To force Cabbage
Scald the large blades of a Cabbage and make forced meat of fat Bacon and a piece of Veal a little boil’d Cabbage, the Yolks of two or three Eggs, Pepper, Salt, a little grated Bread, and grated Cheese, lap it in your Cabbage and stew them in good strong broth. Serve them for a first course, garnished with ripened Cheese.
To farce a Cabbage
Take a light Cabbage and blanch it in water, when it is blanch’d take it out, and set it a draining, then open it very carefully and spread the leaves, taking care that they all hang to one another, when it is open’d put in the middle of it a Farce made of the flesh of fowls, a slice of a Leg of Veal, blanch’d Bacon, the fat of a boil’d Ham, some hashed Truffles and Mushrooms, parsley and Chive, and a little Clove of Garlick. Season all this with pot Herbs and Spices, putting to it some grated Bread, two whole Eggs, and the Yolks of two or three others, the whole shred very small and pounded in a mortar. When you have filled your Cabbage with this Farce close up the leaves, bind it about with pack thread, and put it into a stewpan, with some slices of a leg of Veal or buttock of Beef, well beaten; range them in the stewpan as if you were to make gravy of them put to this half a spoonful of flour, and let all take colour together, when ‘its brown’d put in some good strong broth, and pour over them a Ragoo of Mushrooms, or any other of the like nature. So serve it hot for the first course.
A cabbage may also be farc’d meagre with the flesh of fish, and other garnishings, as we farce a Carp, a Pike or other fish.
Colly-flowers are a sort of Cabbage, the seed of which came first from Italy, it is a very good legume, and eaten either with gravy of Butter.
To dress Colly-flowers with Gravy
Blanch off your Colly-flowers in fat white water, that is to say, when you have pick’d them, you fill a boiler half full with water, into which you put a little flour, a lump of Butter, two or three slices of the fat of Bacon, and a little Salt. When the water boils, put in your Colly-Flowers, and when they are a little more than half-boil’d take them up and set them a draining, then place them handsomely in a stew pan, and put to them a cullis of Veal and Gammon of Bacon, just enough to cover them. Then set them a simmering over a stove with a gentle fire, and when you are ready to serve, take as big as a large walnut of Butter, and knead up with it a pinch or two of Flour, break it in five or six pieces, and lay it in several places around the stewpan which you must keep moving over the fire till the butter is melted, then put in a drop or two of Vinegar, and serve up your Colly-flowers hot, in Plates or large dishes.
Colly-Flowers with Butter
When they are well pick’d boil them over a quick fire with water, Salt, and two or three Cloves. When they are boiled, drain them dry and lay them in plates or little dishes pour over them a thick sauce made with Butter, Vinegar, Salt, Nutmeg, white Pepper and slices of Lemon. Knead your Butter before you melt it with a little flour to thicken the sauce.
Cabbage soup- see letter S among the soops
Take half a peck of Flour, and dry it; one pound of Sugar, one ounce of Mace, two large Nutmegs, half an ounce of Cinnamon, and a few Cloves. Pound these spices together and sift them; take besides, a quarter of an ounce of beaten Ginger, a little Salt, a pound of rasins of the Sun, and stone them and shred them, six pounds of currants, which must be plump’d before the fire, after they are wash’d and pick’d. Mix all these dry things together, then take a pound of Butter, melt it softly in a quart of Cream, beat eighteen Eggs keeping out six whites, put to them a little rose-water, a little Sac, a pine of new ale yeast, mix all the liquors together and strain them, then mix all together and let it stand before the fire, covered with a cloth a quarter of an hour, or longer; then put it in your hoop to bake; what flour you use to bring it together in the hoop, may be over and above the half peck. Put what suet you please, Orange and Lemon peel a pound. Two hours will bake it. Candy it with the whites of three Eggs beat to froth, adding a quarter of a pound of white Sugar fear’d and beaten together.
Take a pound and a half of flour dry’d and a pound of Butter, work the Butter very well into a pound of the flour. Take seven Eggs and nine spoonfuls of ale yeast, three spoonfuls of Rose water, a quarter of a pint of Sack, put the liquors together, and strain them into the remaining half-pound of Flour, it will be like batter, and it must be well beaten together, and set before the fire to rise, and when it is well risen, pour it into the flour that was mix’d with the butter, and work it very well through with your hand, and last of all, mix in a pound of very good Caraway comfits. Bake it in a hoop, and try with a knife when it is enough, a little time bakes it. Put into the flour two ounces of sugar, and a little salt.
