Recipes under S

Is a sea fish as well as a river fish; we dress it either whole or in pieces in the following manners.

 

 

To dress a Salmon au Court-bouillon

 

After having drawn and clean’d your Salmon, core the sides of it pretty deep, that it may take the relish of your Court-bouillon the better; lay it on a napkin, and season it with Salt, pepper, Cloves, Nutmeg, Onions, Chives, Parsley, sliced Lemon, Bayleaf and Basil.  Work up the quantity of about a pound of Butter with a little flour, and put it into the belly of the Salmon; then wrap the Salmon in the napkin, bind it about with a pack thread and lay it in a fish kettle of a size proportionable to the largeness of your fish; put to it a quantity sufficient to boil it in of Wine, Water and Vinegar, and set it over a quick fire; when it is done enough, take it off and keep it simmering over a stove, till you are ready to serve; then take up the Salmon, unfold the napkin it is in, and lay another in the dish in which you intend to serve it, place the Salmon upon it, garnish with green Parsley, and serve it for the first course.

 

 

To dress a whole Salmon, or Pieces of it a la Braise

 

Lard it with large Lardons, well season’d and bind it about with pack thread.  Take two or three pounds of a fillet of Veal, cut it in slices, and lay it with some Bards of Bacon on the bottom of the stewpan, cover the pan, and set it over a slack fire.  When the meat begins to stick powder it with a handful of flour and give it seven or eight turns over the stove, keeping it always moving.  Then moisten it with good broth and a few spoonfuls of Gravy.  Lay the Salmon into an oval stewpan; pour the liquor of your braise upon it; and layer over it your slices of Veal; put in a bottle of champaign or White Wine; see that there be liquor enough; strew in a seasoning of Pepper, Salt, Spices and savoury Herbs, Chives, parsley and some slices of Onion and Lemon; add a lump of butter, and lay some slices of fat Bacon over all of it; so set it to stew over a gentle fire; when it is enough done, take it off the fire, and let it stand a couple of hours in the liquor to give it a relish; but let the pan be always cover’d to keep it warm.  When you are ready to serve, take it up, drain it, untie the pack thread, lay it in the dish you intend to serve it in, pour upon it a Ragoo of Crayfish made with gravy, or else a ragoo of Veal-Sweetbreads, Cocks-combs, etc. and serve it hot.

 

 

To same, dress’d meagre for Fish Days

 

Lard it with Anchovies and the flesh of Eels, bind it about with pack thread, and put it into an oval stewpan or fish-kettle, of the size of your fish.  Put a lump of butter, as big as your first, into a saucepan; set it over a stove, and when it is melted, throw in a handful of flour, and brown it, keeping it always moving; then put to it some fish broth and pour the whole into the stew-pan to your Salmon; to which put likewise a bottle of Champaign or White Wine; so that there may be liquor enough to stew it in.  Season it with Salt, pepper, savoury Herbs and Spices, Onions, Chives, Parsley and slices of Lemon; so get it ready over a slack fire.  When it is enough done, let it stand a couple of hours in its liquor that it may have the relish of it; then take it up unbind and drain it; lay it in the dish you intend to serve in, and pour upon it, either a Ragoo of Milts, Mushrooms and Truffles, or one of Crayfish tails and its garnishings; so serve it.  You will find the way of making these Ragoos in Letter R.

 

 

To broil Salmon, with a white sauce

 

Having cut the Salmon in slices, melt some butter in a saucepan, and put a little salt amongst it; rub the slices of Salmon with this Butter, and broil them over a slack fire.  Make a white sauce as follows:  take some butter and put it into a saucepan with a pinch of flour and a couple of minced Anchovies, having first wash’d them and taken out the bones; add some Capers and a whole Leek; season all this with Pepper, Salt and Nutmeg; put in a little water and a drop of Vinegar.  When the Salmon is broil’d on one side, turn it on the other, and put fresh fire under it.  Keep turning the Sauce over a stove, and when it is of a due thickness, put into the dish in which you design to serve the Salmon, take out the leek, lay in the slices of Salmon and serve them warm.

 

 

To broil Salmon, with a brown Sauce

 

Broil your slices of Salmon as in the above Receipt.  Put into a saucepan the bigness of an egg of Butter, and set it over a stove.  When the Butter is melted, put in half a spoonful of flour, and keep moving it till ‘tis brown, then put in some good fish broth and a glass of White Wine; season it with Pepper, Salt, an Onion stuck with Cloves, a bunch of herbs, and a little shred Parsley.  When the slices of Salmon are broil’d put them into this sauce, and let them simmer in it.  When the sauce is wasted away as much as you would have it, take out the slices of Salmon, lay them in a dish, make a thickening with one or two yolks of Eggs beaten up in a little Verjuice, and bind the sauce with it; then pour it on your slices of Salmon and serve them hot.

 

 

Broil’d Salmon with a Cullis of Cray-fish

 

Prepare and broil your slices of Salmon as above and make the following sauce.  Take a piece of Butter and put it into a saucepan with a pinch of flour, a whole Leek, and one anchovy, season’d with Salt, Pepper and Nutmeg; add a little water and a little Vinegar, and keep moving it over the stove; when it is come to be of a due thickness, put in half a ladleful of Cullis of Crayfish, set it again over the stove to heat it; then take out the Leek, pour it into a dish, lay your broil’d Salmon in it, and serve it.

 

 

Broil’d Salmon with Mushrooms

 

Having cut your Salmon in slices, broil it as above; then lay it in a dish, and pour a Ragoo of Mushrooms upon it.  You may find the way of making it in Letter M.  Article Mushrooms; we likewise serve this broil’d Salmon with a Ragoo of Truffles, or Morils.

 

 

To dress Salmon in Champaign Wine

 

Cut the Salmon in slices, and take off the skin; then take out the middle bone and cut each slice asunder; place them in a saucepan and season them with Salt, pepper, an Onion stuck with Cloves, a Bunch of Herbs, and half a Bayleaf; add a piece of fresh Butter, a little grated bread, some Truffles and Mushrooms; then pour in half a bottle of Champaign Wine, and set the saucepan on a stove over a well kindled fire; when the Liquor is wasted away to the degree it ought, bind it with a Crayfish Cullis; dish it up handsomely, and serve it warm for the first course.

 

 

 

To dress Salmon with Savoury Herbs

 

Cut and bone your Salmon as in the last Receipt.  Lay some fresh Butter on the bottom of a dish or patty pan; let your seasoning be Salt, Pepper, a little Nutmeg, all sorts of savoury Herbs, two or three whole Leeks, and some minced Parsley; lay this upon the Butter and your slices of Salmon upon it, and season them over as under; melt some Butter to sprinkle over them, and drudge them with very fine crumbs of Bread; then set them in an oven, or bake them in a baking cover with fire under and over them.  Meanwhile make a sauce as follows:  Take some raw Truffles, peel them, wash them well, and cut them in small slices; put them into a saucepan with a little fresh Butter, and toss them up over a stove; moisten them with a little fish broth, season them with Salt and Pepper, and a bunch of Herbs, and make them simmer over a gentle fire; bind your Ragoo with a brown cullis, and when the Salmon is baked to a fine brown colour pour your Ragoo into a dish, lay the slices of Salmon over it; so serve it for the first course.

 

 

Salmon marinated and fry’d

 

Having cut your Salmon in slices as before, put them into a saucepan and season them with Salt, Pepper, a Bayleaf, a little Basil, an Onion cut in slices, some whole Chives, a little Parsley, half a dozen Cloves, the juice of three or four Lemons, or else a little Vinegar; mix all this together and let your Salmon lie in it a couple of hours; then take it out, dry it between two napkins, drudge it well with flour, and fry it in clarify’d Butter; make it very brown; lay a napkin in a dish, place your slices of fry’d Salmon upon it; let your garnishing be only fry’d parsley; so serve it in plates or little dishes.

 

 

To make a Salmon-Hastlet

 

Skin your Salmon and cut it in dice about the size of a little Walnut.  Take some small skewers of about a finger’s length, and put three or four of your bits of Salmon upon a skew; we call each skewer a Hastlet.  Make two dozen of these Hastlets, put them into a saucepan with melted Butter, season them with Salt, pepper, Savoury herbs, minced Chives and Parsley, and juice of Lemon; heat all this one moment, then drudge your Hastlets with Bread crumm’d very fine and lay them to broil on a gridiron over a little fire; when they are broil’d on one side, turn them and put fresh fire under them.  When they are broil’d very brown, lay a napkin in a dish, place a porringer with a Ramolade in the middle of it, lay the Hastlets round it, and serve them for plates or little dishes.

 

 

Note:  We garnish our largest dishes of the first course with these Hastlets.

 

 

To farce Slices of Salmon

 

Cut three or four slices of Salmon an inch thick, and take off the skin; then cover them with the same farce you use for a Pupton of Salmon, which see in Letter P.   When they are farced rub them over with beaten Egg and melted Butter.  Lay a little butter in a dish or Patty pan, season it with Salt, pepper, a little Savoury Herbs and Spices, some whole Chives and minced Parsley, then place in your farced slices of Salmon and set them into the oven; when they are baked, and of a fine colour, put a Ragoo of Crayfish in the dish in which you design to serve it, and lay your slices of Salmon upon it, so serve them warm.  To make the Ragoo, see Letter R.  Article Ragoos.

