To make a Sugar-Amlet
Beat up the whites of a dozen Eggs and put the yolks to them together with some Lemon peel shred very small. Add to it a little Cream and Salt. Beat it all well together and fry your Amlet. Before you turn it into the dish, drudge it with sugar in the pan and let the brown side lie uppermost in the dish, in which you must first lay a plate turn’d upside down. Then powder it with some Sugar and candy’d Lemon peel, shred very small and at the same time glaze it with a red hot fire shovel, and serve it hot.
To make a Bacon-Amlet
Take some of the lean only of a boil’d Ham, and mince it very small; break eight Eggs, season them with a little Salt, pepper, shred Parsley, and put to them half of your minc’d Ham, and a spoonful of Cream. When you have beaten all this well together, make your Amlet, and lay it in a dish, of which it must cover only the bottom. With the rest of your hash’d Ham make a rim round it; pour on your Amlet some Liquor of a Saingaraz, which see in letter R in the article Rabbets; then serve it hot.
To make an Amlet of a Veal-Kidney
Beat up the whites of eighteen Eggs by themselves, and then mix in the yolks, with some bisket of bitter almonds, some shredded Lemon peel, a little Cream and Sugar. Continue beating your Amlet, take a pan with good butter and pour it in, keep it continually moving over the fire; and when you see it have a good colour underneath, turn it that it may be brown on both sides. Then serve it.
To fierce an Amlet
Take Keney of Veal mince it very small, toss it up with a little Butter and Parsley, season it with pepper and Salt, and the juice of a Lemon, season the Amlet with the same; make Amlets, and put the Kidneys in the middle of the Fierce.
Are a small Sea-Fish, that being pickled in Salt, are brought to us in little Barrels. We commonly serve them in the Nature of Sallads, with Oyl and Vinegar or sliced Lemon, Capers and Olives, and this is the most usual way of eating them. We make a Cullis of Anchovies that we call Ramolade, which serves as an Ingredient to several Ragoos, as well of Flesh as Fish; of which we shall say nothing here; having sufficiently explain’d the Method of making it in the several places where it is proper to use it. Observe only that you may fry the Bones of the Anchovies you have made use of, having first dipp’d them in a Batter, made of Flower and Water, one or two Eggs and a Bit of melted Butter, all mingled together. You may employ them either as Garniture for other Things or serve them for Hors-d’oeuvres with fry’d Parsly and Orange. To keep Anchovies you need only cover them two Inches thick with Bay-Salt.
The best way to make a Sallet of Anchovies
Wash them in fair Water or Wine till the Liquor be clear; then dry them with a Linen Cloth: Take off the Tails and Fins, slip them from the Bones, and having laid them in a Plate, garnish them with young Onions, Parsley, Slices of Lemon, and Beet-Roots: Then beat up some sweet Oil with Lemon-Juice, and pour it on the Anchovies.
To make Anchovy-Sauce for Roast-Meat
Wash, bone and mince the Anchovies; put them into a Sauce-pan with a thin Cutlet of Veal, and another of a Ham of Bacon: Season this with Pepper, heat it hot, then put to it a little Vinegar, and use it.
To make Andoulians
Take the Guts of a Hog, turn and scour them; then lay them to soak in Water 24 Hours: After this wipe them dry, and turn the fat Side outwards; then take some Sage and chop it small; some Salt, pepper, Cloves, Mace and Coriander-Seed, and pound them in a Mortar; mix all these together, and season the fat Sides of the Guts; then turn that Side inward again, and draw one Gut over another to what Bigness you think fit. Then boil them in fair Water, with a Piece of Bacon, Salt and Spice: Tie them faʃt at both Ends, and make them of what Length you please.
To make Andouillets
Mince some Veal, Bacon, Sweet Herbs and the Yolks of Eggs; season it with Pepper, Salt, grated Nutmeg, and beaten Cinnamon, so as to give it a fine Colour: Make them up like Chitterlings, then roast them on a small Spit between Slices of Bacon; keep basting them with their own Dripping, and with the Yolks of Eggs, and some Crumbs of Bread, now with one and then with the other, to give them a fine Crust; serve them up with Mutton-Gravy and Lemon-Juice Granish’d with fry’d Parsly.
To make Pupton of Apples
Marmalade the Apples with Sugar and Cinnamon; then add four or five Yolks of Eggs, a handful of grated Bread; a Piece of Butter; to form it as you please; or you may put in stew’d Pears or Cherries, according to the Season of the Year. So bake it an Hour, and turn it upside down on a Plate for the second Course.