To dress a CALF’S HEAD
Boil the head till the Tongue will peel, and then cut one half of the head into pieces about the bigness of Oyster; take out the brains, and set them by, to used as after directed. Stew the cut pieces in strong gravy with near half a pint of Clare, put in a little L3emon peel, a slice or two of Onion and Nutmeg sliced, and add a small handful of Sweet Herbs. Let all these stew together will the meat is very tender. Then slash the other half of the head across with a knife, lard it with Bacon, and wash it over with grated bread, Sweet Herbs and a little Lemon peel shred very small. Broil it well over a wood or charcoal fire, and then lay it in the middle of a dish. While it is broiling, put the stew’d meat in to a sauce-pan with a pint of strong gravy, three Anchovies, a good quantity of Mushrooms, a few capers a pretty deal of Butter and a quart of large Oyster, having first stewed them in their own liquor with a blade of Mace, but keeping out the largest to fry, and shredding a few of the smallest. Then having dipp’d them in beaten yolks of Eggs and Flour, fry them in Hogs Lard. Cut the tongue into round pieces, and make the brains into little cakes, and dip both them and tongue in Eggs, and fry them; then turn out the stew’d meat into the dish about the half of the head; and lay the tongue, brains and Oysters fry’d with little bits of crisped Bacon, Sausages, or forc’d meat balls, or both, about the meat. Let the garniture be Barberries and Horseradish; so serve it up.
To Hash a Calf’s Head
Boil it till ‘tis near enough to be eaten, then cut it into thin slices, put half a grated nutmeg, a little Mace, two Anchovies, and an Onion stuck with Cloves, into a pint of gravy or strong Broth, and half a pint of white wine; boil it a quarter of an hour, then strain it, and boil it up again. When it boils, put in the meat, with some Salt, and Lemon peel shred fine, let is stew a little and if you will, add Sweetbreads to it, have ready forc’d meat Balls of Veal, mix the Brains with the yolks of Eggs, and fry them to lay for garnish. Just before serving it, shake in a bit of Butter.
To roast a Calf’s Head with Oysters
Cut it in tow, as for boiling, take out the brains and the tongue, parboil them, blanch the Tongue and mince them with a little Sage, Beef-Suet or Marrow and few Oysters, add to these the yolks of four or five Eggs beaten, Salt, pepper, Ginger, Nutmeg and grated Bread. Then parboil the head, and having dry’d it with a cloth, fill the skull and the mouth with the above ingredients; then stuff it with Oysters, and fasten it to the spit. As it roasts preserve the gravy, to which put some white wine, a little Nutmeg, a few Oysters and sweet herbs minced, set these over a chafing dish of coals, put in some butter, the juice of a Lemon and a little Salt, beat it up thick, and when the head is dished, pour on this sauce, and serve it.
To CANDY any sort of Flowers
Break the very best refined sugar in lumps, and dip it piece by piece in water; put it into a silver vessel and melt it over the fire. Just as it boils, strain it, and set it again on the fire, and then keep it boiling till it draws in hairs, which you will perceive by holding up the spoon you stir it with, then dip in the flowers, and set them in cups or glasses and when they are grown to a hard crust, break them into lumps and lay them as high as you will. Dry it well in a stove, or in the sun, and it will look like sugar-candy.
To dress a CAPON a la Braise
Truss your capon as for boiling, then lard it with large lardoons well season’d. Then take a stewpan, and garnish the bottom of it with bards of Bacon, and lay over them slices of Beef and Veal, seasoned with Salt, Pepper, Onions, Carrots, Parsnips, Parsley, Spices, sweet Herbs and slices of Lemon. Then put in your Capon, and season it over as under, covering it with slices of Beef, Veal and Bacon. This done, set it a stewing for our or five hours with a gentle fire, above as well as under it. Take care from time to time that it do not burn; and if perhaps there should not liquor enough in the stewpan, you may moisten it with a little strong broth or with gravy. Next make a Ragoo of Veal-Sweetbreads, fat Livers, Truffles, Mushrooms, Morils, Artichoke bottoms, Asparagus tops in their season, which you toss up with a little melted Bacon, and strengthen with good gravy, when your Ragoo is enough done you take of all the fat, and thicken it with a cullis of veal and Ham of Bacon. Then take up your Capon, and set it a draining; when it is well drain’d lay it in your Dish, pour your Ragoo upon it, and serve it warm.
