Cut some Ham of Bacon in thin slices, and having beat them, lay them in the bottom of a stewpan, cover it, and set it on the stove to simmer over a gentle fire; when it begins to stick, put to it a little melted Bacon, a pinch of flour, and give it seven or eight turns over the stove; moisten it with Gravy without Salt, season it with pepper and a bunch of herbs, cover it close and let is simmer over a slack fire.  When you think it is done enough, take off the Fat, and thicken it with a Cullis of Veal and Ham.  When the Pigeons are roasted, take off the bards from them, and lay them in a dish, garnish them with the slices of Ham, and pour the Liquor of the Ragoo upon them.  Serve them for the first course.

 

 

Pigeons farced and roasted

 

Loosen the skin of the breasts with your finger; then take the Livers of your Pigeons, a piece of the lean of a Ham of Bacon, together with some Mushrooms and Truffles; season all this with Pepper, herbs and Spices, add as much of the fat of Bacon as you think convenient, and likewise a little Parsley and Chives.  Mince it all together and pound it in a mortar with the Yolks of two raw Eggs. Then farce your Pigeons with this farce; and having spitted them, wrap them up in thin slices of Veal, bards of Bacon, and sheets of paper, and lay them to the fire; when they are roasted, take off the bards, lay them handsomely in a dish; and pour upon them a cullis of Veal and Ham; so serve them for the first course.

 

 

To dress Pigeons with Truffles

 

Farce them as in the last Receipt, then make a Ragoo of Truffles as follows:  Peel, wash and cut them in slices; put them into a stewpan with some Veal Gravy, and make them simmer in it over a little fire; when they are stew’d thicken them with a Cullis of Veal and Ham.  Your Pigeons being roasted, take off the bards, lay them in a dish, and pour on them the Ragoo of Truffles.  Serve them for the first course.

 

Pigeons with Morils and Mushrooms are dress’d and served in the same manner.

 

 

To make a Fricassee of Pigeons in their Blood

 

Take some Pigeons out of the Dove-House, bleed them and save the blood; into which squeeze a Lemon to keep it from changing, scald your Pigeons, draw them and cut them in Halves or Quarters; put them into a stewpan, season them with Salt, pepper and a bunch of Sweet Herbs; put in some Mushrooms, Truffles, Cocks-combs, Veal or Lamb Sweetbreads, and Artichoke-Bottoms; toss up all this together in a little melted Bacon, put in a quarter of a spoonful of flour, moisten it with some Gravy and make it simmer over a gentle fire;  When it is done enough, take off the fat and thicken it with a Cullis of Veal and Ham.  Stain the Blood through a sieve; beat up in it the Yolk of an Egg and put amongst it a little minced Parsley.  When you are ready to serve, pour in the Blood among the Fricassee, keeping it always moving, and taking care not to let it boil.  Serve it in plates or little dishes for a dish of the first course.

 

 

To make a Fricassee of Pigeons with brown sauce

 

The Pigeons being either pick’d or scalded, draw them, and cut them in quarters; put them into a saucepan with some melted Bacon, a Bunch of Herbs, an Onion stuck with Cloves, Salt, Pepper and a little shred Parsley; add some Mushrooms, Truffles, Cocks-combs, and Veal-Sweetbreads, toss up all this over a stove, drudge it with a pinch of flour, put in some gravy, and let it stew over a gentle fire; when it is enough, take off all the fat, thicken your Fricassee with a Cullis of Veal and Ham; then dish it up and serve it.

 

 

To make a Fricassee of Pigeons with white sauce

 

Your Pigeons being scalded and drawn, cut them in quarters, put them into a stewpan with a little melted Bacon, some Cocks-combs, sweetbreads, Mushrooms and Truffles a bunch of Herbs, an Onion stuck with Cloves, Pepper, Salt, and a little minced Parsley.  Having toss’d them up over a stove, drudge them with flour, put to them a little Broth without gravy, and let them simmer over a gentle Fire, when they are enough take off the Fat, put in a white Cullis, or else three or four Eggs beaten up  in a Cream, with a little minced Parsley.  So dish it up and serve it for first Course.

 

 

To dress Pigeons a la Sainte-Menehout

 

Take large Pigeons, and when they are pull’d drawn and truss’d cut them in two, and lard them with large lardoons, well seasoned.   Garnish the bottom of a pot with Bards of Bacon, and slices of Veal or Beef, seasoned with Salt, pepper, Savoury herbs, spices, shred Chives and Parsley, sliced onion and Carrot.  Lay in your Pigeons, season them above as under, lay over them slices of Veal and Bards of Bacon, cover the pot with it own cover and set your Pigeons to stew with fire over and under the pot.  When they are half ready, moisten them with a spoonful or two of broth, a pint of Milk, so continue to stew them till they are ready; then take them off, let them stand in their own Liquor till they are cold, then take them up and drain them.  If you would serve them broil’d, dip them in the fat in which they were stewed, drudge them well with very small crumbs of white Bread, then broil them and when they are ready, serve them with a Ramolade made of Oil, a little Mustard, some Anchovies, Capers, pepper and Salt,  mix’d all together with a little shred Chives and Parsley; into all which squeeze the juice of a Lemon, and serve them.  But if you would fry them, then when they are drain’d dip them in beaten Eggs, drudge them with crumbs of Bread as before, and fry them in Hogs Lard till they are of a fine brown colour, then serve them hot on a clean napkin.  We likewise sometimes serve them cold without either frying or broiling them; but if any of these ways, always in plates or little dishes.

 

Note: That we dress Pullets and chickens in the same manner.

 

 

To dress Pigeons with crayfish

 

Scald, draw and truss your Pigeons; put them into a stewpan with a little melted Bacon, an onion, a bunch of herbs, some Cocks-combs, veal-Sweetbreads, mushrooms and Truffles, seasoned with Salt and Pepper; when you have toss’d them up, drudge them with flour, moisten them with Broth and Veal Gravy, and let it stew over a gentle fire; then take off all the fat, put to them some tails of Crayfish, add some Crayfish Cullis, set them over the fire, but take care that the Cullis do not boil, for fear it should turn.  Lay your pigeons in a dish, and the garnishings that is to say, the Cocks-combs, Sweetbreads, etc between them; pour the Ragoo on your Pigeons and serve them for the first Course.

