After having gutted them, either slit or gash them along the back, and then lay them a while in Salt and Oil, pepper and fennel; wrap them up in the same Fennel and broil them. Let you Sauce be clarify’d Butter, savoury herbs hash’d very small, Nutmeg, Salt, Fennel, Gooseberries, Capers and a drop of Vinegar. At another time, when they are broil’d, serve them with fry’d Parsley, clarify’d butter, Salt, pepper, and a drop of Vinegar.
We likewise serve them in Soop, after having for that purpose fry’d them in clarify’d Butter, and then made them simmer in good Broth either of Fish or herbs: let your garnishing be a Ragoo of Mushrooms and some Capers.
Is a sort of sauce or pickle, in which we steep certain things, whose taste we would heighten, and render more agreeable to the palate: We marinade many sorts of things, wither to garnish other dishes, or to make dishes of them. We garnish your Fricasses of Chickens with marinated Chickens; a marinade of Veal serves us to garnish a farced Breast of Veal, or a loin of Veal roasted; In like manner of Pigeons, partridges, etc. which we likewise serve for dishes of the first course.
To make a Marinade of Chickens
Cut your Chickens in quarters, and lay them to marinate for three hours in juice of Lemon, and Verjuice or Vinegar, Salt, Pepper, Cloves, Chives and Bayleaves. Then make a batter with Flour, Salt, Water, one or two Eggs, and some melted Butter; and having well beaten all this together, drain your Chickens well and dry them with a clean Napkin, dip them in Butter, and fry them in Hogs Lard: When they are come to a good colour, lay them in a dish with fry’d Parsley, and serve them for the first course, or Hors- d’Oeuvres; or use them for garnishings.
Note: We sometimes drudge them well with Flour, instead of dipping them in batter; but then the Hogs Lard must be very hot, before you put them into the pan.
To marinate Pigeons and Partridges
We marinate Pigeons and Partridges just as we do chickens, except that we only slit the Pigeons down the back, and cut the Partridges in two. We fry and use them likewise in the same manner.
To marinate Veal-Cutlets
Cut your Cutlets as for broiling; steep them for two or three hours in Vinegar, and a little of the Fat of Broth, season’d with pepper, Salt, some whole Cloves, slices of Onion and Lemon, Bayleaves, Parsley and one whole Leek; then drain them well, wipe them with a linen cloth, dip them in Batter made as above, or else drudge them well with flour; fry them and use them as you do your marinated Chickens.
To marinate Fish
We likewise marinate fish in the same manner; then we drudge them with Flour, fry them in clarify’d butter and serve them with fry’d Parsley; or with the following sauce. Toss up in clarify’d Butter, some slices of Lemon or Orange, together with some Chives, Salt, pepper, Nutmeg and Vinegar, and pour it on your Fish, such as Soles, Plaice, etc. So serve them.
To make Marrow-pasties
Shred the Marrow and some Apples together, and put a little Sugar to them; put them into a puff-paste and fry them in a pan with fresh butter, and serve them up to the Table with a little white Sugar strew’d on them. Your butter that you fry them in must be clarify’d, else they will not be good.
To make a Marrow Tart
Take the Yolks of hard Eggs, and mince them with Pippins, and the Marrow cut in small dice; then take some Sugar, Cinnamon, Cordicitron and Orange-peel minc’d very small, and a little Salt; Mix all this together, squeeze in the Juice of a Lemon, and fill up your Tart Patty-pans with it.
To make Rosa Solis of Marrow
Cut the Marrow in little dice, and mince it very small together, with as much of a Pippin, as you have Marrow, and half that quantity of the Yolks of hard boil’d Eggs; mince likewise some Cordicitron, and the Rind of half a Lemon, very small; add to this some Sugar, Salt, a little Milk or Cream, and Nutmeg. Mix all together, and you may make Tarts, petty-patties, or Rosa Solis of it, according as your present use required.