A Capon with Cray-fish
You stew your Capon a la Braise as in the foregoing receipt; and make a Ragoo of the Tails of Crayfish, Mushrooms and Truffles, which you toss up with a little melted Bacon, moisten with good Veal gravy and thicken with a cullis of Crayfish, then take up your Capon, and having drain’d it, lay it in the dish you intend to serve it in, and pour your Ragoo upon it. Take notice that after you have put your Crayfish Cullis into your Ragoo, you must keep it only over hot embers, for it will turn, if you let it boil.
At other times we serve a Capon dressed a la Braise, either with a Ragoo of young Onions, or of Succory, or of Cellery, or of Cucumbers. You will find the several ways of making these Ragoos in the article Ducks.
A Capon with Oysters
When your Capon is dressed a la Braise, as before, you set some Mushrooms and Truffles a simmering over a stove in Veal gravy, and thicken it with a cullis of Veal and Ham. Then you take your Oysters, and give them two or three turns over a stove in their own liquor to blanch them, but be sure not to let them boil. Then take them off, and having clean’d them very well, put them into the Ragoo you have got read; and heat it over the fire, but let it not boil. Take up your Capon, drain it, and lay it in the dish, pour the Ragoo upon it, and serve it warm.
A Capon roasted with sweet Herbs
When your Capon is pick’d and drawn, put your finger between the skin and the flesh to loosen it. Bake the bigness of two Eggs of grated Bacon; add to this one Mushroom, one Truffle, a little Parsley, some Chives and a Garden Basil, all shred very small; pepper, salt and spices. Having mixed all this together, put it between the skin and the flesh of your Capon, and sew it up the end. Then bard the Capon with slices of Veal and Ham, putting between them a little sweet herbs, Pepper and Salt; and having wrapt it up in sheet of paper, put it on the spit and roast it. When it is roasted serve it up with any of the Ragoos, mention’d above in this article.
Observe that we dress Chickens, Pigeons, Ducks, Partridges, Pheasants, etc in the same manner.
Are a sort of Legume, that well deserve a place in this treatise. We dress them as follows. Having pick’d and cut them in pieces, and wash’d them, we blanch them in water with a little Salt, some Slices of Lemon, Beef Suet and bards of Bacon. When they are blanch’d we drain them, and put them into a stewpan with good gravy, a bunch of sweet Herbs, some Beef Marrow cut small and a little grated Cheese; then we season and stew them. When they are tend, we take off all the fat, give them a brown colour with a red hot fire shovel, put to them a drop of Vinegar or Verjuice, and serve them hot in plates or little dishes.
Is a freshwater fish, very common in all countries. A river Carp is recon’d better than a pond Carp and the yellower it is, the better.
To fry CARP
After having scaled and drawn it, slit it in two, strew it over with Salt; drudge it well with floure, and fry it in clarify’d butter. When it is fry’d you may either serve it dry, and eat it only with juice of Orange, or else you may prepare a Ragoo of Mushrooms, the Milts of Carps, or other fish, and Artichoke bottoms, fry some thin slices of bread, and put them into the Sauce, together with some sliced Onion and some Capers; let them boil in it. Dish up your Carp, throw your Ragoo upon it, and let your Garniture be fry’d crusts of Bread and sliced Lemon. So serve it warm.
To dress a CARP a la Daube
Take a couple of Soles and a Pike and bone them. Of the flesh of them make a Farce, hashing it very small together with a few Chives, some Spice, Salt, Pepper, Nutmeg, fresh Butter, and some crumb of Bread soaked in Cream. Thicken your Farce with the yolks of Eggs. Then take a large Carp, fill the body of it with the Farce and put it in a stewing in an oval stewpan, over a little fire, in white Wine, season’d with Salt, Pepper, Cloves, some slices of Lemon, a bunch of sweet Herbs and good fresh Butter, whilst it is stewing, get ready a Ragoo of Mushrooms, Truffles, Morils, Artichoke bottoms, Milts of Carps, and Tails of Crayfish. Season all this well, and toss it up in a saucepan with fresh butter. Put to it a good Cullis of Crayfish. Lay your Carp in an oval dish, pour your ragoo upon it, and serve it up very warm.