 

 

 

To dress Pigeons en Fricandeaux

 

Let them be large Pigeons, and after they are pull’d drawn and truss’d with the legs in the bodies, cut them in two and lard them with small lardoons.  Lay them into a stewpan, the larded side down most, with a ladleful or two of Broth, and two whole Leeks;  cover the stewpan and set them to simmer over a gentle fire; when they are stewed enough, set them on a stove with a brisk fire under them, to consume what remains of the Broth;, and take Notice when they are come to a fine brown colour; then take them up and lay them in a dish; take all the fat that is left in the stewpan, into which put some Veal-Gravey and good broth, to loosen what sticks to the bottom of it, and set it a minute over the stove, having put in some whole grains of pepper.  Then pour it on your Pigeons, and serve them in plates or little dishes.

 

 

To make a Surtout of roasted Pigeons

 

Take the largest Pigeons you can get; then make a farce of raw Bacon and boil’d Ham, some Truffles and Mushrooms, some Parsley and Chives, a very little Garlick, and some Veal-Sweetbreads, all well season’d, shredded very small, and bound together with the Yolks of two Eggs.  Farce the bellies of your Pigeons with this Farce, and likewise between the skin and flesh.  Take some large larded Fricandeaux and put one on the breast of each Pigeon, bind them about with packthread, wrap them up in paper, and roast them.  Prepare a good Ragoo, and when your Pigeons are roasted, take off the paper, lay them in a dish, with the Fricandeaux on the breasts of them, pour the Ragoo upon them and serve them.

 

 

 

To dress a Pike Cabilo, the Dutch Way

 

Let is be a large Pike, scale it, take out the guts, wash it clean, and cut off its head, then cut it in slices with a sharp knife, about a little inch thick; if you can cut the joint of the back, it will be much easier cut.  When you come within a span of the tail, cut it through the bone, and leave the fish whole on the underside, that it may hang together; then throw it all into a pan of cold water.  If your fish is new, it will crimp, and eat as hard as the kernel of a nut.  It is admir’d by those that have travel’d in Holland.  Boil it in good store of water, and Salt it pretty high, when it boils up, pour in a quarter of a pint of Vinegar, skim it very clean; split the head in two, put it a boiling with the tail, five or six minutes; before you put in your slices and Milt, take the gall out of it; boil your slices well for a quarter of an hour; then take them up and drain them; place head and tail in the middle of your dish, laying the slices around with some sippets under.  In Holland, the sauce is only oil’d Butter, melted gently over the fire, and stirr’d about with a ladle, and so pour’d over the Fish, for their Butter is as thick oil’d, as ours is drawn up.  But for the Queen, we draw up our Butter.  A pound of Butter, with a spoonful of Water, drawn up, is as thick as a Cream,  Squeeze in a Lemon, so serve it hot.  Let your garnishing be a little Parsley pick’d fine and wash’d and laid round. 

 

We likewise dress Salmon in the same manner, but it will take more Boiling, and we use no Vinegar in boiling it.  We also dress fresh Cods so, when they are new.  When you have fresh Cods, boil the Liver with them, and take care you do not over-boil your slices; for they will be boil’d as soon as your Pike, or rather sooner; but the head and Liver will take half an hour, and the tail little less.  But for this, they take only half grown Cods.  Let your sauce be the same as for the Pike, and serve it in like manner.

 

 

To dress a Pike with Oysters

 

After having scaled, gutted, and washed it clean, cut it in pieces, and put them into a stewpan with White Wine, parsley, Chives, Mushrooms and Truffles, all of them hash’d together, with Salt, pepper and Butter, and set it to stew over a stove.  Blanch off some Oysters in Water and a little Verjuice; then throw them with their own Liquor into the stewpan, but not before the Pike is almost stewed.  Let your garnishing be only sliced Lemon.  So serve it for the first course.

 

 

To dress a very large Pike

 

Cut it in four pieces; dress the Joll au Court bouillon; serve one of the middle pieces with a white sauce; the other in slices, or with a Ragoo; and the Tail fry’d with Caper-Sauce; lay all of it in a great dish; and add a Ragoo of Pikes Livers and Milts of Carps.

 

 

To dress a Pike the German Way

 

Gut it and wash it very clean, then slit it in two close by the bone, and half boil it in water; then take it out and scale it; put it into a stewpan with White Wine minced Capers, Savour Herbs, Anchovies and Mushrooms cut very small, as likewise some Morils and Truffles.  Make it all boil very softly for fear the Pike should break; put in a piece of Butter, and a little grated Cheese; when it has stew’d till the sauce is grown thick, lay it handsomely in a dish and serve it.

 

 

To marinate a Pike

 

Having gutted and scaled it, lay it to marinate tow hours in verjuice, Salt, pepper, Chives, bayleaves and Juice of Lemon; then drudge it with flour and fry it; or else you may bake it in a pattypan, after having first dip’d it in melted butter, and drudg’d it with Salt, and the crum and chippings of Bread sifted through a Sieve; when it is bak’d brown, serve it with a sauce under it, made of clarified Butter, Anchovies melted and strained through a Sieve, the Juice of an orange, Capers, Salt and Pepper.  Let your garnishing be fry’d parsley; or Pikes Livers, or Milts of Carps fry’d.

 

 

To dress a Pike with white Sauce

 

Boil it in half wine, half water, with Salt, pepper and a fagot of herbs.  Make a white sauce as follows:  take some Butter, and put it into a saucepan with a little flour, two minced anchovies, three or four whole chives, a slice or two of Lemon, some Capers, Salt, pepper and Nutmeg, to which add a drop of Vinegar and a little water; when your Pike is boil’d and you are ready to serve, turn your sauce over a stove till it be grown thick, then pour it on your fish and serve it.  This white sauce serves for all sorts of fish dress’d in the same manner.

 

 

To dress a Pike au Court-bouillon

 

Lay your Pike in a dish and throw on it some vinegar and Salt, boiling hot.  Then set over the fir some Verjuice, White Wine, Salt, pepper, Cloves, Nutmeg, bayleaf, onions and slices of lemons.  Season your Pike with Salt, pepper, onions, Bayleaves, Cloves and Savoury herbs, put a great piece of Butter in the Belly of it, wrap it up in a napkin, and when your liquor boils very fast, put in your pike; when it is boil’d serve it on a clean napkin, and garnish’d only with Parsley.  It is proper for the first course.