 

 

 

A Salpicon is a sort of Ragoo so call’d and that we use in our great dishes of Roast-meat, which we serve in the first course, such as Chines of Beef or Mutton, Barons of Beef, and Quarters of Mutton or Veal, etc.  We make it as follows:  Take some cucumbers, cut them in two, and take out the seeds; then cut them in dice, and lay them in a dish to marinate in Vinegar, pepper, Salt and an Onion or two cut in slices; cut some of the lean of a Ham of Bacon in dice; take some Mushrooms and Truffles, the Breasts of Pullets, fat Livers and Veal Sweetbreads.  Squeeze the Cucumbers, toss them up in a saucepan over the stove with a little melted Bacon; moisten them with gravy and let them simmer in it over a gentle fire; then take the fat clean off.  Set over a stove, another saucepan with a little melted Bacon, into which put the Ham you had cut in dice, a few Chives and a little Parsley. Mince the mushrooms, Truffles and Sweetbreads and toss up all these ingredients together, and then moisten them with some Gravy, season them with Pepper, Salt, and a bunch of Herbs, and when they have simmer’s a while in it, take off all the fat.  When they are done almost enough, put to them the fat Livers, and the Breasts of your Pullets cut in dice; then bind your Salpicon with some Cullis of Veal and Ham, and some essence of Ham.  When the cucumbers are ready, bind them likewise with the same Cullis, and put the whole into the same saucepan, that is to say, put the Ragoo of Cucumbers into the Salpicon; make a hole in your piece of roast meat, in the part of it you think most convenient; for example if it be a quarter of Veal or Mutton make it in the leg; and having taken out the flesh that may serve you for some other use, put the Salpicon in the room of it.

 

 

Note:  You may likewise serve the Salpicon by itself.

 

 

 

To dress Salt Fish a la Montizeur

 

Take the fish of a Carp from the bones and skin, mince it small, put it on the fire in a stewing dish, with a good deal of butter, and six whole onions; when the butter is melted add the minc’d Fish, with Pepper and Nutmeg, and stir it over the fire; Your Salt fish being boild’d take it from the skin and bones, and mince it as the other fresh fish, with four rolls, soak’d in Milk very thick; mix all these together, with Nutmeg and a piece of fresh Butter; this being done, spread your Cod as long as your dish is in bigness, lay on your dish some of your minc’d fish.  So place your whole fish in the middle of your dish, putting some of your minc’d fish in about it, but none of the top; put a little melted Butter and Oysters over it, and a little grated Bread; so bake it in an oven or baking cover.  Make the sauce of Butter, Milk, and Nutmeg; bake it in the dish you serve it in.  Serve the Sauce in a Porringer to the table, with a little over the fish.

 

 

To fry Salt-fish

 

Take a tail of Salt fish and water it till it is very fresh; either leave it whole or cut it in slices as you think fit.  Dry it well and drudge it with flour; fry it brown with clarify’d Butter and serve it dry with fry’d Parsley.

 

 

Fry’d Salt-Fish with a sauce Robert

 

Your salt fish being fry’d as in the last Receipt, make a sauce Robert as follows:  cut some Onions in dice, toss them up in a saucepan with a morsel of Butter; when they are brown, drudge them with flour, moisten them with Fish broth, and wet them to simmer over a gentle fire; when they are enough done, put the fry’d Salt-fish into the sauce, and let it simmer in it put in some Mustard and a little Vinegar; and if your sauce be not thick enough, bind it with a Cullis; then take up your salt fish, lay it in a dish, and pour your sauce Robert upon it.  It is proper only for the first course.

 

Note:  You may serve it without making it simmer in the sauce; to this end, when the sauce is ready, pour it into the dish and place your slices of fry’d salt-fish handsomely upon it.  Take notice, that when we serve it in this manner, we always cut the salt-fish in slices before we fry it; and that we serve it in plates or little dishes.

 

Note likewise: that we often serve this fry’d salt-fish whether in one entire piece or cut in slices, either with a Ragoo of Cucumbers or of Endive, made as directed in Letter R.  save only that instead of Gravy, Bacon and Cullis there mention’d we make use of fish broth, Butter and a Cullis of Crayfish.

 

 

To farce a Tail of Salt-fish

 

Take a flesh of a Carp and half as much Eel, some Mushrooms, a French roll soak’d in Cream, and the Yolks of three or four raw Eggs; season it with Parsley, Chives, Salt, Pepper, Savoury herbs and Spices; mince all this well together, and pound it in a mortar, with some fresh Butter in proportion to the quantity of your Fish.  Boil a Tail of Salt-fish, pull of the flesh in flakes, keep the bone, and let the end of the tail hand to it.  Toss up in a saucepan some Mushrooms and Truffles in a brown made of Butter and Flour, moisten this Ragoo with Fish broth, set it to simmer as usual and take off all the fat, then put to it some Milts of Carps, together with the flakes of your Salt-fish; bind it with a Crayfish or other Cullis, and set it by a cooling. Lay the bone of your Salt-fish with the Tail hanging to it, in a silver dish or a pastypan; place in your farce in the form of a tail of Salt-fish; make round it a rim three inches high, pour in your Ragoo and cover it with the same farce; dip a knife in a beaten Egg, to smooth it over and make it lie very even; melt a piece of fresh butter and pour it over it, drudge it with very small crumbs of Bread, and bake it till it be of a fine brown colour; then serve it for the first course.

 

Observe:  that when you bake it in a patty pan you must lay under it little slices of Bread, cut very thin, to hinder it from sticking to the pan, and that you may the better slide it off into the dish you serve it in.

 

 

To dress Salt-fish a la Sainte-Menhout

 

Put a couple of tails of Salt-fish into boiling water; when they are boil’d pull them to pieces in flakes as large as you can.  Make a sauce with fresh butter, a pinch of flour, some min’d Parsley, Truffles and Mushrooms, some Capers, Pepper, Nutmeg and Cream, put in your flakes of Salt-fish, and set them to simmer in it over a stove; then set it by to cool.  Make a hash of Carp in the manner directed in Letter H and put it into a dish; garnish the Brims all round with your Salt-fish but let them not cover the hash that is in the middle of it; strew over the wholesome Bread crumm’d very fine, and set it in an oven to brown it; then serve it for the first course.

 

 

 

To make a Leer of Fish Sauce; in which is contain’d a Receipt for dressing a Cod’s Head, or any other large Fish, after the English way.

 

For a Cod’s Heat blanch off a quart of Oysters, but save their liquor; wash them in water, cleaning them from the beards and shells.  But instead of the Oysters, you may take tow or three lobsters and cut them in large dice; place either of them in a saucepan; if your Cod’s Head is large, you must put two pounds of Butter to it, if small, one pound.  You must put to each pound of Butter, the Yolks of three Eggs, three Anchovies taken from the bones, and minc’d small, one Lemon, a scrap’d Nutmeg a little beaten pepper, a whole Onion, a bunch of Sweet herbs, ty’d together with pack thread.  Let your Sweet herbs be a sprig of thyme, half a Bay-leaf, and a little Parsley; if you make use of Oysters, put their own liquor to them that you fav’d when they were set off; but if you have Lobsters, take the spawn, or red out of the body; or if they have neither spawn nor red, take the small claws and pound them in a Mortar and strain it out with five or six spoonfuls of White wine or Gravy, and put it to your butter and other above mention’d ingredients.  Your sauce being thus ready in a well tinn’d saucepan; get your Cod’s Head clean and in order, cut according to the bigness of your dish; tie it with two yards of pack thread or tape, but not very strait, because your pack thread will be apt to cut your fish, unless you have splinters of wood betwixt that and your fish, which must not be of fir.  Then place your Cod’s Head in a saucepan or earthen pan, put over the fire in another saucepan a pint of vinegar and a spoonful of whole Pepper and Cloves, a green Lemon-peel two Bayleaves, three or four Onions in slices, and two handfuls of Salt.  Let all this boil up together and pour it over your Cod’s Head.  Let it lie in this pickle an hour before you boil it, and turn it frequently that it may take the taste of the pickle; then boil it over the fire in a pan of water; if your Cod’s Head is tolerably big, it will take an hour’s soft boiling.  Put it in with a Fish plate under it, if you have one; if not, you may put a Mazarine under it, and boil the pickle with it, adding a handful or two of Salt, as you find occasion, according to your discretion; take care you take it up with good strong skimmer under your mazarine, without breaking.  Put it a draining on a Colander.  At the same time draw up your above Sauce over a gentle, clear fire, stirring it with a wooden or well tinn’d Ladle, as you do draw up butter; let it be thicker than Cream.  If you find it is too thin, shake a little Flour on your ladle, and if it is too thick add a spoonful or two of White Wine or Gravy, then take out the bundle of Sweet Herbs  and the whole Onions, and squeeze in a Lemon, place some sippets about your dish and some in the bottom; then slide in your Cod’s Head being first well drain’d with the back up you may pour a little of your fish sauce on your Cod’s Head while it is a draining, to make the water go from it.  Let your garnishing be scrap’d horseradish, and pickled Barberries or Lemon; your sauce being very hot, pour it over.  So serve it.  But if you have plenty of Fish, you may garnish it with fry’d Smelts, or Sparlings turn’d round. Or you may use Whitings fry’d and Parsley betwixt them.  Dip your fish that is to fry into two raw Eggs, and then drudge them with fine grated Bread, and a little Salt, and fry them in clarify’d better or Hog’s Lard.  I have been the more particular in this Receipt, because you may dress any other strong fish after same manner; for example, Salmon, Pike, Trout or whatever you have.  If Salmon or Trout, use no Vinegar because it takes the colour away.