To dress a Carp au Court-bouillon
Having sealed and drawn your Carp, pull out the fins, lay it in an earthen pan, and throw upon it some Vinegar and Salt scalding hot. Boil it in white Wine and Vinegar, with Onion, Bay leaf, Cloves, Pepper and Butter; when it is boil’d serve it up in a clean napkin, garnished with Parsley, for the first course.
To broil a Carp
Having prepared your Carp, rub it with melted Butter, and strew it with Salt, then lay it on a gridiron, and broil it. While it is broiling, get ready a sauce with drawn Butter, Capers, Anchovies, sliced Lemon and Vinegar, seasoned with Salt, Pepper and Nutmeg. You may serve it likewise with a sauce made of fresh Butter, Salt, Pepper, parsley and Chives shred very small, and fish broth or a thin Puree. Toss up all this in a stewpan, put your Carp to it, and serve it up with juice of Orange.
To roast a Carp
Take the largest and the fattest Carp you can get; let it be a Milter; make a Farce with the Milt, the Flesh of Eels, anchovies, Mushrooms, Chestnuts, Chippings of Bread, onion, sorrel, Parsley and Thyme. Season all this with Salt, Pepper and pounded Cloves, and put to it some good fresh Butter. When your Farce is made, stuff the body of your Carp with it, and sew up the slit. Then stick it with some Cloves and Bay leafs, and wrap it up in paper well butter’d. Fasten it to the Spit, and while it is roasting, take care to keep basting it with warm milk or white wine. When it is roasted serve it up on a Ragoo of Mushrooms, the Milts of Carps, Asparagus tops, Truffles and Morils.
To stew Carps
Cut them in pieces according to their size, set them a stewing in a kettle or saucepan, with white Wine or Claret; and season them well with Salt, Pepper, Onion shred small, Capers and some crusts of Bread. Let all this stew together, and when it is enough, and the sauce grown thick, serve it.
To boil Chickens and Asparagus
Force the Chickens with good forc’d meat, and boil them white, cut Asparagus inch long so parboil it with water, a little butter and flour, and drain it; then take a saucepan with a little Butter and Salt, and dissolve it softly, taking care that it do no become brown. Add to the Asparagus a little minc’d Parsley and Cream, a Faggot of Fennel, some Nutmeg, Pepper and Salt. Strew it over a soft fire; so serve it over your Chickens, squeezing in a little Lemon.
To boil Chickens with Endive
Brown a little Butter, a little minc’d Onion, a small Anchovie, and pickled Capers, mince them, and add a little Gravy. So serve it over your Chickens, to the first course.
To make forc’d Chicken Bullion Blanc
Take the white of the Breasts, and mince it with a little fat Bacon boil’d, a little Marrow, and the crumb of a French roll, boil’d in Milk. Then take the yolks of two Eggs, the one boil’d hard, the other raw, mince and season all this with Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg and the juice of a Lemon, lap it up in your Chickens and bake them. You may make pattys of that forc’d meat to garnish your Chickens, but put neither eggs nor bread to your forc’d meat.
Chickens a la Brasse
Take out the breasts, lard them and force them, so stew them in a pan, and serve them. Let your sauce be Butter, Gravy, and minc’d Parsley.
To make Chicken Chiringrate
Cut off their feet, and lard them, brown them off, make a Ragoo sauce, and stew them in it; when you are going to serve, put to your Chickens cold Ham sliced. Let it stew a little with your Chickens. So serve them with your sliced Ham about them.