Take a Carp, an Eel, some Tench, Pike, Barbel in short, what fish you can get and judge proper for your purpose. After having gutted and scaled them, cut them in pieces, lay them in a stewpan with some Truffles and Mushrooms, an Onion stuck with Cloves, some Chives and Parsley, Bayleaves, and a little Basil. Season this with Salt and Pepper, put to it some White wine, a little fish broth, or Juice of Onion, but just enough to cover the fish. Then set it over a quick fire, and when the Court Bouillon is half-way wasted away, put some Butter, ore or less according to the quantity of your Fish, into a Saucepan, and brown in it a little flour, then empty the liquor of your matelotte into that saucepan, mix your Brown and that well together, and pour the whole back again into your Matelotte, and keep it stewing till ‘tis enough done. Then put to is some Crayfish or other meagre Cullis, lay it handsomely in a dish, and serve it warm for first course.
Take a pound and a half of sweet Almonds with twelve bitter almonds; blanch and pound them in a Mortar, sprinkling them from time to time with milk for fear they turn; when they are well pounded, take three pints of Milk, make it lukewarm, mix your Almonds well with it, and strain it through a sieve as much as you can; then pour your Almond milk into a saucepan, put to it a stick of Cinnamon, set it over a stove, make it boil to a Cream, keeping continually stirring it with a spoon; when it begins to thick, sweeten it with sugar and add a little salt. When you are going to serve, lay in the dish in which you intend to serve it, some small crusts of bread, no bigger than a sixpenny piece, pour your almond-Milk upon them and serve it hot. This is generally serv’d only for Collations; but when we would serve it at meals we make it quite differently as follows.
When your Almonds are pounded, take a pint of milk, and a pint of Cream, boil them together in a sauce pan with a stick of Cinnamon, a zest or two of lemon, a little Salt, and some Sugar; mix your Almonds well with it, and strain the whole through a sieve, with six new laid Eggs; then kindle a stove and put over a sauce pan full of water; when it begins to boil, lay over it the dish you intend to serve it in; let the dish be bigger than the saucepan for fear the water should boil in; pour your Almond-Milk into the dish which you then cover with the lid of a tartpan of a convenient size and put live Coals upon it. Lift up the cover from time to time, to see that is be not done too much; and when it is grown thick, take off the saucepan, set it by to cool, and serve it cold in plates or little dishes.
Are not a plant, but rather an Excrement of the Earth that grows in woods; we find them generally in the months of March and April when they grow at the foot of trees. We use them in most of our Ragoos, patties, etc as also in particular dishes; but seeing they are only a sort of red mushroom, we shall treat of them under that article, to which we refer the reader.
Are a certain fish, of which there are two sorts, the Sea Mullet, and the River Mullet; they are both of them equally good and dressed as follows:
To broil Mullets
After having scal’d and gutted them, we cut gashes in the sides of them; dip them in melted Butter, and then broil them. We make a Sauce with clarify’d Butter, fry’d Flour, Capers, slices of Lemon, a Faggot of Herbs, pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, and verjuice or Juice of Orange.
To fry Mullets
Boil the fish, but lay by the Roes and Livers. When the fish is boil’d pour away most part of the water, and put the rest in a Pint of Claret, some Salt and Vinegar, and two sliced Onions, with a bundle of Winter-Savoury, Marjoram and Thyme, sliced Nutmeg, broken Mace and the Juice of a Lemon; boil all these well together, then put in the fish, and when you judge that it tastes strong of the ingredients, put in three or four anchovies, and serve it up with stew’d Oysters.
To make a Ragoo of Muscles
Having wash’d and scrap’d them very clean, toss them up in a Saucepan with fresh Butter, season’d with Salt, pepper, parsley, Chives, the chippings of Bread and a little Vinegar; so serve them warm.
A Ragoo of Muscles with white Sauce
Take the Muscles out of their Shells, toss them up in a saucepan with fresh Butter, parsley and savoury Herbs shred very small; season’d with Salt, pepper and Nutmeg; when the liquor of the Muscles is wasted away, put in some Yolks of Eggs with Verjuice, or Juice of Lemon; so serve them.
A ragoo of Muscles with brown Sauce is made in the same manner, except that we then put in no Eggs, we toss Muscles up in a Brown; that is to say, with a little butter and flour.