 

 

To farce Pikes

 

Scale the Pikes and cut out the bone by the back, so as to leave the Head and Tail hanging, by the skin; but take the flesh with a piece of Eel or Carp; to which put some Mushrooms, Chives and Parsley; season it with Salt, pepper and Nutmeg; and shred it all together; then pound in a mortar, a dozen Coriander-Seeds, with a couple of cloves, put to them your hash’d fish, with the quantity of two thirds of good Butter, and pound the whole well together; add to it the bigness of an Egg of the Crumb of Bread, which you must first set to simmer over a stove in Cream, and put it into the Farce with the Yolks of four raw Eggs, and mix all together in the mortar.  Then farce your Pikes with it, and having sew’d them u0p put them into a stewpan, just long enough for them to lie at full length.  Toss up some flour and butter and brown it, then put to it half Fish broth, half White Wine and pour it in among your Pikes; and season them with Onions, Parsley, Salt, pepper, Cloves and Savoury Herbs; so let them but just simmer over a slack fire, for fear of breaking them.  Prepare a Ragoo of Mushrooms, the Tails of Crayfish, Truffles, Asparagus tops when in season, and Artichoke bottoms.  Toss up all together in a little fresh Butter, moisten them with Fish broth; and thicken your Ragoo with a crayfish or other good Cullis.  When you are ready to serve, take up your Pikes and lay them in a dish to drain; then place them in the dish you intend to serve them in, pour the Ragoo upon them, and serve them hot.  Observe that when you make use of Asparagus tops, you must first blanch them, hut do not put them into your Ragoo till the moment before you are going to serve, for fear they should be too much done.  Observe too, that Carps, Tenches and Trout’s are dress’d in the same manner.

 

 

To bake farced Pikes

 

Your Pikes being arced as in the last Receipt, rub them over with melted Butter lay them in a silver dish or a patty pan with some Slices of Onion, whole Chives, and a little shredded parsley; pour on them a little melted Butter, drudge them well with very fine crumbs of white Bread, set them in the oven and bake them till they are brown then either serve them dry on a clean napkin laid in a dish or else with a sharp sauce.

 

 

To stew Pikes

 

Scale them and lard them with Eel; stew them in clarify’d Butter Verjuice, Salt, pepper, Nutmeg, Cloves, a bunch of Savoury herbs, Bayleaf, Basil and sliced Lemon.  Prepare a Ragoo of Mushrooms, toss them up in Butter, moisten them with Fish broth, and thicken your ragoo with a good Cullis; when you have dish’d up your Pikes, pour it upon them and serve them.

 

 

To fry Pikes with Anchovy Sauce

 

Open your Pikes by the belly and score them with a knife; lay them to marinate in Vinegar, with Salt, Pepper, Chives and Bayleaf.  Drudge them well with flour before you fry them, and let your sauce be Anchovies melted in oil’d butter; strain it through a Sieve; add the juice of an Orange, some Capers and white Pepper.

 

 

To roast a Pike

 

Scale it and score it slightly; lard it with middling lardoons of Eel; season it with Salt, pepper, Nutmeg, Chives and Savour Herbs; fasten it to the spit at its whole length and keep basting it with Butter, White Wine, vinegar and Juice of Lemon in which, when your Pike is roasted, melt some Anchovies, strain it through a Sieve, with a little Cullis, into a saucepan, toss up some Oysters in it, Put in some Capers and white Pepper so serve your Pike with this sauce.

 

 

Another way to roast a Pike

 

Having scaled and gutted it, make a farce of the flesh and Milts of Carps, of the flesh of Eels, Pikes, Tenches, and some Savoury Herbs; shred all these together with Mushrooms, Truffles, Asparagus tops, and some Yolks of hard Eggs; season all this with Salt, pepper, Cloves, Nutmeg, put in a little white wine, in which have first infus’d a little Onion to make it hold together, add to it some little morsels of fresh Butter; then farce the body of your Pike with it and sew it up.  After which spit your Pike, wrap a butter’d sheet of paper round it, and baste it with Verjuice and Water; when it is almost roasted, take off the paper, that the Pike may grow brown, serve it either dry or with the following sauce;  take two Anchovies, some Capers, pepper, Salt and a little Cullis, heat all this together pour it in the dish and lay your Pike upon it.

 

 

To roast a Pike for Flesh Days

 

After having scaled and gutted it, blanch it in lukewarm water; lard it with middling Lardons, lay it down to the fire, baste it as in the last Receipt, and serve it with the same sauce.  Let your garnishing be larded Veal Sweetbreads, and farced Mushrooms.

 

 

To dress Pikes a la Sauce Robert

 

After having gutted and scaled them, slit them, and cut them in four pieces; score them, and lay them to marinate in Vinegar with pepper, Salt, Onions, Slices of Lemon, Basil, and Bayleaves.  When they have laid an hour, take them out, lay them on a linen cloth and wipe them dry; then drudge them with flour, and fry them.  Make your Sauce-Robert as follows; put a piece of Butter into a saucepan and set it over a stove; cut some Onions in dice, fry them till they are brown in your Butter, moisten them with Fish broth, let them stew in it, and when they are enough, take off all the fat, and thicken them with a good Cullis; lay your Pikes into your sauce and let them simmer in it over live embers.  When you are ready to serve, lay your Pikes handsomely in a dish, and before you pour your sauce upon them, set it gain over a stove, and put in a little Mustard, and a drop of Vinegar then pour it on your Pikes and serve them hot.  Those who have not the convenience of making cullises, need only make use of a little flour when the Onion is almost brown, before the moisten it, that the flour may have a little time to fry.

 

Note:  The marinade above mentioned serves us for all sorts of fresh water fish, that we fry.

 

 

 

 

To stew Plaice

 

After having gutted and wash’d them well, cut off the end of the tails and heads; put the Plaice into a stewpan with white Wine, some Mushrooms, Truffles, Morils, Parsley, Chives, Thyme, the Milts, and a morsel of Butter, work’d up with flour; stir and turn them gently for fear of breaking them.  When they are done enough, serve them with a white sauce, and let your garnishing be as for other fish.

 

To fry Plaice, we only drudge them with flour, fry them brown, and serve them with fry’d Parsley.  We likewise broil them on a gridiron and serve them with a white sauce.