To make Pullet or Chicken Surprize
Roast them off; if for a little dish, two Chickens, or one Pullet will do. Take the lean of your pullet or Chickens from the bones, cut it in thin slices an inch long, and toss it up in six or seven spoonfuls of Milk or Cream, with the bigness of half an egg of Butter, grated Nutmeg, pepper and Salt; thicken it with a little dust of flour, to the thickness of a good Cream, then boil it up and set it to cool; then cut six or seven thin round slices of bacon, place them in a pattypan and put on each slice some of the forc’d meat, for which you will find the Receipt in Letter F and work them up in form of a French roll, with raw Egg in your hand, leaving a little hollow in the middle; then put in your Fowl, and cover them with some of the same forc’d meat, rubbing it smooth over with your hand and an ?Egg, make them of the height and bigness of a French roll, throw a little fine grated bread over them, bake them three quarters of an hour in a gentle oven, or under a baking cover, till they come to a yellow brown; place them on your mazarine, that they may not touch one another, but so that they may not fall flat in the baking, but you may form them on your kitchen table with your slices of Bacon under them. Then lift them up with your broad kitchen knife, and place them on that which you intend to bake them on. Let your sauce be Butter and Gravy, and squeez’d Lemon, and your garnishing fry’d Parsley, and cut Orange. You may put the legs of one of your Chickens into the Sides of one of your loaves that you intend to put in the middle of your dish. This is proper for side dish for first course, either in Summer or Winter, where you can have the ingredient above mentioned. Pullet-Surprize is made in the same manner.
To dress Chickens a la Braise
Take the fattest Chickens you can get, and parboil them. Lard them with large Lardons of Bacon, and of a Ham, both very well season’d. When they are larded, tie them about with a pack thread then garnish the bottom of a small kettle with bards of Bacon, and slices of Beef well beaten, and season’d in the same manner as for the other braises already mention’d. Put the chickens into the kettle, the breasts downwards, season them above as underneath, lay over them slices of Beef and bards of Bacon, cover the kettle, and set them to stew, with fire over the kettle as well as under it. Then make a Ragoo as follows. Take some Veal-Sweetbreads and cut them in morsels; add to them some cocks-combs, some Mushrooms and Truffles cut in slices, season all this with pepper, Salt, and a bunch of Savoury Herbs, put it into a saucepan and toss it up over a stove with a little melted Bacon. Then put some gravy amongst it, and set it to simmer over a gentle fire. When it is half done, put to it some Asparagus tops and Artichoke bottoms cut in quarters and blanch’d then continue to prepare your Ragoo and when it is enough done, be careful to take off all the fat, and thicken it with a cullis of Veal and Ham. Take up your Chickens let them drain and then put them into the stewpan amongst your Ragoo; and when you are ready to serve take them out, unbind the pack thread, and lay them handsomely in the dish you intend to serve them in. Take care your Ragoo be well relish’d and the fat clean taken off; then pour it on the Chickens, and serve them warm for the first course.
We serve Chickens a la Braise sometimes with a Ragoo of Crayfish or of Oysters; as likewise with all sorts of Ragoos of Legumes; you will find the several ways of making them in the letter R.
To dress Chickens with slices of Ham
Truss your Chickens without blanching them. Cut slices of a Ham for each Chick one; beat them a little and season them with Parsley and Chives shred very small. Loosen the skin of the breasts of your Chickens with your finger and slip in the slices of the Ham between the skin and the flesh. Then blanch them before the fire, wrap them up in bards of Bacon, tie them about with pack thread and put them on the Spit. When they are roasted, take off the bards, and lay the chickens handsomely in the Dish in which you mean to serve them, pour on them some essence of Gammon of Bacon which see in letter G and serve them warm for the first course.
To dress Chickens the Polish Way
Lard them with half Bacon, half Anchovies, both season’d with spices and Savoury Herbs. Then make a farce of the Livers of your Chickens, blanch’d Bacon, raw Truffles, Sweet Herbs, Spice, the yolk of two Eggs, all hash’d very small. Fill your chickens with the Farce, spit them and lay them down. When they are somewhat more than half roasted, take a fire shovel almost red hot upon which lay some bards of Bacon and let them drip on your chickens. Take care not to black them, and when they are roasted, serve them with a warm Ramolade which see in letter R.
To dress Chickens the Barbary Way
When they are trussed beat them with a rolling pin to break the bones. Make a high season’d farce, and put it in the bodies of your Chickens, then boil them in Milk with all sorts of savour Herbs and high seasonings. You must take care not to put them into the Milk till it boils; when they are enough, take them up and lay them on the gridiron till they are grown brown; then serve them with a Ramolade.