 

 

To make a sauce with Westphalia Ham

 

Cut three or four slices of it, beat them put them into a saucepan and set them over a stove; when they begin to stick to the pan, drudge them with a little flour, keeping the always moving, moisten them with gravy, put in a bunch of Herbs and Pepper and let them simmer gently over the fire.  If it should chance not to be so thick as you desire to have it, bind it with a little Cullis of Veal and Ham.  Strain it through a sieve, and use it for all sorts of roast meat of white flesh.

 

 

To make green Sauce

 

Take some green Wheat and pound it in a mortar with a crust of Bread; season it with Pepper and Salt; moisten it with Veal Gravy and Vinegar; then pour it into a sieve and strain it.  This sauce is proper for Lamb.

 

 

To make a sauce for Ducks, Teals, etc

 

Take some Veal Gravy, season it with Pepper and Salt, squeeze in the juice of a couple of Oranges, and serve it with all sorts of wild fowl.

 

 

To make a sauce for Woodcocks

 

Having roasted your Woodcocks, take out the guts and Livers, bruise them to pieces in a saucepan, season them with Pepper and Salt, moisten them with Red wine; cut up your Woodcocks in the Sauce, and if it be not thick enough, bind it with two or three spoonfuls of a cullis of Veal and Ham, make it hot, squeeze in the juice of two Oranges and serve it.

 

 

To make a Sauce for roasted Mutton

 

Peel some Shallots and mince them very small; put them into a dish with Pepper, Salt and Veal or Mutton Gravy.  We likewise use this sauce for roasted Fowls.

 

 

To make Anchovie Sauce

 

When your Anchovies are wash’d take out the bones, mince them small, and put them into a saucepan with a little thin cullis of Veal and Ham, season’d with Pepper, make it hot, then put in a drop of Vinegar and use it with your dishes of Roast Meat.

 

 

To make Caper-Sauce

 

Take some essence of Westphalia Ham, and put it into a saucepan with some Capers cut in three or four pieces each; put in a little Pepper, and serve it hot in whatever dishes you think fit to use it.

 

 

To make sauce with Truffles

 

Peel your Truffles, wash them clean and mince them; put them into a saucepan with some thin cullis of Veal and Ham; season this with pepper and Salt, then make it simmer over a gentle fire; serve it hot with any dishes of Butchers Meat roasted or boiled.

 

Note:  We make sauces of Morils and Mushrooms the same way.

 

 

To make an Onion Sauce

 

Take some Veal gravy and set it to simmer in a saucepan with a couple of onions cut in slices, season it with pepper and Salt, strain it through a sieve and use it hot.

 

 

To make a sauce call’d a Poivrade

 

Put some vinegar into a saucepan with a little Veal Gravy, one whole Leek, an Onion cut in slices, and two or three slices of Lemon; season it with Pepper and Salt, and when it is boil’d strain it through a sieve, pour it into a porringer, and serve it hot with several dishes directed in the Receipts.

 

 

To make a Sweet Sauce

 

Put into a saucepan some vinegar, one Bayleaf, a stick of Cinnamon, some Sugar and make it boil; when it is wasted away to a due degree, strain it through a Sieve, and serve it hot with all dishes where it is proper to use a Sweet Sauce.  Instead of the Vinegar you may make use of Wine.

 

 

 

To make a sauce with Fennel and Green Gooseberries

 

Put a little butter into a saucepan and melt it, then put to it a pinch of flour, and brown it; add a few minc’d Chives, and moisten your sauce with some fish-broth, season’d with pepper and Salt, when it boils, put in two or three sprigs of young Fennel; and some well-pick’d Gooseberries; keep it simmering till your Gooseberries are enough done, then bind it with a Cullis, and serve it hot where proper.

 

 

To make a Sauce-Robert

 

Cut some Onions in dice, toss them up in a saucepan with a little melted Bacon, keeping them always moving; when they are half brown’d pour off the fat as clean as you can, moisten them with gravy, and let them simmer over a gentle fire, having first season’d them with Pepper and Salt, when they are done enough, bind them with some Cullis of Veal and Ham put in some Mustard and a little Vinegar and use it when you have occasion, but particularly for roasted Pork.

 

 

 

 

Take some Hogs Flesh of the best and tenderest pieces, an equal quantity of the fat and lean; you may mix a little Veal with it; mince it all well together with a little Shallot; season it with Salt, Pepper, a very little Sweet Herbs, and some spices of all Sorts; add to it as big as an Egg of Bread crumm’d very small; take the smallest Hogs Guts, and having prepar’d them in the directions for Marrow-Puddings, fill them with these ingredients in the same manner.  Prick the guts from time to time with a pin, as well to let out the wind as to make them fill the better; when they are full, smooth the Saucidges with your hand; tie them of the length you would have them, and broil them over a gentle fire; Serve them for Hors-d’Oeuvres, or use them for garnishings.

Note We make Veal Saucidges in the same manner, only making use of the lean of a fillet of veal instead of that of pork, and as much of the fat of hogs flesh as of the lean of veal. As to all the rest we observe the same directions.

 

 

 

To make a Saucidge-Royal

 

Take some flesh of Partridges, some of Pullet or Capon, some Gammon of Bacon and a little of a Leg of Veal, all of it raw, add to this some Parsley, Chives, Truffles and Mushrooms, two whole Eggs, the Yolks of three or four more, and a spoonful or two of Cream; season all this with fine spices of all sorts, some Salt, Pepper and a very little Garlick shred it all together; then rowl up this farce in large rolls, according to the quantity you have of it; and to make it hold together in the dressing, cut some very thin slices of a fillet of Veal and lay them flat upon a table, rowl up this farce in them, and make each Saucidge at least as big as your wrist, and of a reasonable length.  Having thus prepared your Saucidges upon them, so as to touch one another; cover them first with slices of beef, and then with slices of Bacon and stew them a la Braise taking care that the fire be not too violent.  They must stew eight or ten hours; then take them off the fire, and set them to cool in the same saucepan when you are ready to serve, take off the fat with your hand; take out your Saucidges, being careful not to break them; take off the Veal slices in which you rowl’d them up, then with a sharp knife cut them in slices, lay them handsomely in a dish or plate and serve them cold.

 

 

To make Bologna Saucidges

 

Take a buttock of Beef and of a leg of Pork of each three pounds, two pounds or more of the fat of Pork or of Bacon, and a pound and half of Beef-Suet, parboil the meat over a fire for an hour, then shred it small, each sort by itself; next shred the Pork or Bacon fat, and the Beef suet by themselves; then take Savoury, Thyme, Penny-royal and red sugar, of each an equal quantity and the weight of two ounces only of all of them; having shredded the herbs very fine, mix with them Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Cloves and Mace powder’d grossly, of all of them together about six Drachms; then mix the meat and all the other ingredients well together, with a good quantity of salt; add to it the yolks of a dozen eggs and four ounces of flour made in to soft paste;  and having mix’d these well together pound them in a mortar.  Prepare some ox guts as follows: having cleans’d them well, cut them into proper lengths and let them lie three or four days in water and salt turning them inside out every day till they are clean and white; then fill them with the above ingredients and tie them fast.  Hang them in the smoak or dry them in a tin stove over a fire made of sawdust for three or four days together.  They will keep if thus order’d and well dry’d a great many months.

 

 

 

Having skinn’d them on both sides, cut the two sides from the body, and each side down through the middle; then lay each half cross-ways and cut it in slices cross-ways, half an inch thick.  When you come up toward the thick part, cut it thinner; throw it in cold water with the Liver, an hour or two before you boil it.  If your fish is fresh, it will m make it curdle and turn crimp.  Then boil it in a brass dish, with water, Salt and Vinegar, skim it well in the boiling; put your Liver a boiling two or three minutes before you put in your cut fish, which will be boil’d in a quarter of an hour; take up your slices carefully, that you break them not; for they will be turn’d round like a hoop, and very tender; drain them well and flip them into your dish with some sippets under them. Let your sauce be a pound of Butter, a spoonful of Vinegar, two spoonfuls of Water, a little dust of flour, the Yolks of two Eggs, some scrap’d Nutmeg, a little beaten Pepper, and minced Anchovy; draw this up together to the thickness of a Cream; then put in a good spoonful of Mustard, and half a Lemon; pour it hot over your fish, and lay the Liver upon it. Let your garnishing be a little pick’d Parsley, clean wash’d.  So serve it.

 

This sauce is proper for boil’d Smelts, or Sparlings; or for boil’d fresh herrings.