 

 

To dress Plaice au Court-bouillon, with a Crayfish Cullis

 

The Plaice being gutted, wash’d and well dry’d, lay them in a stewpan, season them with Salt, Pepper, Onion, sliced Lemon, Bayleaf, Basil, Chives, Parsley, a little White Wine and Vinegar; then set them a doing over a stove; when they are enough, take them off, and let them stand in the Liquor to take the relish of it.  Make a sauce with fresh Butter, a couple of Anchovies, two whole Chives, season’d with Salt, pepper and Nutmeg; put in a pinch of Flour, and a little vinegar and Water; turn the sauce over the stove, and when it is thicken’d, put in as much Crayfish Cullis, as will give it the same colour.  Take up your Plaice out of their Court bouillon, and having drain’d them well, lay them in a dish, pour the sauce upon them, and serve them for the first course.

 

To dress Plaice with Anchovies and Caper-Sauce

 

Your Plaice are dress’d as in the last Receipt.  Put into a saucepan some fresh Butter, two Anchovies, some Capers, some whole Chives, and season it with Salt, Pepper and Nutmeg; then add a pinch of flour, and a little Vinegar and Water; keep turning the sauce over a stove, and when it is ready, take your Plaice out of the Court-bouillon, drain them well, lay them in a dish and pour your sauce upon them.

 

 

To bake Plaice

 

 Rub a pastypan or a silver dish with fresh butter, strew it over with a seasoning of Salt, pepper, Nutmeg a little minced Parsley and Savoury Herbs, and three or four whole Chives.  Cut off the end of the Heads and Tails of your Plaice, lay them in the dish or pasty pan and pour upon them a glass of Champaign or White Wine: strew over them some Salt and Pepper, sprinkle them with melted Butter, drudge them well with bread crumm’d very fine, and set them in the oven.  When they are bak’d and of a fine brown colour, take them out; pour some Cullis of Crayfish or an Anchovy Sauce into a dish; have a care not to break your Plaice as you take them out of the pastypan, lay them in the dish with your sauce, and serve them warm.

 

 

 

To collar and souce PORK

 

Take a piece out of the side, and lay it twelve hours in water; squeeze out the Blood, and then season it with Sage, parsley, Thyme and sweet Marjoram; then cut some slices of a leg of Veal, and hack them with a knife, season them with Salt, Pepper, Nutmeg and Mace; wash the Pork on the inside with Yolks of Eggs and do the like to the Veal on the outside, and lay it on the Park; strew over it the remaining part of the seasoning, roll it up hard into a collar, bind it well with tape; then set it to boil, and when it is enough, souce it in the same liquor with beaten Pepper, Ginger, and a little Vinegar.  When you serve it, stick the Pork with Bayleaves or Rosemary and flowers; and garnish the dish with Sage and Flowers.

 

 

To pot Pork

 

Cut a leg of Pork in pieces, and pound them well in a mortar; then season it with Salt and Pepper very well; shred small some rosemary and Sage, and mix it with the Meat; then put it into a pot with a pound of Butter, and so bake it; when you haven it out of the oven, drain it well from the Gravy, and press it close down in a dry pot.  Then skim off all the Butter from the Gravy, and clarify as much butter more as will cover the meat an inch thick in the Pot, which must be covered with wet paper, and keep in a cool place.

 

To make a Pork Pie

 

Having taken the skin off the Pork, cut it into steaks, and season it pretty well with Salt beaten Pepper, and some sliced Nutmeg.  Put in some Pippins cut in small pieces, as many as you think convenient, and sweeten the whole with Sugar and half a pint of White Wine, then cover your pie and bake it.

 

 

To do a Leg of Pork Ham Fashion

 

It must be cut in the shape of a Ham.  Take common Salt and Bay Salt, of each a quart, and heat it very hot; then mix with it a pound of coarse Sugar and an ounce of Salt petre pounded very fine; with these rub the Pork very well, and cove it all over with what is left; let it lie for three days, then turn it every day for a fortnight; then take it out and smoke it in the manner of Neats Tongues.  Remember to put on the Salt as hot as you can.

 

 

To pickle Pork

 

Having taken out the bones, cut it into piece of a size to lie handsomely in the tub or pan you intend to pickle it in; then rub every piece well with Salt-petre; then take common Salt and Bay Salt, of the first double the quantity as of the last, and rub every piece with it very well, lay Salt in the bottom of the Vessel; lay the pieces one upon another as close as you can, covering every Piece over with Salt, and filling up the hollow places on the sides with Salt likewise and as the Salt melts on the Top, strew on more thus order’d it will keep a great while.

 

 

 

To make Marrow-Pudding in skins, the English way

 

Take the crumb of four French Rolls, and half a pound of course Bisket; cut the French Rolls in slices, and put them in an earthen pan or saucepan; set over the fire two quarts of Milk, make it Blood-warm, pour it over your Bread, and cover it close up till it is cold, then rub your Bread and Milk through a Colander with a wooden ladle.  Take a pound of marrow and mince it, put to it five eggs beaten up very fine, and strained through a strainer or cloth, to keep out the tread; then mix the Marrow, beaten Eggs and Bread all together.  Season the whole with Sugar, according to your discretion, as you do another pudding; scrape in half a Nutmeg; add two or three spoonfuls of rose-water, a quarter of a pound of Almonds, beaten as fine as a Paste in a marble Mortar, and a little Salt; mix all these ingredients very fine together; then have small Ox Guts, or Hogs Guts, very well clean’d and the insides turn’d out.  Make a small funnel that will hold a quarter of a pint, with a tail about five inches long, all of a wideness, so that it can easily go into the guts; the mouth of the funnel must not be above two inches deep, because you must thrust your meat through with your thumb into the guts.  Cut the guts a yard long, and fill them with your ingredients; tie them in span-long, the two ends of that span-long ty’d together; then tie in the middle of the spans to the ends so that you will have two puddings in each piece.  Take care to keep them lank, not filling ‘em too full; put them over the fire in a large brass dish of water, and boil them gently a quarter of an hour, turning them with your skimmer that the marrow rise not to one side; then take them out, lay them on a colander till cold, but turn them in the cooling.  In winter they will keep a week or more, but in the summer not above three or four days, therefore take care to make your quantity according to your discretion of occasion.  About an hour before you have occasion for them, place them in a saucepan with a little butter, put them over the fire till they fry as yellow or gold, when one side is yellow turn the other down or you may put them in the mouth of an oven.  When you serve, cut them asunder.  They are proper for a little dish or plate for second course or to garnish a boil’d Pudding, or Fricassee of Chickens for the first course.