To make a Fricassy of Chickens
Take off the skin of your Chickens. Cut off the shanks a little above the joint, and the pinions of the Wings, both which you make no use of. Then cut off the legs, and with a blow of a rolling pin break the bones, and having take them out, throw the flesh into water; then take off the wings and the breasts, and cut the rest of the carcass in pieces as you would carve it if it were dressed for eating. Throw them all into water and blanch them over a stove; when they are blanch’d put them again into cold water, and when they have lain a little while, take them out and drain them. Then put them into a stewpan with a little melted bacon and fresh butter, a bunch of Savour Herbs, an Onion stuck with cloves, some Cocks-combs, Veal-Sweetbread, Mushrooms and Truffles, season’d with Salt and Pepper; toss up all this together over a stove, then put to it a little flower, and give it two or three turns more over the stove. Moisten it with half water, half broth, and set it over a gentle fire. Beat up the yolks of three or four Eggs in Cream, and mix in it a little shred Parsley. When the liquor of the fricassee is diminished as it ought to be, thicken it with your Eggs and Cream without taking it off the stove; when it is enough done, lay it handsomely in a dish and serve it in places or little dishes.
When you would serve it with Verjuice, make your thickening with that instead of the Cream.
To fricassee Chickens with Champaign Wine
Cut and prepare them as in the foregoing receipt. Put them into a stewpan with a little Bacon, a morsel of Butter and an Onion stuck with two or three Cloves, some Button-Mushrooms, some sliced Truffles, and Cocks-combs season’d with pepper and Salt. Toss up the whole over a stove, then powder it with a little flour, and give it two or three more turns over the stove, and moisten it with a little strong broth. Boil to glasses of Champagne wine and put it into the fricassee; then set it over a gentle fire. Beat up the yolks of three or four Eggs in Veal gravy with a little shred Parsley, when the Fricassy is boil’d away as it ought, pour to it your Eggs and Veal gravy, and when it is thick enough, dish it up handsomely and serve it in plates or little dishes.
To dress Chickens in Gravy
Loosen the skin of the breasts from the flesh; take as many bards of Bacon as you have Chickens and of the same size, season them with Salt, Pepper, Savour Herbs, parsley and Chive, all shred very small and mix’d well together; thrust one of these season’d slices of Bacon between the skin and the breast of each Chicken, bind them about with pack thread, then wrap them up in bards of Bacon, spit them and lay them to the fire, when they are roasted, take off the bards, dish temp up handsomely, pour on them some Veal gravy and serve them warm in plates or little dishes.
To farce Chickens with their own Livers
Take the gall off the Livers of your Chickens, and lay them on the dresser with a little fat and lean of a Ham of Bacon, some shred Chives and Parsley together with a very little Basel. Season the whole with Salt, Pepper, Spice of all sorts, and hash and mix it well together putting to it the yolks of two Eggs raw. Loosen the skin from the breasts of the Chickens, and farce them with this Liver-Farce. Then fasten the skin at the two ends of the Wings, by running a small skewer through them, or else by sewing them up. Run another skewer through the legs of your Chicken, wrap them up in bards of Bacon, and over that with sheets of paper; fasten them to the spit, and let them roast at a gentle fire; when they are roasted, take off the bards, lay them handsomely in a dish, and pour on them a cullis of Veal and Ham. So serve them hot.
To farce Chickens with Anchovies
Grate some fat Bacon, season it with Salt, pepper, some Parsley, Chieve, and two Anchovies shred very small; mix all this together and having loosen’d the skin of the Breasts of your chickens, as in the above Receipt, put it between the skin and the flesh, tie them with pack thread, fold them up in Bards of Bacon and sheets of paper then spit your chickens and while they are roasting at a gentle fire, take two Anchovies, wash them very thin, bone them and shred them very small then put them in a sucapan and melt them in a clear cullis of Veal and Ham of Bacon. Keep the cullis over hot embers and when the Chickens are roasted take off the Bards, and dish them up pouring the cullis of Anchovies upon them and serve them for first course.
We dress likewise Capons, Pullets, Quails, Partridges, Fillets of Veal and Mutton with Anchovies in the same manner as Chickens, and serve them also fir first course.
A Chub is a river fish so called from it having a great head. We dress it as follows:
To boil a Chub
Put as much Vinegar of Beer, and water in to the kettle as will just cover the fish; put to it a good deal of Salt and some Fennel. Let this boil, and then put in the fish and when it is boil’d and well drain’d pick the flesh from the bones. Put it into the dish over a chafing dish of coals, with melted Butter and sent it hot to table.