 

 

To dress a Scate or Thornback au Court-Bouillon

 

Gut it and wash it well in water; then boil it in Water, with Vinegar, Salt, Pepper, Cloves and Savory Herbs.  When it is almost boil’d throw in the liver to boil a moment; then take the fish off the fire, and let it stand in its own liquor.  When it is almost cold, take it up, skin it and pick out the thorns; having clean’d it well, lay it in a dish, and serve it with a brown sauce, made of oil’d Butter and Parsley toss’d up in it, with a drop of Vinegar.

 

 

To dress Scate with Anchovy-Sauce

 

The Scate being boil’d as in the last Receipt, let is stand to cool, then skin it and take out the thorns in like manner; lay it handsomely in the dish you intend to serve it in, and set it over a chafing dish of Coals; meanwhile prepare the following sauce.  Put into a saucepan some fresh Butter and a pinch of flour; season it with Salt, Pepper and Nutmeg, moisten it with a little Vinegar and Water.  Wash a couple of Anchovies, mince them and put them into the sauce, and turn it over the stove; when the sauce is thicken’d, pour it on your Scate and serve it for the first course.

 

At another time you may serve it with Capers in a white sauce, or with a Crayfish Cullis in White sauce likewise, and pour it on your fish.

 

 

To fry Scate, with a brown Sauce

 

Gut your Scate, cut it in two in the middle, and blanch it in scalding water, take off the skin and the thorns, and set it a cooling; then drudge it with flour, and fry it in clarify’d Butter; when it is fry’d take it up, drain it and put it into a saucepan.  Make a brown sauce as follows.  Mince some Chives and Parsley; set a saucepan over a stove with a lump of fresh Butter and melt it; then put in a little flour and brown it; when it is brown’d put in the Chives and Parsley, together with some Fish-broth or juice of Onions, season it with Salt and Pepper; let it simmer a while, then put it into the saucepan to your Skate, with some minced Capers, and let it all simmer together; take up your Skate, and having laid it in a dish, bind your sauce with a Crayfish or other good Cullis, pour it on your Skate and serve it.

 

At other times the Scate being fry’d and having simmer’d in the brown sauce as above, we dish it up, pour on it a Ragout of Crayfish or of Milts or of Muscles. See the manner of making them in their respective articles.

 

 

 

Having cut the meat into thin slices, beat it with a rolling pin, and hack the slices with the back of a knife on both sides of them; then fry them in good meat gravy; set a dish over a chafing dish of coals, and lay them in it; let the sauce be two anchovies dissolved in a little Claret, to which put a little Butter and the Yolks of two or three Eggs beaten; beat it all together, and pour it over the Collops; then lay on them some thin slices of fry’d Bacon, the Yolks of Eggs boil’d hard, and fry’d afterwards, and some Saucidges fry’d likewise, and so serve them.

 

 

 

 

 

Another way

 

Having boned a leg of Veal, cut as much of it as you intend to use, into thin slices, and beat them with the back of a cleaver.  Then season them with Salt, and draw Lardons of Bacon of an inch in length through every piece; fry them in Butter, and let the sauce be Mutton Gravy, Clare, one or two Anchovies, and the juice of an Orange warmed a little over the fire; rub the dish with a clove of Garlick, and having laid in the collops, pour the sauce over them.  Garnish with sliced Lemon.

 

 

To make Scotch Collops of a Leg of Mutton

 

Having cut the Mutton into thin slices, beat them very well, and set them over a quick fire in a pan with a glazed bottom, and just as much melted Butter as will smear it over; turn them several times, and when they are enough lay them in a dish, and set them over a chafing dish of coals, keeping them cover’d while you prepare the sauce as follows.  Take about a pint of Mutton-Gravy into which put a pretty large piece of Butter, some Pepper, a small Onion; or other wise rub the dish with a clove of Garlick; let this boil a while then take out the Onion, pour the sauce on the Collops, stew them a little together, squeeze in some juice of Lemon, and serve them up.

 

 

 

Is a sea fish which nevertheless often comes into fresh water; where having continued some time, it becomes much better than when it is taken in the sea.

 

 

To broil a Shad

 

Scale it and score it on the sides then rub it over with Butter, stew it with Salt, and broil it brown upon a gridiron over a small fire; serve it with a sauce of Sorrel and Cream; to the Sorrel add some Parsley, Chervil, Chives, Salt, Pepper, Nutmeg and good Butter. Or else you may serve it with a Ragoo of Mushrooms; or with a brown sauce with some Capers, all toss’d up in a saucepan with the usual seasonings, and the Liver of the Shad bruised in the sauce to thicken it; otherwise you may bind it with a Crayfish or other meagre Cullis.

 

 

To dress a Shad au Court-Bouillon

 

Having scaled and scored it, boil it in White Wine with a little Vinegar, Salt, Pepper, Bayleaf, Onions stuck with Cloves, slices of Lemon, and a lump of Butter; when it is boil’d’; serve it dry on a napkin for a dish of the first course.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lay them to marinate in Vinegar, Salt, Pepper, Bayleafs, and Chives then dry them well with a linen Cloth, drudge them well with flour and fry them.  So serve them hot with fry’d Parsley.

 

 

To dress Smelts in Ragoo

 

Put them into a saucepan with Butter, a little White Wine, scraped Nutmeg, sliced Lemon, and fry’d flour, when they are almost enough, add some minced Capers and serve them.

 

 

To dress Smelts au Court Bouillon

 

Put them into a stewpan with White Wine, sliced Lemon, Pepper, Salt and Bayleaf, when they are enough serve them on a napkin with Green Parsley or else with the Ramolade, for which you have the Receipt in Letter R.

 

 

 

Slit them in two, but take out nothing from their bellies; toss them up with melted Bacon, season them with Salt and Pepper, the juice of Mushrooms, and when they are enough, squeeze in some Lemon and serve them.

 

 

To make a Surtout of Snipes

 

Take the breasts of Pullets, Chickens and partridges; mince them with some blanch’d Bacon, some Veal Sweetbreads, some Truffles and Mushrooms, some Beef-Marrow, the crumb of two French Rolls soak’d in Milk; all sorts of Sweet Herbs, a little cream-Cheese, and as much Cream as you judge convenient; all this being well minced and seasoned, put in the Yolks of four or five Eggs, and one or two of the Whites; make round balls of some of this farce as big as Walnuts, roll them in beaten Eggs, and then in bread crumm’d very fine.  Lay a rim of them round the dish in which you intend to serve your Surtout.  Then, your Snipes being roasted and cold, make a Salmigondin of them, (for which see the Receipt) and lay it in the dish; cover it with the remainder of your farce, smooth it over with beaten Egg, drudge it with fine crumbs of Bread and bake it in an oven till it is of a fine brown colour, then serve it warm for the first course.

 

 

To roast Snipes

 

Dry them or not, as you like them; but if they are drawn, then put a small Onion into the belly of each Snipe; and while they are roasting, put Claret, Vinegar, Salt, Pepper and Anchovy into the dripping pan; to which, when they are roasted, add a little grated bread and some Butter, shaking the whole well together, and so serve them up.  If you do not draw them, then only take out the guts, mince them very small, and put them into Claret, with a little Salt, Gravy and Butter.  Or you may make the sauce thus: having boil’d some Onions, Butter them, and season them with Salt and Pepper, and put to them the gravy of any fresh meat.

 

 

 

Having gutted and washed your Soles, dry them well, drudge them with flour and fry them in clarify’d butter till they are of a fine brown colour; then drain them dry, and having laid a napkin in the dish you intend to serve them in, place them upon it with fry’d Parsley, and serve them for the first course.  We generally eat them with Salt, Pepper, and the juice of Orange or Lemon.

 

 

To dress Soles in Champaign Wine

 

Take some middle-sized Soles, and having gutted and scaled them, cut off the Head, the Tail, and the fins all round them; lay them in a stewpan, season them with Salt, pepper, an Onion stuck with Cloves, a bunch of Sweet Herbs, some whole Chives, minced Parsley, and slices of Lemon; pour on them a pint of Champaign Wine, and a little fish broth, to which add a lump of Butter, and some crumb of Bread grated very fine; set all this over a stove with a quick fire.  When the Soles are enough stew’d and the liquor is wasted away as it ought, thicken it with a brown Cullis, or with one of  Crayfish; lay the Soles handsomely in a dish, pour the sauce upon them, and serve them warm for the first course.

 

 

Fry’d Soles with a brown Cullis

 

Having gutted, scal’d, wash’d and dry’d your Soles, slit them along the back, and fry them; when they are fry’d cut off the head and the end of the tai; set a saucepan over a stove with a little bit of Butter, put in it a little shred Chives and Parsley; when it is fry’d a little, moisten it with Fish Broth, season it with Salt and Pepper, let is simmer a while, then put in some Capers, bind your Sauce with a brown Cullis, put in the Soles to simmer in it; then lay them in a dish, pour the sauce upon them and serve them.