Are not, properly speaking, of the vegetable kind, but rather an excrescence of the earth, engender’d of certain putrid moistures, but of a hot as well as humid quality. They are of a general use in Ragoos and in many Soops and we make besides particular dishes of them, it behoves therefore to have always a good provision of them. The particular ways of dressing them are as follows:
To force Mushrooms
Stew the tender roots of them, then take them up and drain them, mince them very small add to them Butter and grated bread on them and bake them on a petit, you may garnish either Fricassee or Ragoo with them.
To fry Mushrooms
Toss them up in a saucepan in a little Brother, either of fish, Flesh or Pease, only to deaden them; then strew them over with salt, a little Pepper and Flower, and fry them in Hogs Lard or Butter; so serve them with fry’d Parsley or you may use them for garnishing.
To make a Ragoo of Mushrooms
Cut them in slices, and toss them up in melted Bacon or Butter season’d with Salt, pepper and shred Parsley. Moisten them with some fish-broth, or good Flesh gravy, thicken them with a Cullis either meagre or of flesh, and serve them.
To dress Mushrooms with Cream
Cut your Mushrooms in Pieces, and toss them up over a brisk fire in butter season’d with Salt, Nutmeg and a Bunch of herbs. When they are done enough, and most of the Butter is wasted away, put to them some sweet Cream, and serve them. Then take it off the fire, and having strain’d the liquor into a pan, and season’d it with lemon and Salt, set it by to use as you shall have occasion. The Mushrooms themselves will serve you, either cut in pieces or whole, for your Soops or for Plates or little Dishes, to be serv’d at the first Course.
To pickle Mushrooms
Peel them, and lay them a soaking in fair water; heat some more water in a pot, put in your Mushrooms, with a Faggot of Bay leaves, Chives and Marjoram, and boil them for a Minute; then take them out and drain them well; when they are cold, put them into an earthen pan with some cloves, pepper, onion, Salt, bayleaves, and good vinegar, and keep them close stopped. Purslain, Samphire and French Beans are pickled in the like manner as Mushrooms.
To keep Mushrooms all the Year
When they are pick’d throw them into boiling Water, and give them one boil; then lay them to drain and cool on a Hurdle; when they are cold put them into an earthen pot, with some young Onions, Bayleaves, Basil, Cloves, Nutmeg, Mace and a stick of Cinnamon. Make a pickle with water and Salt, let is stand a couple of hours then pour it into your pot and let it cover your mushrooms. Pour in likewise some clarify’d butter, cover the pot very close, and set it in a cool place. When you would use any of them, lay them a watering in several waters, either lukewarm or cold, till the Salt is all out of them. Then use them for all sorts of uses, as you do when they are newly gather’d.
To fry Morils
Cut them in long slices, and boil them in a little Broth over a gentle fire. When the Broth is wasted away, drudge them with flour, and fry them in Hogs Lard. Make your sauce with what remains of the broth, season’d with Salt and Nutmeg; serve it under your Morils, with some Mutton-Gravy.
To make a Ragoo of Morils
Cut them in long ways as above, wash them in several waters, drain them well, toss them up in a saucepan with a little melted bacon, a little shred Parsley, a bunch of herbs, moisten them with Veal gravy and essence of Ham, of each an equal quantity, and let them simmer in it over a gentle fire. When they are done enough, thicken them with a cullis, season’d with Salt and Pepper, so serve them hot in plates or little dishes.
To farce Morils
Take some middle siz’d Morils, and cut out the stalks; lay them a soaking in water to take out the grit. Make a Farce with the breast of Fowl, a little of a boil’d Ham, some mushrooms, some shred Chives and Parsley, a little blanched bacon, and Beef-Suet, the Yolks of two Eggs, and the crumb of a French roll soak’d in Cream; hash all this together pound it in a mortar, and stuff your Morils with it, on the side of the stalk. Then take a tart pan or a silver dish, garnish the bottom of it with bards of Bacon, and thin slices of Veal seasoned with Salt, pepper, Savoury Herbs, Spice of all sorts and sliced Onion. Lay in your farced Morils, cover them with slices of Veal and Bards of bacon, seasoned as before, and put them to bake in the Oven, or else in a baking cover, with fire over and under them. When they are ready, take them out, and lay them one by one in a dish to drain. Put into another dish some essence of Ham, and lay your Morils over it; so serve them.