To broil a Chub
Scale the Chub, cut off the tail and fins, wash it well, slit it down the middle, gash it on the back in three or four places, and lay it go broil over a clear fire. Baste it all the while ‘tis broiling with Butter and Salt, with which mix some Thyme shred very small. The sauce may be Butter and Anchovies, with a drop or two of Vinegar.
To roast a Chub
Having sealed it, make a hole as near the gills as you can, gut it and take care to cleanse the throat well. Wash it and fill the belly with Sweet Herbs, tie it fast to the spit with splinters and while it roads, keep basting it with Butter and Vinegar well season’d with Salt. Use the same sauce as for the broil’d Chub.
To make CIVET of VENISON
Boil the Venison, a breast or neck, cut in cutlets; when it is almost boil’d take a saucepan and brown in it half a pound of Butter; and as it browns add a quarter of a pound of flour, little and little, till the brown be of a good colour, be sure not to burn it. Then add half a pound of Sugar, and as much Claret as will make it the thickness of a Ragoo. When you are going to serve it, put in the Venison and toss it three or four times and so serve it with the juice of a Lemon.
To make CIVET of a HARE
Cut off the legs and wings whole, and cut the rest in pieces. Lard them with Bacon, and toss them up with melted Bacon, then stew them in strong broth and white wine, a bunch of Herbs, Salt, Pepper, Nutmeg, Bayleaf and sliced Lemon. Fricassy the Liver, pound it in a mortar, and strain it through a sieve with a cullis, and a little of the same broth, pour this on your Hare when you have dish’d it and serve it warm.
Besides the share that Cock-combs have in the best Ragoos, and in Bisques, we serve them up by themselves in plates or little dishes, especially farced Cocks-combs, or else with Veal-Sweetbreads, or with fat Livers, or lastly with Mushrooms and Morils.
To farce Cocks-combs
Take the largest you can get and half boil them. Then open them at the great end with the point of a knife. Make a farce of the Breasts of Chicks or a Capon, beef-marrow, pounded Bacon, Salt, pepper, Nutmeg and the yolk of an Egg. Fricassy your Cocks-combs, having first farced them, and let them simmer in a dish with a little strong broth, and four or five sliced Mushrooms beat up the yolk of an Egg in a little gravy or cullis, pour it on the Cocks-combs, and so serve them in plates or little dishes.
To preserve Cocks-combs
Clean them well, put them into a pot with some melted Bacon, and keep them a little over the fire without boiling. Half an hour afterwards put to them a little pounded Bay-Salt, an Onion stuck with Cloves, a Lemon cut in slices, some Pepper and a glass of Vinegar. When the Bacon begins to stick to the pot, take them up, put them into an earthen pan, and cover them with a linen cloth and melted Butter,, as you do other things that you intend for keeping.
To make Scotch COLLOPS
Cut thin slices off from a leg of Veal and having beaten them with a rolling pin lard them with Bacon, then rub them over with a seasoning of Salt, pepper, Nutmeg, young Onions, Savoury, parsley, Marjoram and Thyme shred small, dip the Collops in the yolks of Eggs temper’d with flour, and fry them in fresh Butter. Meanwhile get ready your sauce as follows. Dissolve some Anchovies in strong gravey and a glass of Claret, to which put one or two Shallots and the juice of a Lemon. Let these stew over the fire for some time, then thicken it with the yolk of an Egg beaten up with Butter. Pour it on the meat with forc’d meatballs, crisp’d Bacon, fry’d Oysters, Mushrooms and Veal-Sweetbreads, cut in pieces. Garnish the dish with Barberries and scrap’d horseradish.
Is a particular manner of dressing certain fish. It is composed of Water, Vinegar, Salt and Butter; but it being common to several sorts of fish, not to trouble the reader with needless repetitions, we refer him to the Articles of Carp and Pike, in the letters C and P where he will find what he is to observe in this respect.
Are the sea shellfish usually eaten as follows:
To dress Crabs
Having boil’d them, take the meat out of their shells and great claws. Cut the last into square bits like dice, and then put both the meats into a pipkin with white Wine, orange juice, grated Nutmeg, and some slices of Orange. Let it have three or four warms over the fire; and then put the meat into the shells, having first cleans’d them very well, and lay the small legs in the dish round them.