To stew Golden Pippins or other Apples
Cut the Ends of your Pippins, and cut them in two, cut out the Core or Heart, place them in a Sauce-pan with the cut Sides down, in an English Quart of Water, the Bigness of an Egg of Sugar, a Piece of the Rind of a Lemon, cut in small Threads, about two Inches long each, as big as your Finger of Cinnamon; cover it down with a Sheet of Writing-Paper, close to your Liquor; let them simmer over a gentle Fire two Hours till they are very tender. Serve them hot or cold, for a Plate or little Dish. You must remember to pare the Skins off before you stew them. If it is a ripe Golden Pipping, they will be as whole after they are stew’d as before, and as tender as Pap. Place them handsomely on your Plate with a Spoon; lay betwixt each of them a Slice of your cut Lemon-Peel; pour over them as much of your Syrup as your Plate will gently hold, scrape a little Sugar round. So serve it. It is proper for the second Course or Supper.
To bake Apples red the best Way
Having pared the Apples and taken out the Cores, slice them very thin; then put about six Ounces of Sugar (more or less according to the Tartness of the Apples) to about a Pound-weight of Apples; then take about three Penny-worth of Cochineal; beat it very small, and mix it with the Apples; add to this a small stick of Cinnamon; put them into Paste; when baked, butter the Pye, and put in a little Rose-water.
To make Apple Pancakes
Having pared the Apples and cut them in round Slices, fry them in fresh Butter; then beat up twenty Eggs in a Quart of Cream: Put to this, Ginger, Nutmeg and Cinnamon, all well beaten, of each two Drachms, with six Ounces of powder’d Sugar: pour the Batter on them, and when fry’d sprinkle them with Rose-water, and dust them over with Sugar.
To make Apple Tansy
Having pared and cut the Apples in thin round Slices, beat ten Eggs with a Quart of Cream and the Juice of Spinage and Tansy, of each a Quarter of a Pint, and a Spoonful of Rose-Water: When all these are beaten together, pour them on the Apples.
To make Black-Caps
Take twelve good Pippins, cut them in two, cut out the Cores, place them on a Mazarine or Patty-pan with the Skin on and cut side down; put to them four spoonfuls of water, scrape over them some Loaf-Sugar; clamp them into a pretty hot Oven, or under a baking-Cover until the middle part and the apples tender, which will be in three quarters of an hour, if your oven is very hot. Take care it is not pewter Mazarine. Scrape a little sugar over them. They are proper for second course for supper. Or you may garnish your stew’d Pippins with them. So serve them.
To make a Pippin-Fraize
Pare six Pippins, and cut out the Cores with a Pen-knife; cut them in thick slices as for fritters, or rather, thicker, and fry them in a little clarify’d Butter, turn them once, keep ‘em as whole as you can; when they are tender, lay them on a Sieve with your knife, that the fat may run from them; and make a batter as follows: For a Plate, take five Eggs, keeping out two whites; beat them up with a handful of Flour, half a Pint of Cream, a little Salt, as big as the Yolk of an Egg of Sugar; make your Batter of the thickness betwixt a fritter and a pancake, and put in to it as big as half an Egg of Butter, and put it over the fire; then pour in half your Batter; when it is a little baked, place your fry’d Apples thick all over it; then pour over them the rest of your Batter; keep doing softly till Batter is of the thickness that you can turn it with a Plate; then turn it once or twice till your paste is thoroughly baked, and serve it on plates or little dishes, for scone course of supper, scraping over it a little sugar.
Are used in Ragoos and Giblet-Pyes: We likewise serve them in Plates or little dishes dressed in the several ways following:
To force Artichokes
Boil them, take out the bottoms, and fry them with drawn Eggs, Marrow, a little Sewet, grated Bread, and beaten Pepper and Salt. So force your Artichokes and Bottoms, and garnish them with it and grated Bread. Then bake them, and let your sauce be Butter, Gravy and Lemon. So serve it.
To fry Artichokes
Cut them in slices, take out the Chokes, and give them four or five turns in boiling water to blanch them; then take them out of the water, and steep them in Vinegar, Pepper and Salt; dip them in beaten Eggs, flour them well, and fry them in Hogs Lard or clarify’d Butter. So serve them with fry’d Parsley.
Artichokes with white Sauce
Take very young Artichokes and boil them in Water and a little Salt; when they are boil’d toss up the bottoms with Butter and Parsley, seasoned with Salt and white Pepper. Let your sauce be Yolks of Eggs, a drop or two of Vinegar and a little Gravy.
Artichokes with Butter
Your Artichokes being boil’d as above, take out the Chokes, and make your sauce with fresh Butter, Vinegar, Salt and grated Nutmeg, with a little flour to thicken the sauce.
Artichokes a la Poivrade
Take Artichokes that are very young, and cut them in quarters; cut out the Choke and blanch them in fair Water; when they are blanch’d lay them in a dish with Pepper and Salt; so serve them.
Artichokes with Cream
Boil them in water, and when they are boil’d toss them up with Butter in a stew-pan, then put to them some Cream, with a Bunch of Chives and Parsley; thicken your Sauce with the Yolk of an Egg, and put in it a little Salt and Nutmeg. Serve them in plates or little dishes.