 

 

To make Blood-Puddings, the English Way

 

Take a quart or chopin of whole Oatmeal, boil it over the fire in a quart of Milk, and let it stand till next morning to swell; then put to it a pound and half of Beef Suet, shred; season it moderately with pepper and Salt; take a small handful of Penny-royal, a small handful of Parsley, and a little Thyme, wash and mince all these very fine, and put them to your Oatmeal, with three pints of Hogs or Sheep’s Blood, and a pint of Cream; mix all these Ingredients together, and warm them a little over the fire, that they may fill the easier into the guts; tie them up as you did your Marrow Puddings in the above Receipt, and boil and fry them in the same way before you serve them; you may mix half these and half Marrow Puddings for a plate or dish for second course.

 

 

To make a Neats-foot Pudding

 

Your Neats Feet being tender boil’d, take them from the Bones, and mince them very small with half as much Suet as Feet; mix them together with Sugar, Cinnamon and Salt, a quarter of a pound of Citron and Orange peel, minc’d very fine; then break six or eight Eggs, Yolks and Whites; take two handfuls of grated Bread, and as many currants as you think convenient.  Mix all these together, butter the Bag, tie it u0p, and boil it two hours.  Then serve it with a Sweet Sauce.

 

 

To make a Bread-Pudding

 

Take a quart of Cream, set it over the fire to boil; put into it a blade or two of Mace, eight cloves, a Bit of Cinnamon, with a little Nutmeg, Salt and Sugar; when it has boil’d have ready the crusts of two French Rolls cut in slices, and put into it, and let it stand till it is cold; then drain all the cream that the Bread has not soak’d and rub it through your colander, put in six Eggs, taking out the Whites; then stir it all together well, butter your dish, and put it in tying it over with a cloth and pack thread.  Little more than an hour will boil it.  So serve it with drawn Butter.

 

 

 

 

 

 

To make a Rice Pudding

 

Blanch the Rice in Water, then boil it in Milk, Sugar, Cinnamon, and Salt till it is very thick; let it stand till it be cold, and add to it Eggs according to the Rice; but if it to be to bake, half of the Whites will do put in some Currants and Raisins, and a little melted Butter.  Be sure if you bake or boil it, forget not Suet or dic’d marrow. 

 

 

To make a Carot-Pudding

 

Make it as you do another Pudding, only instead of suet, put grated Carots, and either bake it or boil it.

 

 

To make an Orange-Pudding

 

Take the peel of six Oranges, peel’d very fine from the white, boil them very tender, shifting the water once or twice; when they are boil’d tender, bet them in a Mortar very fine; then take a quarter of a pound of Naples Bisket, boil them up in some Cream, and rub it through your Colander; then put you peel to it with the yolks of six Eggs, and four whites.  Season it with Nutmeg, Salt and Sugar;  if there be any wanting, put in some marrow, minc’d very fine.  So sheet a pan and bake it.

 

 

To make a Pudding-Cake

 

Take a pound of Suet minc’d very fine, and as much flour, four Eggs and a piece of Butter; mix these well together; season it with Nutmeg, Sugar, Cinnamon, a little Rose-water and Salt.  Work it into a paste with Cream, and make it up like a Cake.  So butter your dish and bake it.

 

 

To make Turkey or Capon-Puddings

 

Take a roasted Turkey, or Capon, or both; according to the quantity of Puddings you would make.  Cut out the breasts, and mince them very small; then cut some Hogs Fat very thin, and put all this into a saucepan with two Onions roasted and then pounded in a mortar; a little Savoury herbs, and some shred Parsley; season all this with the usual Spices, and add to it the whites of two or three Eggs, beaten.  Next take a quart of Milk, and having beaten up in it the Yolks of a Dozen eggs, set it over a stove, and boil it to a Cream, taking care that it do not curdle; then mix the whole together, and warm it over the fire.  So put it into guts in the same manner as is directed in the Receipt for Marrow Puddings, then blanch tem off in water and Milk with some slic’d Onion amongst it.  When you would serve them, lay a sheet of paper, rubb’d over with Hog’s Lard or other Grease, upon a gridiron, and the Puddings u0pon the paper; so broil them over a slack fire, for fear they would break.  Serve them hot in plates or little dishes.

 

 

 

To make Puddings of Fowls Livers

 

Mince very small a quarter of a pound of Hogs Fat, one pound of Fowls Livers, and one Pound of the flesh of Capon; season all this with Savoury Herbs, Chives, Salt, Pepper, grated Nutmeg, pounded Cloves and Cinnamon; add to it the Yolks of six raw Eggs and a quart of Cream, or rather more, as you see occasion.  Put it into cuts as in the Receipt for Marrow Puddings; then boil your Liver Puddings in milk with some Salt and slic’d lemon.  Broil them as in the last Receipt, and serve them with the juice of Orange.

 

 

To make Calfs Liver Puddings

 

Mince a Calf’s Liver and pound it in a mortar, together with a third part as much of Hog’s fat as Liver; some of which cut also in small dice.  Season these ingredients as in the last Receipt and put them into guts in the manner above directed.  Then boil your Puddings in White Wine with Salt and Bayleaves over a slack fire; let them cool in the liquor in which they are boil’d and when you would use them, broil and serve them as in the last Receipt.

 

Note: That instead of Hogs Guts, we often use those of Sheep, Calves or Lambs.

 

 

 

To dress  pullets in Bladders with Oysters

 

Take as many Pullets as will serve for your dish, raise up the skin of them for your ingredients you farce them with; then take some Chestnuts, a quart of  Oysters, some hard Eggs and Marrow; season all this well and mix it together, then put it between the skin and flesh of your Fowls, and some in the Bellies.  Take some Bladders, clean them very well, put your Pullets in them, and then tie them up.  You may take out the flesh of the breasts of the Pullets, and make a forc’d Meat of it; and farce them with it again.  For sauce to pour over them, make a Fricassee of Oysters, garnish’s with

Petty-Patties and hash’d Pullet; bind your ingredients with raw Yolks of Eggs and some grated Bread.  The Pullets in Bladders will take two hours and a half boiling.