 

 

Soles with Cucumbers

 

When your Soles are fry’d as in the last Receipt, set them to drain.  Take three or four Cucumbers, cut them in two, and, take out the seeds, and cut them in dice; lay them to marinate two hours with an Onion cut in slices, Pepper, Salt, and a little Vinegar; turn them in it from time to time; then dry them in a napkin; melt some butter in a sauce-pan, put in the Cucumbers and brown them, then moisten them with Fish broth, and keep them simmering over a gentle fire; when they are done enough, take off all the fat, and bind them with a brown Cullis, or else with a brown made of fry’d flour; put your fry’d Soles into the saucepan to your Cucumbers and when they have simmer’d a while among them, dish them up, pour the Ragoo upon them and serve them.

 

 

To dress Soles en Fricandeaux

 

Gut your Soles and scrape them; then having wash’d and dry’d them, cut off the heads, tails, and all the fins quite round them; then slay off the upper skin, lard them with the smallest Lardons; and drudge them with a little flour.  Put some melted Bacon into a saucepan, set it over a stove, and when it is very hot, lay in the Soles one by one, and brown them; when they are of a fine colour take them up-.  Mince some Truffles or some Mushrooms very small, and lay them in a dish, with some essence of Ham, and some Cullis of Veal and Ham, of each an equal quantity; then place your Soles in the dish, the larded side upmost, cover them with another dish, and set them to simmer over a gentle fire; when they are done enough, take out the Soles, pour the cullis into the dish you intend to serve them in, squeeze in the juice of a Lemon, lay your Soles in the same dish and serve them warm.

 

 

Soles farc’d with a Ragoo of Crayfish

 

Take some Soles, and having gutted, scrap’d, wash’d and dry’d them, cut off the heads and tails, slit them along the back, and take out the bone.  Take a small Sole and bone it; lay the flesh on a table with a little Parsley and some Chives, some Mushrooms, the Yolks of three or four raw Eggs, the bigness of an egg of bread soak’d in Cream, and fresh butter in proportion.  Season this with Salt, pepper, Sweet Herbs and a little spice, mince it all well together and pound it in a mortar; then farce your Soles with it.  Rub the bottom of a dish or Pasty-pan over with Butter, season it with Salt, Pepper, a very little Sweet Herbs, and minced Parsley, together with a couple of whole Leeks; then turn in the Soles, the farced side downmost, and season the upmost side of them with Salt, Pepper and Nutmeg; sprinkle them over with melted Butter, drudge them slightly with bread crumm’d very fine, and set them to bake in an oven, or under a baking cover, when they are done enough and of a fine brown colour, lay them in a dish and pour a Ragoo of Crayfish upon them.  We likewise serve them with a Ragoo of Oysters or of Mushrooms, or of Truffles.

 

 

Farced Soles, with Anchovie Sauce

 

Farce and dress your Soles as in the last Receipt.  Make a white Sauce as follows; put some fresh Butter into a Saucepan, with a pinch of flour, and some salt, pepper, and a little Nutmeg; to which put a spoonful of water and a drop or two of Vinegar.  Wash a couple of Anchovies, take out the bone and mince them; put them into the Sauce with some whole Chives, and a slice or two of Lemon; keep turning the Sauce over a stove; and when it is thicken’d, put in a little brown Cullis, or else some Cullis of Crayfish, pour it into the dish in which you intend to serve your Soles, which having fry’d of a fine brown colour, lay them on the sauce and serve them.

 

We sometimes serve these farc’d Soles dry, laying them on a napkin with a garnishing of fry’d Parsley.

 

 

To dress Soles a la Sainte-Menehout

 

Having gutted, scrap’d, wash’d and dry’d the Soles, cut off the fins.  Put a quart of Milk into a saucepan, and make it boil; then pour it into another saucepan and put the Soles to it, with a piece of Butter as big as your first; let your seasoning be Salt, Pepper, some sliced Onion, some whole Chives, some Bayleaves, Parsley, Basil, and Sweet Spices; stew your Soles in these ingredients, and when they are enough, set them to cool in their own liquor; when they are cold take them out, rub them over with a little of the fat of the Liquor, drudge them with very fine Crumbs of bread, and lay them to broil over a slack fire; when they are broil’d finely brown, lay a napkin in the dish you mean to serve them in, place the Soles upon it, and serve them.  You may set in the middle of the dish a saucer with some of the Ramolade for which you have the Receipt in Letter R.

 

We likewise dress sliced Soles in the like manner, and if you would fry them, you need only, when they are stew’d as above, take them out of their liquor, dip them in beaten Eggs, drudge them with Bread crumm’d very fine, and having fry’d them brow, drain them well and serve them on a napkin with fry’d Parsley.

 

 

To make a Surtout of Soles

 

Make a farce of the flesh of a Carp and an Eel as follows:  mince it on a table with some Mushrooms, Parsley and Chives.  Season the whole with Salt, Pepper, a little Sweet Herbs and Spice; and put it in a mortar.  Take the bigness of two Eggs of the crumb of Bread, put it into a saucepan with some Cream or Milk, and boil it over a stove; when it comes to be half thicken’d, put in the Yolks of two Eggs, stir them well about in it, and when it is boil’d very thick, take it off and set it a cooling; meanwhile the Farce being well pounded, add to it as much Butter as your discretion thinks fit, three or four Yolks of raw Eggs, and the Bread-Cream; pound the whole again together; then take it out of the mortar; fry two or three Soles, and when they are fry’d, raise up the flesh in long flakes or slices; set a saucepan over a stove with a lump of butter, a handful of small Mushrooms, and some Truffles cut in slices; toss them up, moisten them with a little fish broth, season the whole with Salt, Pepper and a bunch of Sweet Herbs, and boil it; when it is enough boil’d, take the fat clean off; and having bound the sauce with a brown cullis, or one of Crayfish, put in the slices or flakes of your Soles, and let them simmer over a gentle fire, then take them off and set them a cooling.  Take a silver dish, spread the bottom of it with some of the farce round it.  When your Ragoo of Soles is cold, pour it into the dish, and cover it over with some of the same farce.  Dip a broad knife in beaten Eggs, and rub it gently over the farce to make it lie smooth; lay all round it some thin slices of Bread, sprinkle it over with melted Butter, drudge it with very fine crumbs of Bread, and set it to bake in an oven; when it is baked and of a fine colour, take it out of the oven, clear it well of the fat, wipe the brims of the dish very clean, and serve it hot for the first course.

 

Note:  We make all sorts of Surtouts of fish in the same manner that is to say always with the same farce; tis only the Ragoo you put in that makes the difference, and give the name to it.

 

 

Soles with Fennel

 

Take the largest soles you can get; and after you have gutted, scraped, wash’d and dry’d them, cut off the heads and the tails; melt some Butter, into which put a little Pepper and Salt, and rub the Soles in it; lay some green fennel on a gridiron place the Soles upon it, and broil them over a slack fire; when they are broil’d on one side, turn them on the other, and put fresh coals under the gridiron.  Meanwhile make a sauce as follows:  Mince some Chives and Parsley, put it into a saucepan with a little butter, and set it over a stove; keep it in motion from time to time, and moisten it with a little Fish broth; when it is wasted away as much as it ought to be, put in two minced Anchovies, with a few Capers, bind it with a good brown Cullis, and put it into the dish you intend for your Soles; take them off from the gridiron, pick off any of the Fennel that may chance to stick to them, lay them in the dish to your sauce, and serve them.

 

 

Note:  We dress Trouts, Slices of Salmon and small Barbels in the same manner.

 

 

Soles with Sweet Herbs

 

Having clean’d your Soles, cut off the heads and tails, slit them along the back; rub a silver dish or a pattypan with Butter; season it with Salt, Pepper, a very few Sweet Herbs, some shred Parsley and whole Chives; then lay in your soles, season them above as under, sprinkle them with melted Butter, drudge them with very fine crumbs of Bread, and set them into an oven; when they are bak’d and of a fine brown colour, draw them out of the oven, take off all the fat, pour a sauce of Anchovies under them, and serve them for a dish of the first course.

 

 

Soles with Lettuce

 

Farce and dress your Soles in the same manner as is directed above in the Receipt, Soles Farced, with a Ragoo of Crayfish.  Take two or three dozen Hearts of Cabbage-Lettuce, and having blanched them in scalding water, throw them into cold; take them out, squeeze them, and cut them in two, toss them up in a saucepan with a little fresh Butter, moisten them with Fish broth, season them with Salt, pepper and a bunch of Sweet herbs; set them to simmer over a gentle fire, and when they are done, take off the fat, bind them with a brown Cullis; see that your Ragoo be well relish’d and put it into the dish in which you intend to serve your Soles, which being bak’d and of a fine brown colour, lay them on your Lettuce and serve them warm for the first course.