To farce a leg of Mutton
Roast a leg of Mutton, take off all the flesh, but leave the bones sticking to one another. Pick out all the fat from the flesh, and hash the flesh with blanch’d Bacon, a little suet or Beef-Marrow, savoury Herbs, Chives and Parsley, the Crumb of a French roll soak’d in cream, and the yolks of three or four Eggs. When all this is well hash’d, season it and pound it in a mortar; put the bone in the dish you intend to serve it in, and lay it so that the knuckle bone may appear; then lay one half of the farce all round it; make a hollow in it, in the shape of a Leg of Mutton; dip your hands in beaten eggs that nothing may stick to them; fill up the hollow with a Ragoo well season’d and toss’d up, of all sorts of garnishings, as Truffles, Morils, Artichoke-bottoms, Sweetbreads, etc. and cover it with the rest of the farce, fashioning it likewise in the form of a leg of Mutton; strew it thick over with Crumbs of Bread, and put it into the oven to colour it; when it is of a fine brown, draw it out of the oven; take clean off all the fat that is round the dish; make a little aperture in the upper part of it, and pour in some good cullis; then close up the hole and serve it hot for the first course.
Another way of farcing a Leg of Mutton
Take a raw leg of mutton and bone it as before, then take a slice or two of veal, and as many of Bacon; a little Beef-Sewet, some Chives and Parsley, two or three Rocamboles, and a little basil; hash all this well together, and season it with salt, pepper, spices, and a little Coriander; mix and pound it all in a Mortar, with Cream, Yolk of Eggs and Crumbs of Bread; when it is well pounded, farce your bone with it, laying it in the shape of a leg of Mutton, and rub it over with the whites of Eggs, and strew upon it some crumbs of Bread. Bake it in the oven, in a silver dish or tart-pan with bards of Bacon under it. Your farce must be pretty firm, otherwise it will break in the oven; when it is bak’d, garnish it with Petty-Patties, Cutlets of Veal farc’d, marinated Chicken, or other proper garnishing.
To dress a Leg of Mutton a la Royale
Having taken off the fat, and the flesh and skin that is about the Shank-bone, lard the leg of Mutton with large lardoons well seasoned; lard likewise at the same time, a round piece of a buttock of Beef, or of a leg of Veal; then season all this very well, drudge it with flour, and put it into boiling Hogs lard to give it a colour. Then put it into a pot with all sorts of savoury herbs, an Onion or two stuck with Cloves, and put in some Broth or Water; cover the pot very close, and let it boil two hours. Meanwhile get ready a Ragoo of Mushrooms, Truffles, Asparagus tops, Artichoke bottoms and Veal sweetbreads, to which put a good Cullis. Take up your Leg of Mutton, lay it in the dish, and cut your piece of beef. Or Veal into slices, to make a rim round your mutton; pour the Ragoo hot upon it, so serve it for first course.
To dress a leg of Mutton with Succory or Cucumbers
Roast your Leg of Mutton, but not too much; meanwhile make a Ragoo with Succory, a little blanch’d and cut in slices. Take some Bacon, and brown a little flour, add to it some good Gravy, a bunch of Herbs, and a drop of Vinegar, season the whole very well, and take care that your Succory turn not black in the dressing. Serve up the leg of Mutton with the Succory under it. You may likewise serve it with a Ragoo of Cucumbers, which you must first marinate and cut in slices; then toss them up as you do your Succory.
If you would not serve your leg of Mutton whole, you may cut it in thin slices, and put them into the ragoo, taking care not to let them boil together, and that the sauce be neither too thick nor too thin. Take off all the fat, and serve it hot.
To dress a Leg of Mutton a la Dauphine
Take off the fat, and all the skin and flesh of the Shank-bone, and scrape it very clean. Then parboil it, and lard it with small Lardons. Put it on the Spit, wrap it round with a sheet of paper, and roast it at a gentle fire; take care that it have a good colour. Serve it for the first course with a good cullis under it, or an essence of Ham; or else with some Ragoo of Legumes, as Succory, cucumbers, young Onions, or the like.