 

 

Pullets farced and roasted

 

Take the breast of a roasted Pullet, some Veal Sweetbreads, a bit of the lean of a Ham, a little fat Bacon, a piece of a fillet of Veal blanch’d, some Mushrooms, a little Parsley and Chives; season all these Ingredients with Salt, pepper, Savoury Herbs, and spices, and hash them all well together; when you have done this, take the Yolks of two raw eggs, as big as an Egg of the Crumb of Bread, soak’d in Cream, add them to your other ingredients, and pound all together in a mortar; then stuff the bodies of your Pullets with this Farce, and tie them at both ends to keep it in; then parboil them, wrap them up in Bards of Bacon, and lay them down to roast at a slack fire.  Meanwhile make a hash’d sauce in the following manner.  Put in a saucepan a little melted Bacon, some Chives, parsley, Mushrooms and Truffles, all hash’d; toss up all together a moment over a stove, moisten it with Veal Gravy, and let it simmer over a gentle fire.  When it is done enough, take off all the fat, and bind it with cullis of Veal and Bacon, and some essence of Ham.  When your Pullets are roasted, take them up untie them and take off the Bards of bacon; lay them in a dish, pour your Ragoo upon them, and serve them for first course.

 

 

Farced Pullets with Cream

 

Your pullets being pick’d and drawn, parboil them, bard them and roast them.  When they are roasted, cut the flesh off the breasts, and take out the breastbone; then take a piece of a boil’d ham, a little blanched bacon, a little Beef Suet, some Parsley, Chives and Mushrooms, season all this with Salt, pepper, Savoury herbs, and Spices; then hast it all together with the breasts of the Pullets, and having added to it the Yolks of four raw Eggs, and the crumb of a French Roll, boil’d in Cream, pound the whole together in a mortar; when it is well pounded lay the farce in the breasts of your Pullets; beat an Egg and with a knife dep’t in it, smooth over the farce on the Pullets, drudge them well with bread crumm’d very fine; lay them in a silver dish or pasty pan, and bake them in an oven or under a baking cover; when they are bak’d and well brown’d lay them in a dish and serve them for the first course.

 

 

To dress Pullets a la Sainte-Menehout

 

Truss the legs in the body, slit them along the back, spread them open on a table, beat them and take out the thigh bones.  Take a pound and half of Veal, cut it in slices, lay it in a stew pan of a convenient size to hold your Pullets; cover it and set it over a stove; when it begins to cleave to the stewpan, put in a little flour, and keep moving your pan over the fire to brown it, moisten it with as much broth as is necessary to stew the Pullets; season it with Salt, pepper, Savoury Herbs and Spices, some shredded Parsley, a bunch of herbs, and some Onions; lard your Pullets with large lardoons well season’d place them in the stewpan, lay some bards of Bacon on the Pullets, cover the stewpan and set them over a slack fire.  When they are about half done, uncover the stewpan, put in half a pint of milk and a little Cream; then cover your pan again, and continue to stew them.  When they are done enough, take off the stewpan and let the pullets cool in their liquor.  When they are cold, take them out, rub them over with the fat of the liquor in which they were stew’d drudge them well with read crummed very fine, place them in a patty pan or a silver dish and brown them in an oven or under a baking cover; when they are come to a fine colour lay them in a dish, pour on them some essence of Ha and serve them for first course.

 

You may broil them on a gridiron over a little fire instead of setting them into the oven or else, you may fry them; but in this case, before you drudge them you must dip them in beaten Eggs, then drudge them with bread as above, and fry them in Hogs Lard till they are brown; then take them up and set them a draining.  Fold a napkin in the dish in which you intend to serve them, lay them handsomely upon it with fry’d Parsley, and serve them for the first course.

 

 

To dress Pullets a la Tartare

 

Truss a couple of Pullets as for boiling, slit them along the back, spread them open upon a dresser and beat them.  Put in a stewpan of the size of the Pullets, some Parsley, Chives and Savoury Herbs, shred very small and seasoned with Salt and pepper; lay the Pullets into the stewpan with the breasts downwards; put some of the above seasoning upon them,  then pour in some melted Bacon; stir them about, and let them lie in this mixture tow hours, to give them the taste of it; then set the stewpan over the fire, to melt the bacon again, and keep moving the Pullets in it for half a quarter of an Hour; after which take them out, drudge them well with bread crumm’d very fine, and lay them to broil on a gridiron over a slack fire, till they are grown brown; prepare a hash’d sauce, lay it in the bottom of a dish and the Pullets upon it.  You may serve them likewise with a Ramolade, which see in Letter R.

 

 

To dress Pullets a la Saingaraz

 

Having larded the Pullets and roasted them, take some slices of Bacon, and beat them; then fry them in Lard with a little flour, a bunch of Sweet herbs, and some Gravy, but no Salt; put to it a few drops of Vinegar, and thicken it with a Bread Cullis then cut the Pullets into quarters, and lay them in a dish, pour the sauce upon them, add some slices of lemon; and having clear’d them well from the fat, serve them as hot as you can.

 

 

To roast Pullets with Crayfish

 

Thrust your fingers between the skin and flesh and pull out the breasts, of which make a farce with some Ham of Bacon and Beer Suet, shred chives and Parsley, Savoury Herbs and Spices, the whole seasoned with Salt and Pepper; add to it likewise the yolks of three raw Eggs, and the Crum of a French Roll soak’d in Cream; mince all this well together, and pound it in a Mortar; then farce the Pullets with it, leaving a hole in the middle, in which put some Ragoo’d Crayfish, and close it with some of the farce; sew up the two ends of your Pullets, and parboil them; then having wrapp’d them up in slices of Ham and Bards of Bacon, and put a paper over them, bind them about with pack thread, run a skewer through their legs, fasten them to the spit, and lay them down to roast at a gentle fire; when they are roasted, take off the bards, lay them in a dish, pour on them a Ragoo of Crayfish and serve them for the first course.

 

 

To dress Pullets with Oysters

 

Farce them in the same manner as when you dress them with Crayfish; only that in lieu of Crayfish you use Oysters; roast them likewise as before in the last Receipt.  Meanwhile make a Ragoo of Oysters as follows.  Open them into a saucepan, and give them two or three turns over a stove; then set them off the fire, take them one by one out of the saucepan, clean them well, and lay them on a plate.  Toss up some mushrooms or Truffles in a saucepan with a little melted Bacon, moisten them with Veal-Gravy, season them with Pepper and Salt, and set them to simmer over a gentle fire; when they are enough, take off all the fat, bind your Ragoo with a cullis of Veal and Ham; and put in your Oysters; keep it warm on hot embers, but let it not boil because of the Oyster.  When your Pullets are roasted take off the Bards, lay them in a dish, pour your Ragoo upon them, so serve them for the first course.