 

 

 

To make Soop de Sante, The French Way

 

Put over twelve pounds of Beef, season’d moderately with Spices and Salt; boil it till your Broth is strong, strain it out to a good knuckle of Veal blanch’d; then boil it up a second time, putting your Pullet to it that you design to serve in the middle of your Soop; let it boil till it comes to the strength of a jelly; put to it in the boiling a bit of Bacon, that is not rusty, stuck with six cloves.  Your broth being thus ready, at the same time make a pan of good gravy, thus.  Take a stewpan or brass dish place in the bottom of it a quarter of a pound of Bacon, cut in Slices, clean from rust, likewise the bigness of half an Egg of Butter; take five or six pounds of fillet of Veal and cut it in slices, twice as thick as you do for Scotch Collops, and place it on your Bacon in your stewpan, covering all the bottom over.  If you have no Veal, use Buttock-Beef.  Set it over a clear fire, not very hot, and let it colour by degrees.  Give it an hour and a half to colour.  When it begins to crack, put a little of the fat of your boiling broth to it; stir it as little as possible because it makes it thick, and throw in three or four sliced Onions, one Carrot, two Turnips, a little Parsley, a sprig of Thyme, a little whole Pepper and Cloves.  All these ingredients being fry’d together till you think it comes to a good colour, if in summer, a few Mushrooms will give it a good taste.  When it is of a good colour, add to it your boiling broth from your knuckle of Veal, leaving some to keep your Veal and Pullet white, to soak your bread with it for your soop, and other uses in the kitchen.  Your broth and gravy being in readiness, take such herbs as the Country where you are will afford; such as Celery, endive, Sorrel, a little Chervil or Cabbage Lettuce, well pick’d and wash’d, mince them down with your mincing knife, and squeeze the water from them; place them in a little pot, or deep saucepan; put to them so much of your broth and gravy, as will just cover them; let them boil tender; then take the crusts of two French Rolls, and boil them up with three pints of Gravy, and strain it through a strainer or sieve, and put it to your Herbs; if you have no French Bread to thicken it with, take the bigness of an egg of Butter, a small handful of flour, and brown it over the fire, and a little minced Onion, if the eaters be lovers of it; if not, let the Onion that was in your gravy serve.  Add to your brown some gravy, and boil it, and strain it thro’ a sieve to your Herbs, instead of French Bread.  Let your Herbs be pretty tender, before you put your thickening in.  Boil all together half an hour, and skim off the fat.  Place in the bottom of your dish that you intend to serve your soop in some French Bread in slices, or the crust dry’d before the fire, or in an oven; boil it up with some of your Broth; so put your Fowl and Herbs on the top of it.  Let your garnishing be a rim on the outside of it, of Celery or Endive tender boil’d in good broth, and cut in pieces about three inches long; if you cannot spare Herbs, take a bit of forc’d meat and boil’d Carrot to garnish it. So serve it hot.  Take care there is no fat on it.  This is a summer or a winter soop, where you can have Herbs.  This is the Soop the French call soupe de Sante, i.e. healthful or wholesome soop.

 

 

To make Soop de Sante, The English Way

 

Your broth and gravy being ready as in the above Receipt, instead of Herbs, take Carrots and Turnips and cut them in square slices, an inch long, and the bigness of a quill; blanch them off in boiling water, but blanch the carrots more than the turnips, the last only two or three boils, and strain them out in a colander from the water they were blanch’d in; then take two quarts of gravy, the crust of two French rolls, and boil them as before directed, strain it through a strainer or sieve, and put it to the Carrots and Turnips; let them boil gently in it over the fire till they are tender; your bread being soak’d in your dish, put in the middle of it a knuckle of Veal, or a Pullet or Chicken.  Let your garnishing be Carrot or Turnip cut in small dice and boil’d tender; skim off the fat.  So serve it.

 

To make a meagre Soop de Sante for Fish Days

 

Provide your Herbs as in the Receipt for the Soop de Sante after the French way; toss them up in Butter and a little Onion; take off all the fat; put to them some water from boil’d peas, or fair water boiling hot, and boil them very tender; when you are ready to serve, put to them a brown of Flour, prepar’d above.  Lay in the middle of your dish a French roll fry’d, the crumb being taken out at the bottom; cover the bottom of your dish with the crust of French rolls, lay your Herbs upon it, then fill the

dish with the Soop, let is simmer a while over a stove to soak the Bread, garnish it with Carrots and Turnips, so serve it.

 

 

To make a White Soop for Fish Days

 

Take six heads of Endive, a handful of Sorrel a little Chervil, Parsley, and Onion, wash them all clean and mince them small; then stew them down in a saucepan with a quarter of a pound of Butter, for a quarter of an hour; then add two quarts of boiling water, or water from boil’d peas.  Your herbs being boil’d tender, skim the fat off, and thicken them with the yolks of ten or twelve Eggs, according to the bigness of your dish; scrape in a Nutmeg, and add the juice of a Lemon, if your Sorrel is not sharp enough.  Your bread being soak’d in your dish, put in the middle of it a French Roll fry’d.  Let your garnishing be eight or ten poach’d Eggs, and fry’d bread betwixt them on the outside of your rim on the dish, cut in small dice; you may put a poach’d Egg on the top of your French Roll in the middle of your soop, being just thicken’d up with your Eggs hot over the fire.  Take your dish off the fire and set it on the table, before you fill it up, that your Eggs may not curdle in your Soop.  So serve it.

 

 

To make a Pease-Soop or Puree as the French call it

 

Take some good Broth, made of Veal, Fowl, and Beef, as in the first Receipt; if in summer, take green Pease; if they be very young, give them but a little boil in water, strain them out, and pound them in a mortar; make a cullis in a saucepan with the things following.  A quarter of a pound of Butter, half a quarter of a pound of Bacon cut in small dice, two Onions slic’d, a sprig of Thyme, a little Parsley, the crust of a French Roll, a little whole Pepper and Cloves; fry all these over the fire gently, till your bread is pretty crisp, but take care you burn not your Herbs.  This being done, add to it two or three quarts of broth, according to the quantity of your Pease, and bigness of your dish; so boil it up and skim the fat off, before you put in your beaten Pease, then mix your Pease in your Cullis over the fire, and let them boil up together, so strain them through a strainer or sieve; this being done and your Bread soak’d in your dish, you may put in your dish a Duck or Ducklings, a green Goose, or Pigeons, or a knuckle of Veal.  Let your garnishing be Cucumbers split and the Cores taken out, boil’d tender in good broth, round a rim of paste or forc’d meat.  If your Pease be very young, you may put a few whole ones in your strained Puree, being first tender boiled in water or small broth.  So serve it.  In the winter time, you take blue pease, and boil them first tender in Water, and then strain them out from it, and put them into your Cullis of Broth and ingredients above mentioned, only colouring it with a little juice of Spinach instead of green Pease; in your strained Puree you may use the tops of Asparagus cut in bits and tender boil’d.  Your garnishing, Asparagus; you may stew a little Sorrel in this Puree. So serve it.

 

 

To make a Pease-Soop for Fish Days

 

Provide and order your Pease according to the directions in the last Receipt, only instead of the Broth and other ingredients of flesh, make use of the meagre broth, for which we have given directions and instead of the Fowl in the middle of your Soop put a French Roll fry’d in Butter.  Your Puree must be of the thickness of Cream; and forget not to make your Bread simmer and soak well in the dish.  Let your garnishing be a rim of Paste and cut Lemon round it.

 

 

To make Soop au Bourgeois

 

Having good Broth and gravy in readiness, take four bunches of Celery, and ten heads of Endive wash them clean and take off the outside; cut them in pieces an inch long, and swing them well from the water.  This soop may be made brown or white; if you intend it brown, put your Herbs into two quarts of boiling Gravy, having first blanched them in boiling water five or six minutes; then take the crust of two French Rolls boil it up in three pints of Gravy, strain it through a strainer or sieve, and put it to the herbs, when they are almost ready; for that is to be minded in all Soops, that your thickening is not to be put in, till your herbs are almost tender; you may put in the middle of your Soop a Pullet or Chickens.  Let your garnishing be a rim and on the outside some of your Celery cut in pieces three inches long, your Bread being soak’d in some good broth or gravy, and your Herbs boiling hot.  So serve it.  This is what the French call Soupe au Bourgeois, i.e. The Citizens Soop.

 

 

To make Soop au Bourgeois in the Spring, when there is no Celery nor Endive

 

Take twelve Cabbage-Lettuce, six green Cucumbers, pare them and take the cores out, cut both cucumbers and Lettuce in little bits about an inch long, scald them off in boiling water, and put them to clear, strong broth; let them boil tender with a handful of Green Pease.  The Fowl that you intend to put in the middle of your soop you may boil with your Herbs; skim the fat off, boil your Bread with some of the same Broth.  Let your garnishing be Cucumbers and Lettuce.  Use no thickening in this Soop.  So serve it.

 

 

To make a Turnep-Soop

 

Having good Veal gravy in readiness, take some good turnips, pare them and cut them in dice, one or two dozen, according to their size, and the bigness of your dish; fry them of a brown colour in clarify’d butter or Hogs Lard.  Take two quarts of good gravy, and the crusts of two French Rolls, boil’d up together and strain’d through a fine strainer.  Your Turneps being strain’d from the fat they were fry’d in put them together, boil them till tender.  You may roast a duck to put in the middle.  Let your garnishing be a rim, on the outside of it some small dic’d Turneps boil’d white in broth, and betwixt every parcel of them, a piece of fry’d Turneps in shape of Cocks- comb.  Soak your bread in some good fat and gravy; and serve it.