To rowl a Leg of Mutton
First take off all the fat, and the skin and flesh from the shank bone; then cut down the flesh to the middle bone, which you must take out, but leave the meat hanging to the shank-bone. Then spread the flesh till it be about an inch thick, and the breadth of a dish fit to serve it in; lard it with large lardoons well season’d. Next make a farce with the breast of a fowl, or a piece of blanch’d veal, with a little blanch’d bacon, a little beef sewet, some Parsley, Chives and Mushrooms, season’d with salt, pepper, herbs and spices of all sorts; mince all this well together. Put to it the crumb of a French roll soak’d in cream, with the yolks of three or four eggs, and pound it in a mortar; then spread it on your leg of Mutton, which, having first rowl’d it up in the form it had before, bind about with pack thread, and put it a stewing a la Braise, with Bards of bacon at the bottom of your stewpan and slices of Beef well beaten, or of veal, some sliced Onion, Carot, parsnip and Lemon, some Parsley, whole Chives and Bayleaves, season’d with Salt, pepper and Spices; then put in your rowl’d leg of Mutton, cover it in the same manner, and stew it with fire over and under it. When it is ready, serve it with the same Ragoo as the leg of Mutton a la Royale mentioned before.
Sometimes we roast this rowl’d Leg of Mutton; and then as soon as it is rowl’d up, and tied with pack thread, we lard it with small lardoons, put it on the spit, wrap it round with paper, roast it at a gentle fire, taking care to give it a good colour, and serve it with the same cullis, essence of Ham, and Ragoo of legumes under it, as is before mention’d in the Receipt for the dressing a Leg of Mutton a la Dauphine.
You may besides serve a roasted leg of mutton with a sauce Robart, into which you must then put some Capers and Anchovies.
Note: That a shoulder of Mutton may be dress’d all the several ways, directed for dressing a leg.
To roast a Chine of Mutton
Raise up the first skin from the Chine-Bone downwards, and leave it hanging below. Then take some thin slices of the lean of a Gammon of Bacon, season them with Parsley, Chives and white Pepper; lay them one by one on your Chine of Mutton, cover them with some Bards of Bacon, and turn up the skin over them; bind your chine with pack thread, cover it with paper and roast it; when it is almost roasted, drudge it with crumm’d Bread, so serve it with a Ragoo under it.
Note: You may dress a Quarter of Lamb in the same manner.
To make a Carobonado of Mutton
Take a leg of Mutton, raise up the skin, and cut off some slices: Lard them with large Lardons of the Fat and Lean of a ham, well season’d; then stew them a la Braise: when they are enough done, lay them in a dish, and pour on them a Ragoo of Chesnuts, prepar’d as follows. Take the largest Chesnuts you can get, roast them in hot Embers, pull off the husks, put them into a saucepan with some cullis of Veal and Ham, and set them to simmer over a gentle fire. When they are enough, pour them on your carbonaded mutton, and serve it hot for first course.
To dress a Neck of Mutton
Draw it with Parsley and roast it; when it is near roasted, drudge it with Crumbs of Bread, Salt, and white pepper. So serve it with Juice of Orange and good Gravy.
We also boil a Neck of Mutton, then dip it in a thin Batter, fry it with melted Bacon, and serve it with Verjuice and white Pepper.
To make a Gammon of Mutton
Take the largest and fattest leg of Mutton you can get, take off the skin, and cut off the knuckle-bone; then stick it with cloves, bay leaves, and Sage leaves. After this, marinate it in white-wine, and a bunch of herbs, with Salt, pepper, Cloves, Ginger, Nutmeg and Cinnamon, all pounded to a powder. Stop the vessel very close, set it in a cool place, and let your mutton lie in it four and twenty hours; then take it out and drain it. Take a fresh Gammon of Bacon, take off the Sward and some of the fat hanging to it. Powder your Leg of Mutton with Salt, pepper, Cloves, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Ginger and Sage, all pounded; then cover it with the skin of your Ham, which you must sew round the edges; after this smoke it in the chimney four and twenty hours; then boil it in a kettle, with a quart of the clearest of the Wine in which you marinated it, five quarts of water, and a faggot of all sorts of savoury herbs. When it is boil’d enough, take it up, pull off the sward immediately, that the fat of the bacon may stick to the Mutton, which you must serve cold in slices, on plates or little dishes.