 

 

Another way to dress Pullets with Oysters

 

Take a couple of Pullets, and loosen the skin of the Breasts from the flesh, scrape some fat Bacon with a knife; put to it some parsley, one mushroom, and a very little Chives, all shred very small, and seasoned with Pepper and Salt; mix it all well together, and put it between the skin and flesh of the Pullets; make two holes with the point of a knife in the end of the skin, and thrust the pinions through them; then parboil your Pullets, bard them and roast them; when they are roasted, take off the Bards, and having prepared a ragoo of Oysters as in the above receipt, pour it upon them and serve them.

 

We sometimes likewise put a Ragoo of Oyster prepar’d as above, into the bellies of the Pullets, then wrap them up in thin slices of Veal, over which we put Bards of Bacon; so roast and serve them as before.

 

Note:  Turkeys, Capons and Chickens are dress’d with Oysters in the same several manners.

 

 

To dress a Pullet with farced Olives

 

Thrust your finger between the flesh and the skin, pull out the flesh of the Breast, and take out the breast-bone.  Make a farce of the flesh in the following manner; lay it on a dresser with blanch’d Bacon, a little Beef Suet, some shred parsley, Chives and Mushrooms, the crum of a French Roll, soak’d in Cream, and the Yolks of two raw Eggs; season all this with the usual seasonings, pepper, Salt, herbs and Spices; shred it all well together, and pound it in a mortar; then farce the Pullet with this farce, put in the body of it a Ragoo of what you judge proper; and tie it up at the neck and rump.  Garnish the bottom of a stewpan with slices of Bacon of the size of your Pullet, and with slices of Veal or Beef well beaten, and seasoned with Salt, pepper, herbs, Spices, Carrots and Onions; lay in your Pullet, the Breast downwards; season and cover it above as beneath; cover the stewpan and set it a stewing with fire over and under it.  Meanwhile take three or four dozen of large Olives, flip out the stones at the stalk end, taking care to break the skin as little as possible.  Put some of the farce above mentioned into each Olive, and close up the skin upon it.  When you have farced the Olives, make some water boil in a saucepan, put in the Olives and give them one boil, then immediately take them out of the water, put them into a saucepan with some essence of Ham, and set them to simmer over a gentle fire.  When your pullet is stew’d take it up untie the Neck and Rump, lay it in a dish, pour the Ragoo of Olives upon it, and serve it for the first course.

 

We dress in the same manner Capons, Chickens, partridges, Bucks, Teals, Wood Pigeons, Woodcocks and Quails.

 

 

 

To roast a Pullet with farced Olives

 

Observe the same directions for making your farce, and for farcing the Pullet or Fowls, and the Olives as in the above Receipt; but instead of stewing them as is there directed, cover them with bards of Bacon, wrap them up in paper, spit them and lay them down to the fire.  When they are roasted, dish them up, pour your Ragoo of farced Olives upon them, and serve them likewise for the first course.

 

 

To dress Pullets with Truffles

 

Having loosen’d the skin of the breasts, scrape as big as your first of Bacon; take a couple of raw Truffles, wash them very clean, shred them together with parsley, Chives and a very little Basil; lay it on the scrap’d Bacon, season the whole with Salt and Pepper, mix it well together, and put it in between the flesh and skin of your Pullets; make two holes with the point of a knife in the end of the skin next the neck, and thrust inn the Pinions.  Then parboil your Pullets; bard them, put some paper over the Bards, bind them about with packthread, and roast them at a gentle fire.  Peel some raw Truffles, wash them well, cut them in slices, put them into a saucepan with some Veal-Gravy, seasoned with pepper and Salt, set them to stew over a slack fire, and when they are enough, bind the Ragoo with a Cullis of Veal and Ham.  Your Pullets being roasted and dish’d up, the Bards first taken off, pour the Ragoo upon them, and serve them for the first course.

 

Note: That we dress Pullets with Morils or with Mushrooms in the same manner.

 

 

To dress Pullets with Savoury herbs

 

Having prepared your Pullets as in the foregoing receipt, scrape some fat Bacon, put to it some lean Ham minced very small, together with a little shred Parsley, Basil, and Chives; season the whole with pepper and Salt, and mix it well together; then thrust it between the skin and flesh of your Pullets; and having trussed the Pinions through the skin of the necks of them, bard and roast them as in the last Receipt; and serve them with some essence of Ham only.

 

 

To dress Pullets with Slices of Ham

 

Farce and roast your Pullets exactly as in the last receipt.  Cut some Ham of Bacon in slices of the size you think fit; and having beat them, lay them in the bottom of a stewpan and cover it close; then set it over a gentle fire; and when the slices of Ham begin to stick, moisten them with Veal-Gravy without Salt, and let them simmer in it.  When they are enough, take off the fat, and pour on them a Cullis of Veal and Ham.  When your Pullets are roasted and laid in a dish, garnish them with the slices of Ham, pour the Gravy of the Ragoo upon them and serve them for the first course.

 

 

Another way of dressing Pullets with Slices of Ham

 

Having truss’d your Pullets, cut some slices of a Ham for each Pullet one; beat them a little, and season them with shredded Chives and Parsley.  Loosen the skin of the Pullets Breasts with your finger, and slide in a slice of Ham, between the skin and flesh; then blanch your Pullets by laying them before the fire, wrap them up in bards of Bacon and roast them.  When they are roasted and the bards taken off, lay them in a dish, pour on them some essence of Ham, and serve them for the first course.

 

 

To dress Pullets with Cucumbers

 

Take a couple of Pullets, raise up the skin of the Breast, take out the flesh and the Breastbone, take some Ham of Bacon, fat and lean, and a piece of a fillet of Veal blanch’d, some Mushrooms, a little Parsley and Chives, the Yolks of four raw Eggs, and the crumb of a French Roll, soak’d in Cream; season all this with pepper, Salt, a little spice and Savoury herbs, hast it all together, and pound it in a Mortar; then farce your Pullets with it, but keep some of the farce; wrap up your Pullets as in the foregoing Receipts, tie them at the neck and rump, run a skewer through the legs of them, fasten them to the spit and roast them, peel four Cucumbers, and with a piece of wood take out the seeds; then fill them with the remainder of the farce, stop them with flour, and blanch them in boiling water; then take them out and drain them; lay them in to a stewpan, put to them some fat Veal Gravy, and set them to simmer over a gentle fire.  Then put into a sauce pan half a ladleful of Cullis of Veal and Ham, with the same quantity of essence of Ham; into which put your cucumbers, having first taken them up and drain’d them and let them simmer in it; then take up your Pullets, pull off the bards, lay them in a dish and the cucumbers round them; pour the cullis and essence upon them and serve them.