Artichokes in Puree
When you have well washed and cleansed the Bottoms of your Artichokes, boil them in blanch’d water, putting in it a good large lump of Butter, kneaded up with a little flour and Salt; when they are boil’d take them out of the water and having made them into Puree, strain them through a sieve in the same manner as you do Peas. Then set them to simmer in a stew-pan over a gentle fire, with fresh Butter, Salt, Pepper and Nutmeg and Cloves pounded in a Mortar: Add to this a bunch of Parsley, young Onions and Thyme, with a leaf of Bays. When you are almost ready to serve, pound in a mortar some blanch’d sweet Almonds, some candy’d Lemon Peel, Biskets of bitter almonds, Yolks of hard Eggs, and a convenient quantity of sugar, Mix all these ingredients together with a little Orange Flower Water; and having incorporated this composition with your Puree of Artichokes, set it a moment over the fire, and then serve it.
Artichokes being of great use in cookery throughout the whole year, for almost all sorts of Ragoos, Soops etc. it is necessary to lay in a good provision of them, by observing the following directions.
To keep Artichokes all the Year
Take a quantity of water proportional to your number of Artichokes, so that they may steep in it, and boil it with as much salt as you judge necessary. Then take it off the fire, and let is stand till the foulness of the salt be settled at the bottom; then pour it into the vessel in which you intend to keep your Artichokes. Blanch them in boiling water, only so long that you make take out the Chokes: wash them in two or three several waters, till you are sure they are very clean, and then put them into the Pickle you have already made for them, pouring on the top of it some Oil or good Butter, that no air may enter. And if you will, you may put a little vinegar to your Pickle. Cover your vessel very carefully with paper and lay a Board over it; that the least breath of air may not get in. When you would use your Artichokes; you must first steep them in fresh water to take away the salt. They will keep in this manner a year and more.
Artichokes may likewise be kept dry; to this end, when you have blanch’d them, and taken out the Chokes, as above directed, lay them a draining on grates or hurdles of osier; then put them into an oven moderately hot, till they become as dry as wood. Before you use them, you must steep them for two days in luke-warm water; by which means they will come to themselves and be as fresh as when they were first gathered. In blanching them off, put in the water a little Verjuice, Salt and Butter, or good Beef-sewet.
There is likewise another way of keeping them. Choose the best Artichokes you can get; and with a sharp knife cut off the leaves and Chokes and throw each Bottom immediately into fair water, otherwise they will turn black. When you take them out of the water, throw them into flour and cover them all over with it; then range them one by one on a Hurdle, and dry them in the oven. When you would make use of them, lay them first a soaking for four and twenty hours and then boil them as you do other Artichokes. You will find that by this means they will not have lost their taste.
Is a constant dish in the Spring, while it is in season; the biggest are reckoned the best. The several ways of dressing it are as follows.
Asparagus with Cream
Cut the green part of your Asparagus in pieces an inch long, and blanch them a little in boiling water; then toss them up in a stew-pan with good Butter or Lard; but take care they be not too fatty. Put to them some cream, a bunch of Pot-Herbs, and season them moderately. Before you serve them, beat one or two Yolks of Eggs in Cream, to thicken the sauce, into which put a little sugar, and then serve them.
Asparagus with Gravy
Cut them in pieces as before, and toss them up with melted Lard, Parsley, chervil cut very small, and a whole Leek, which you must remember to take away. Season them with Salt, Pepper and a little Nutmeg, and set them a simmering in a stew-pan over a gentle fire with a little good Broth; when they are enough done, take from them all the fat, pour over them some mutton-gravy and squeeze upon them the juice of a lemon. So serve them.
Asparagus with Butter
Boil them in water and a little Salt; take care they be not over done; when they are boil’d enough, set them a draining; then lay them in a dish and let your sauce be Butter, Salt, Vinegar and Nutmeg or white pepper and the Yolk of an Egg to thicken it; keep it continually moving, and pour it on your Asparagus; then serve them.
To make an Amlet of Asparagus
Having blanch’d and cut the Asparagus in small pieces, fry them in fresh butter, with a little Parsley and Chibbols; then pour some cream upon them and having season’d them well, boil them on a gentle fire; meanwhile make an Amlet with new-laid Eggs, Cream and Salt; when it is enough dress it on a dish and having thicken’d the Asparagus with one or two Yolks of Eggs, pour it on the Amlet and serve it up hot.
To preserve Asparagus
Cut off the hard part of the Stalk, that is not eatable: give the rest one boil in Butter and Salt; then put them into fair Water. When they have laid till they are cool, take them out and drain them dry; then put them into a vessel, where they may be at their full length without breaking; put to them some salt, whole Cloves, sliced Lemon and as much water as vinegar; lay a napkin in a vessel over them, and cover the napkin with melted butter. keep them in a place neither hot nor cold and when you would use them, dress them in the same manner you do those that are newly gathered.