 

 

To make a Soop of Savoys or Cabbage

 

Let your Savoys be cut in four pieces, and three parts boil’d in fair water; then squeeze them when cold, with your hand, clean from the water; place them into a large saucepan or little brass dish, such a quantity as your dish will hold; there must be room betwixt each piece of Savoy to take up soop with a large spoon.  Put them a boiling with as much Broth or Gravy as will cover them.  Set them a stewing over the fire two hours before dinner.  At the same time, take a saucepan with a quarter of a pound of Butter, put it over the fire with a handful of flour, keep it stirring till it is brown; put to it two minced Onions, and stir it a little afterwards; then put to it a quart of Veal Gravy, boil it a little, and pour it all over your Savoys.  You may force Pigeons betwixt the skin and the body with good forc’d meat, made of Veal; or you may take a Duck or Ducklings, being truss’d up for boiling; then fry them off, and put them stewing with your Savoys.  Let a little Bacon, stuck with Cloves be put in with them to stew.  Let your garnishing be a rim, and on the outside of it slices of Bacon, a little savoy betwixt each slice.  Taking the fat clean off, soak your bread in your dish, with some good broth or gravy; place your Savoys at a due distance, and your fowl in the middle.  So serve it.

 

 

To make Soop with Vermicelly

 

Take two quarts of good broth made of Veal and Fowl, put to it about half a quarter of a pound of Vermicelly, a bit of Bacon stuck with Cloves; take the bigness of half an Egg of Butter, and rub it together with half a spoonful of flour, and dissolve it in a little Broth to thicken your Soop; boil a pullet or Chickens for the middle of your Soop.  Let your garnishing be a rim, on the outside of it cut Lemon, soak your Bread in your dish with some of the same broth.  Take the fat off, and put your Vermicelly in your dish.  So serve it.

 

You may make a Rice-Soop the same way, only your Rice being first boil’d tender in water and it must boil an hour in strong Broth, but half an hour will boil the Vermicelly.

 

 

To make Soop-Lorraine

 

Having very good broth made of Veal and Fowl, and strain’d clean, take a pound of Almonds, and blanch them, pound them in a mortar very fine, putting to them a little Water to keep them from oiling as you pound them, and the Yolks of four Eggs tender boil’d and the lean of the Legs and Breast of a roasted Pullet or two.  Pound all together very fine; then take three quarts of very good Veal Broth, and the crust of two French Rolls cut in slices; let them boil up together over a clear fire, then put to it your beaten Almonds, let them just boil up together, strain it through a fine strainer to the thickness of a Cream, as much as will serve the bigness of your dish; mince the Breasts of two roasted Pullets, and put them into a loaf as big as two French Rolls, the top cut off, and the crumb cut out; season your Hash with a little Pepper and Salt, a scraped Nutmeg, and the bigness of an egg of Butter, together with five or six spoonfuls of your strain’d almonds; let the Bread that you put in the bottom of your Soop be French bread dry’d before the fire or in an oven.  Soak it with clear Broth, and a little of your strain’d Soop; place your loaf in the middle, put in your hash warm; you may put four Sweetbreads, tender boil’d about your Loaf, if you please.  Let your garnishing be a rim, and slic’d Lemon.  So serve it.

 

 

To make a Crayfish Soop

 

Your Crayfish being boil’d, pick the shells off of the tails of the, and leave the bodies, tails and legs together, prepare two dozen in this manner to garnish your dish; if your dish is large, you ought to have a hundred Crayfish.  Pick the tails out of the rest from the shells; put them in a saucepan; then you’ll find a little bag at the end next to the claws, which is bitter like gall, that you must take care to throw away; likewise you must throw away anything that is white and woolly in the belly.  Then put the shells in a marble or wooden mortar, and pound them to a paste.  While your Shells are thus pounding, put in a large saucepan or stewpan, three quarters of a pound of Butter, the crust of two French rolls, three or four Onions slic’d, two dozen corns of whole Pepper, one dozen of Cloves, a Sprig of Thyme, and a handful of Parsley; fry these ingredients softly over the fire half a quarter of an hour, till your bread is crisp, but take care you do not burn your herbs.  At the same time take care to prepare your fish for your stock which is to be two Carps, two Eels and a Thornback; if you cannot have Carp, you must use whitings or Flounders in the place of Carp, with your Eel and Thornback; skin the Carps and Eels, and cut the thick fish from the back of your Carp and save it to make a forc’d meat of, and likewise save the head and bones of your Carp as you can, in order to be forc’d in the middle of your Soop.  Then chop your Eel to pieces, and skinn’d Thornback, or what other fresh Fish you have, to the quantity of four or five pound weight; and put them to your above mention’d ingredients, set them a stewing over the fire, and let them stew half an hour together, stirring them now and then that they burn not to the bottom.  When the rawness is fry’d off of the fish, then pour in four or five quarts of boiling water or broth, and season it moderately with Salt; let it boil half an hour, then skim all the fat off, and take up, with a skimmer, all the crust of Bread that was fry’d from the Fish, and two quarts of your fish Broth, and put to your pounded Crayfish; boil it over the fire with your fish Broth, and strain it thro’ a fine strainer, to the thickness of a Cream; if your strainer is not fine, your Soop will prove gritty with the shells.  To prevent that, let it stand a little in the dish you strain it in, and pour it softly into a saucepan; so the grit with stay behind.  Put the remainder of your shells that is in your strainer, to your fry’d fish and the remainder of your stock, stirring it together; strain it into another saucepan and save it to soak your bread with; for it will be thinner, and not of such a high colour as the former.  Your stock being thus getting in readiness, cause the fish that you cut off the back of your Carp to be minced fine, and add to it three or four butter’d Eggs, the crumb of a French Roll, boil’ Milk or Cream a boil’d Onion and a little Parsley minced fine, the bigness of an Egg of Butter, a little Pepper and Salt, scrape in a Nutmeg, and squeeze in half a Lemon; mince all these together to a paste, then force the bodies of your Carps, where you cut your fish off into the same shape as they were, smoothing them over with your hand and a beaten Egg, pour over a little melted butter, strew over it a little handful of grated Bread, then bake it three quarters of an hour before you have occasion for it, buttering the bottom of your pan or mazarine you bake it in.  Let your bread be cut in thin slices, and dry’d before the fire, or in an oven, and soak’d in some of your thin stock; then take your Carp up from the fat, and place it in the middle of your dish; then put the tails of your pick’d Crayfish into your best stock; boil it up only over the fire, before you send it away squeeze in half a Lemon, then pour it round your bak’d Carp in your Pottage-Dish.  Let your garnishing be a rim of the same forc’d Meat, or if it is scarce, take lean paste and lay on the outside of it the two dozen of Crayfish mentioned in the beginning of the Receipt, having first heated them in a little of your stock; so serve it.

 

I would not have been so large in this receipt, but you are to take notice, to make the stock for any other Fish Soop the same way as you do for this, and likewise the forc’d Meat.  All the difference will be in the middle, in the garnishing and likewise in the colour, for only crayfish or Lobster Soop can be of a red Colour.

 

 

To make a Lobster Soop

 

Make a forc’d meat of Fish as in the last Receipt, only instead of Carps, you may take Tenches, Pikes, Trout’s, or Whitings and Flounders; or what other fresh Fish the country where you are, can afford, to the value of four or five pound weight.  Make your stock of it as you are directed in the preceding Receipt, keep your forc’d meat clean from bones as possibly you can, and make it up in bigness of a double French Roll being hollow in the middle, and open on the top; bake it half an hour before you use it, place it in the middle of your soop.  At the same time pound the spawn of your lobsters, (being two or four of them, according to the bigness of your dish) and strain it with your Cullis, as you did your crayfish Soop; and take the meat of your Lobsters, and cut it in large dice; warm it up in a saucepan with a little of the Cullis, a little Pepper and Salt, squeeze in a Lemon, and add a little Butter, put it in your forc’d load in the middle of your Soop.  Your bread being soak’d and your Cullis hot, squeeze in a little Lemon; and dish it up.  Let your garnishing be a rim of paste, and on the outside of it lay some cut Lemon.  So serve it.

 

 

To make a Muscle-Soop

 

Take a quantity of Muscles, make them clean, boil them and pick them out of the shells; then wash them again and put them into a saucepan.  Take three or four pounds of fresh Fish and a Cullis, as for the Crayfish Soop and strain it through a sieve to the thickness of a Cream; put a little of it to your Muscles; cut off the top of a French Roll, take out the crumb, and fry it in a little Butter; place it in the middle of your soop, your bread being soak’s with some of your Cullis.  Let your garnishing be a rim of paste; lay the muscle-shells round the outside of it; thicken up your Muscles with the Yolk of an Egg, as you do a Fricassee, and put one or two in each shell, round your Soop; likewise fill up the loaf in the middle, the Cullis being boiling hot, squeeze into that, and on the Muscles, a little Lemon.  So serve it.

 

You may make a Cockle-Soop the same way.