 

 

To dress Pullets with Onions

 

Raise the skin of the breasts, and put in some scraped Bacon and Savoury Herbs, tie up the necks and rumps, parboil, bard, and roast them.  Boil two or three dozen of small round Onions, strip off the outmost skins, put them into a saucepan with some essence of ham, and let them simmer in it.  Then having dish’d up your pullets, lay the Onions in a ring round them, pour on them some essence of Ham, and serve them.

 

 

Pullets a la Braise

 

Are dress’d in the same manner as Capons al la Braise  which see in Letter C.

 

Note:  We dress either Turkeys, Capons or Chickens, all the several ways that we dress pullets.

 

 

PUPTONS

 

To make a Pupton of Pigeons, see article ‘Pigeons’

To make a Pupton in Blood

 

Take two Hares and one Rabbit, bone them and lay the flesh on a table with a piece of a Gammon of Bacon, some Mushrooms, two raw Truffles, some Parsley, Chives and a little Basil, season this with pepper and all sorts of Spices, and but a little Salt because of your Bacon; shred it all well together and put to it the Yolks of four raw Eggs.  Kill some young Pigeons and save the blood, into which put a little Lemon to keep it from turning;  pull the Pigeons without scalding them, draw and truss them handsomely; blanch them before the fire, and put them into a saucepan with melted Bacon, some Veal Sweetbreads and Cockscombs, Mushrooms and Truffles cut in slices, a bunch of Savoury herbs, and an Onion stuck with half a dozen Cloves, season the whole with Salt and pepper, and toss it up together over a stove; then moisten it with Gravy, stew it over a gentle fire; when it is stewed, take off the fat, put in some cullis of Veal and Ham, beat up the Yolks of two Eggs in the Pigeons Blood, and pour it into your Ragoo, taking care not to let it boil for fear it should curdle; then take it off the fire, and set your Ragoo a cooling.  Take some Bacon well blanch’d and cut it into Lardons, such as you lard Pullets with; then cut them again longways till each of them be no bigger than the head of a large pin; cut as much Bacon in this manner, as amounts to two thirds of your hash’d Hare; mix it all together, and knead it up as a paste.  Then place some slices of Bacon in the bottom and round the sides of a large saucepan; lay over them some of your forced Hare about an inch thick; place your Ragoo of Pigeons in Blood in the middle, cover it with the same forced Meat; turn down over it the slices of Bacon that garnish the sides of your saucepan, and bake it in an oven, or baking cover with fire over and under it.  When it is bak’d take the fat clean off, and turn it upside down into the dish in which you intend to serve it; make a hole in the middle of it as big as a crown-piece, and fill it with some essence of Ham.  Make a Ragoo of some slices of Ham as is directed in the Receipt for dressing a Pullet with slices of a Ham.  Garnish your Pupton round with the slices, and pour the gravy of your Ragoo upon it; so serve it hot for the first course.

 

You may likewise serve this Pupton in Blood, with Snipes or Woodcocks instead of the Pigeons, or with all sorts of Ragoos of black flesh, varying it as to that particular as much as you please.

 

 

To make a meagre Pupton

 

Scale, skin and bone two or three Carps, lay the flesh on a table with the flesh of an Eel, some minced Mushrooms, parsley and chives, seasoned with Salt, pepper a little Basil, and a little Nutmeg; shred all this well together;  pound a dozen Coriander seeds, and three or four Cloves, and when they are well pounded, put the minced fish into the mortar, together with a convenient quantity of butter, and pound it all together.  Set to simmer over the stove in milk or cream as big as your fist of the crumb of Bread, beat up in it the Yolks of four Eggs, and when it is grown thus, take it off the stove, and set it a cooling; then put into a mortar the Yolks of four or five raw Eggs, and the Bread and Cream when it is cold, and pound it all well together; make a Ragoo as follows:  take some Milts of Carps, and blanch them over a stove in water; when they begin to boil, take them out and put them into cold water; toss up in a sauce-pan with Butter some small Mushrooms, some Truffles and morils cut in slices; moisten them with good fish broth, season the whole with Salt and pepper, put in a bunch of Herbs, and set it to simmer over a slack fire; when it is half done, put in the Milts of the Carps, some tails of Crayfish, blanch’d Asparagus tops when in season, and Artichoke Bottoms; when all this is enough done, take off all the fat, and bind it with a Cullis of Crayfish (See how to make it in Letter C), and set it a cooling.  Rub a saucepan with fresh Butter; spread some of the farce over it an inch thick or better; beat up an egg, and rub it over with it to make the farce lie the smoother; place the Ragoo of Milts in the bottom and cover the Pupton with same farce; rub it over with beaten Egg, and bake it in an oven, or baking cover with fire over and under it; when it is bak’d turn it upside down into the dish in which you intend to serve it, take off the paper, make a hole of the size of a crown piece in the middle of it, pour in some cullis of Crayfish and serve it hot for a dish of the first course.

 

 

To make a Pupton of Salmon

 

Take the flesh of a Salmon and make a farce of it, as is directed for that of Carps in the foregoing Receipt.  Make a Ragoo of slices of Salmon as follows.  Take first some small Mushrooms and peel them, cut a slice or two of Salmon; rub it with melted Butter and broil it; put a piece of Butter into a saucepan and set it over a stove; when it is melted put in a little flour and brown it; then put in your Mushrooms, and give them two or three turns over the stove, moisten them with fish broth, and season them with pepper, Salt and a bunch of herbs; when the Salmon Is broil’d take off the skin, and cut the fish in long little slices; put them into the saucepan to the Mushrooms, with some tails of Crayfish and Asparagus tops blanch’d; so keep it simmering over a little fire; when it is enough, take off the fat from your Ragoo, and bind it with a cullis of Crayfish; then take it off the fire and set it a cooling.  For the rest, observe exactly the very same directions as are given in the precedent Receipt.

 

A Pupton of Trouts is made in the same manner.

 

We likewise make Puptons of almost all sorts of fish, as Soles, perches, Eels, Turbots, Barbels and others, all which we slice as in the above Receipt; the same farce serves for all, that is to say, it is made in the same manner, though of different fish; the only distinction is the different Ragoos we put into the Puptons, and which always bear the name of the fish of which we make the Ragoo; for the Pupton is constantly made in the same manner.

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