To dress sheep’s Rumps a la Sauce Robart
Cut off your Sheep’s Rumps as near the Mutton as you can; six or eight will serve for a plate or little dish; put them a boiling in a pot for the space of three hours with a spoonful of Pepper and Cloves, a good handful of salt, three or four Onions, a bay leaf, a sprig of thyme, and three or four spoonfuls of vinegar; put in these ingredients after your pot is skim’d, only the Salt and Vinegar before; when your rumps are very tender, and season’d in the boiling, take them out, and let them drain on a Colander, dip them in drawn butter, having first scor’d them on both sides with your knife, turn them well in grated bread, and broil them on a gridiron till they are of good colour, then prepare your Sauce Robart as followeth: Put into a saucepan the bigness of an Egg of Butter, when it is almost brown over the fire, put to it a handful of onion minc’d very small; fry them gently till they are brown, and throw in half a spoonful of flour, fry it a little after the flour is in, put to it a ladleful of gravy, a little pepper and salt, boil it up a quarter of an hour before you serve it, skim off the fat just as you serve it; put to it half a spoonful of mustard, a little vinegar, or the juice of half a lemon; so pour the sauce on the bottom of your dish or plate, and lay your rumps on the top of it. Your garnishing may be fry’d Parsley or Lemon, or both. So serve it. It is proper for first or second course. You may do Sheep’s Tongues the same way, or Hogs Feet, or Hogs Face split in two, and tender boil’d as you did your Rumps. This sauce is proper also for roast Pork, or broil’d Pullets or Pidgeons, or any other Fowls; or for a roasted Goose, for them that care not for Apple sauce.
To dress Sheep’s Rump a la Sainte-Menehout
Cover the bottom of a stewpan with Bards of Bacon, and lay over them some slices of Veal and Onion; then lay in your Sheep’s Rumps, and over them some slices of Veal and Onions, and Bards of Bacon, the whole season’d with Salt, pepper, and all sorts of spices and savoury Herbs. Cover the stewpan well, and either set it to stew a la Braise or bake it in an oven. When they are done enough take them out of the stewpan, drudge them well with crumbs of Bread, and broil them. In the mean time prepare a Sauce that we call a Ramolade; it is composed of Anchovies, minc’d Capers, parsley and Chives. Toss up this in good Gravy, a drop of Oil, a Clove of Garlick, and other usual seasonings; then pour it in to a dish and lay the Rumps upon it. So serve them warm. His sauce serves for cold Fowls that we broil on the gridiron, and for many other things.
Sheep’s rumps farc’d and fry’d
When they are stew’d a la Braise or bak’d as above, lay them in a dish, take off all the fat, and wrap them up in the forc’d meat, for which you have the Receipt in Letter F. Art. Forc’d meat: then dip them in beaten Eggs, drudge them with flour, and fry them in Hogs Lard till they have taken a fine brown colour; then dish them up and serve them with fry’d Parsley for first Course.
You may fry them in like manner, after they are stew’d or bak’d as above, without farcing them, and serve them as before.
Note: That we dress Lambs Rumps the same several ways that we do Sheep’s Rumps.
To farce Sheep’s Trotters
Scald them well, and boil them in good Broth with a little Parsley and Chives; but take care not to over-boil them; cut off the two claws, and take out the leg-bones by slitting the skin the whole length of it; spread open those skins. Lay on them some of the forc’d Meat for which you have the Receipt in Letter F then rowl them up one by one, lay them in a dish, sprinkle them with melted suet, drudge them well with flour and brown them in the oven. Then drain off the fat, clean the brim of your dish, pour on them a Ragoo or some Cullis of Mushrooms, and serve them warm in plates or little dishes.
Another way of dressing farced Sheep’s Trotters
When they are farced as above, dip them in beaten Eggs, and drudge them with flour, or bread crumm’d very small, then fry them in Hogs Lard, and serve them with fry’d Parsley, in plates or little dishes.
We serve them likewise with a white sauce, tossing them up in melted Bacon with Salt, pepper, and Nutmeg, together with savoury Herbs and whole Chives, which last we take out before we serve them, whiten your sauce with the Yolks of Eggs and Verjuice; so serve them warm as before.
We have already spoken of Mutton Cutlets in the article Cutlets; and will give directions for Sheep’s Tongues in Letter T. Article Tongues.