 

 

To make a Scate or Thornback Soop

 

Make your stock or Cullis as you did for your Crayfish Soop only you have shells to put in it for colouring; your Scate or Thornback being skin’d, take a pound of the best of the fish from bones, cut it to pieces, and throw it into your Cullis, with some other fresh fish, such as the country affords.  Your Cullis being strain’d off ready, as for your Crayfish Soop, to the thickness of a Cream, mince the lean part of the fish you cut from the bones, and put it over the fire in a little saucepan with a little Butter, Pepper and Salt, stirring it till the raw is off of it; then mince it with your knife on a clean table the second time, and put it in your saucepan again; if it is good fish, it will eat as tender as a chicken hash’d; put a little Lemon to it and place it in a French roll in the middle of your Soop; put your Cullis being hot, and your bread soak’d in the bottom of your dish, squeeze in some lemon.  Let your garnishing be a rim on the outside.  So serve it.

 

 

To make Soop de Profitrolle

 

Make some good Broth and Gravy in the same manner as is directed in the Receipt for making Soop de Sante the French way.  If you dish is large, take four Partridges; if small, two; if you have no Partridges, take two Pheasants, and roast them; when they are roasted, take the lean of the breasts of one of the Pheasants, or of two of the partridges, and make a hash of it; put it in the middle of a French Roll, the top taken off, the crum taken out and fry’d; season your hash with a little broth, a bit of Butter, Pepper and Salt, a scraped Nutmeg and the juice of a Lemon; save the breasts cut from the back of two of your partridges or of one of your Pheasants whole, and take off the skin of them, take besides two whole Sweetbreads; place the loaf in the middle of your dish with the hash, and let the two breasts and two Sweetbreads be plac’d over against one another; put the bones of your Partridges or Pheasants in a mortar and pound them, keeping out the Rumps, if they are stale, or taste of the Green Corn.  Make your Cullis of a quarter of a pound of Butter, the crusts of two French rolls, two Onions slic’d and a little whole Pepper and Cloves; fry all this gently over the fire a quarter of an hour; then add to it two quarts of Veal-Gravy, boil it up and skim the fat off; put to it your pounded Bones, boil all up together and strain it through a fine strainer, rubbing it with your ladle to the thickness of a Cream; warm your Sweetbreads and breasts of Partridges in the same Cullis.  Let your garnishing be a rim and Lemon; all things being made boiling hot, squeeze a little Lemon into the Cullis, and serve it.

 

 

To make Soop-Julienne

 

Roast a leg of Mutton, take off the fat and the skin; put it into a pot of a bigness answerable to the quantity of Broth you intend to use, and that may be sufficient to boil the following ingredients which you are to put to your leg of Mutton, viz three or four pounds of a Buttock of Beef, half a fillet of Veal, one Capon, two Carrots, two Parsnips, two Turnips, some roots of Parsley, some Celery, and two large Onions stuck with Cloves; let all this boil together a great while that your broth may be very strong; boil in another little pot three or four bunches of Asparagus, some Sorrel and Chervil, to which you must give two or three cuts with your knife; boil this with some of the broth taken out of your other pot.  Take care to soak your Bread very well, lay your Asparagus, Sorrel and Chervil upon it and your Capon in the middle, so serve it without any garnishing.

 

We likewise sometimes make this soop-Julienne with a breast of Veal, Pigeons and other Meat, which having first blanch’d them off, we boil in good broth with a fagot of Sweet Herbs, together with the roots and herbs mention’d above, and the green of the stalks of Asparagus, cut in pieces no bigger than large Pease, with which we garnish the soop.

 

 

 

For a plate, take two handfuls of Sorrel, well pick’d and wash’d put it into a saucepan with a little bit of Butter, and a dust of flour, a little Pepper and Salt, scrape in a Nutmeg amongst it, stew it a quarter of an hour before you use it; pour on it two or three spoonfuls of drawn Butter.  Garnish it with hard Eggs cut in quarters, one end of the Sorrel and the other end of the side of the dish, the Yolk-side up, so serve it.  It is proper for supper, or second course at dinner.

 

 

 

To make Spinage Rofa Solis

 

Take for a plate the bigness of two Eggs of boil’d spinage, squeeze it well from the water, mince it fine, and put to it the bigness of a Yolk of an Egg, of Sugar as big as half a Yolk, of Butter, and two Spoonfuls of Cream; mince an ounce of Citron very small, with the Yolks of two hard Eggs; take a little Salt, a scraped Nutmeg, and a little beaten Cinnamon; warm all these Ingredients over the fire in a saucepan, set it to cool, and make a paste as follows.  Take two raw Eggs, two spoonfuls of Milk a little Salt, the bigness of a Nutmeg of Sugar; work this to a paste of flour and roll it up as thin as for a Tart, or rather thinner; cut your paste in square pieces as big as the palm of your hand, and lay on each piece a spoonful of your above mentioned ingredients, wetting your paste round the spinage. Turn half the paste over the Spinage, and pinch it handsomely round, half moon fashion, close it well with your finger that it is open not in dressing; cut it round with a runner or Jagg.  You may fry them in Hogs Lard or clarify’d butter, as you do fritters; or you may boil them in boiling water; a quarter of an hour will boil them.  If they are boil’d when you dish them up you may throw over them a little grated bread and Cheese; if they are fry’d grate only a little sugar over them so serve them.  They are proper for second course in a little dish or plate; or for supper.

 

 

To dress Spinage with or without Eggs

 

Your Spinage being well pick’d and wash’d, blanch it off a quarter of an hour in boiling water, then strain it out, squeeze it well from the water, and mince it fine; if it is as big as a French roll when it is minced, you may put to it half a pint of Cream, a quarter of a pound of Butter, a little Pepper and Salt, and a scraped Nutmeg; stew it over the fire a quarter of an hour before you use it, then put it in your plate or little dish, and stick round about it a French roll, cut in bits like your finger, and fry’d brown; lay on the top of it six poach’d Eggs; so serve it for second course, or for supper.

 

 

To make Spinage-Toasts

Your Spinage being prepar’d as in the last Receipt, put it into a marble mortar, with four spoonfuls of Apples boil’d to a Marmelade, two coarse biskets soak'd in Cream, three raw Eggs, four Yolks of Eggs hard boil’d a little Sugar and Salt; pound all these fine together, then take it up in a plate, put to it a small handful of currants, pick’d and washed clean, and four spoonfuls of melted Butter; then put it on handsome toasts, four inches long, and two broad.  Let the toasts and Spinage be about an inch high, wet it over with the white of an Egg and put them on a mazarine or Patty-pan, the bottom being butter’d.  Or you may form your toasts without bread under them.  About half an hour will bake them, a dozen for a plate; scrape over them a little Nutmeg, and squeeze upon them half an Orange.  So serve them for second course or supper.

 

 

To boil Spinage

 

Having wash’d and drain’d it well, put it into a pot or Pipkin, which set into a kettle of water, and make it boil till the Spinage is tender, putting no liquor to the Spinage but only stewing it in its own juice.  Or you may boil it in a tin box which shut close so as to let no liquor come in and either boil it in a kettle or in a pot with Beef or Mutton, etc.  Some stew green Pease in the same manner.

 

 

 

To dress Veal-Sweetbreads a la Dauphine

 

Take the largest you can get and having blanch’d them in hot water, throw them into cold; then slit them in two sideways; make holes in them, and farce them with some of the forced meat, for which you have the receipts in letter F.  Garnish the bottom of a saucepan with Bards of Bacon and Slices of Veal, seasoned with Salt, Pepper, Sweet Herbs and Spices, some whole Chives a little minced Parsley and a sliced Onion; lay in your farced Sweetbreads, season and cover them over as under, so let them to stew a la braise.    Meanwhile take a dozen large Cocks-combs and having pick’d them very clean, slit them down with the point of your knife, farce them with some of the same forc’d meat, toss them up in a saucepan with a little melted Bacon, some small Mushrooms, some sliced Truffles and a bunch of Sweet herbs; season them with Salt and Pepper put to them some good gravy, and stew them softly in it. When they are enough, take off the Fat and bind your Ragoo with a Cullis of Veal and Ham.  When your Sweetbreads are stew’d take them up and drain them, then lay them handsomely in a dish garnish them with a rim of the Cockscombs, pour on them the rest of the Ragoo, and serve them hot for the first course.

 

Sometimes, instead of the above Ragoo, we serve them with one of Crayfish, or of Oysters.

 

 

To roast Veal-Sweetbreads

 

Lard them with small Lardons, run a skewer through them, fasten them to a spit and roast them till they are very brown; then lay them in a dish, in which you have put some essence of a Ham, or good Gravy, so serve them.

 

 

To fry Veal-Sweetbreads

 

After having blanch’d and cut each Sweetbread in three or four pieces, lay them in a dish with an Onion cut in slices, some whole Chives and a Bayleaf, Salt, pepper, two or three Cloves, and juice of Lemon; let them marinate in this for two hours; meanwhile make a batter as follows. Put into a pan one handful of flour, and a little Salt, beat it into Batter with fair water, and one Egg; melt as big as a Walnut of Butter, and add to it; take care it be not too thick nor too thin; take the Sweetbreads out of the marinade, and having dry’d them well between two napkins, put them into the batter; heat some Hogs Lard in a frying pan, and put in your pieces of Sweetbread one by one, draining them well from the batter; when they are fry’d brown, take them up and drain them; then fry some Parsley; lay a napkin in a dish, place your Sweetbreads upon it, and the fry’d Parsley in the middle, so serve them for plates or little dishes

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