To broil Crabs
Boil them first in water and Salt, then lay them to steep in Oil and Vinegar well beaten together. Lay them on a gridiron over a gentle fire, and while they are boiling keep basting them with rosemary branches. Serve them up with baten Butter and Vinegar, or with Oil and Vinegar and the Rosemary branches with which you basted them.
To butter Crabs
When they are boil’d take the meat out of their bodies, and strain it with the yolks of three or four hard Eggs, Claret, Vinegar, Sugar and pounded cinnamon; then set it to stew in a pipkin with fresh Butter for a quarter of an hour and serve them up as above.
Are taken in rivers and running streams. Besides the use we make of them in bisques and Soops as well of flesh as meagre, we make a Ragoo of them as follows:
Ragoo of Crayfish
Wash them well and boil them in water;; then pick them, take off the tails and the rest of the shells, after having first taken out the body, will serve to make your cullis, as shall be said by and by; cut off the end of the tails next the body, and mix the rest with some Mushrooms, Truffles, Aspragus tops (if in season) and some Artichoke bottoms; toss up all together with a morsel of Butter; then moisten it with a drop or two of strong broth, and set it a simmering over a little fire, having given it a seasoning of Salt, pepper, Onion and sliced Lemon. When it is enough, thicken it with a cullis of Crayfish, and serve it warm in plates or little dishes.
See another Ragoo of Crayfish in the article Capon with Crayfish in letter C/
To make a Crayfish Cullis
Pound the shells of them with half a dozen sweet Almonds. Take three or four slices of Carrot, parsnip and Onion, and brown them a little in fresh Butter, and add crusts of bread in proportion to the quantity of the Cullis you intend to make, and as you have fewer or more shells. Moisten the crusts with a fish broth, season it with Salt, pepper, Cloves a whole Leek, Parsley and Mushrooms. Let all this simmer for half an hour, then put in your pounded shells, and give them a boil or two, then strain it through a sieve, and make use of it to thicken Ragoos, Bisques of Crayfish, and others, (which see letter B) but then it must be thinner.
Take care not to let your Crayfish Cullis boil, after you have strain’d it; for then it will be apt to turn; therefore only keep it warm over live embers.
To dress Crayfish the English Way
Having boil’d them in water, pick out the tails, and take off the small claws, leaving only the two large ones, from which take off the shells. Then toss them up with a little fresh butter, some Truffles and Mushrooms, moisten them with a little fish-broth, and two or three spoonfuls of Crayfish Cullis, and set them a simmering over a gentle fire. When you are ready to serve, give them a toss up over a stove, and thicken your sauce with the yolks of two Eggs beaten in Cream, mixing with it a little shred Parsley. So serve them in plates or little dishes.
You may likewise toss them up in a saucepan with white sauce, as you do several other things.
To make Rhenish Wine Cream
Put over the fire a pine of Rhenish Wine, a stick of Cinnamon and half a pound of Sugar. While this is boiling, take seven yolks and whites of Eggs, beat them well together with a whisk till your Vine is half driven in them, and your Eggs to a Syrup, string it very fast with the whisk till it comes to that thickness that you may lift it on the point of a knife, but be sure you let it not curdle, add to it the juice of a Lemon, and Orange flower water, so pour it in your dish and garnish it with Citron, Sugar and biscuit. So serve it.
To make Cream Toasts, or Pain perdu
Take two French rolls, or more according to bigness of your dish, and cut them in slices as thick as your finger, crumb and crust through; then lay them on a silver or brass dish put to them a pint of cream and half a pint of milk, strew them over with beaten Cinnamon and Sugar, turn them frequently till they are tender soak’d, but so as you can turn them without breaking; then take them with a slice or skimmer from your Cream, break four or five raw Eggs, turn your slices of bread in the Eggs, and fry them in clarify’d Butter, make them of a good brown colour, not black; take care of burning them in frying, scrape a little sugar round them, but have a care you make them not too sweet. You may serve them hot for second course, being well drain’d from your Butter in which you fry’d them, but they are most proper for a plate or little dish for supper.
To make fry’d Cream
Put over the fire in a saucepan a pint of Cream, half a pint of Milk, a piece of Sugar, and a stick of Cinnamon, let is simmer over the fire softly, a quarter of an hour. In the meantime break eight Eggs, put all the Yolks and six of the whites into another saucepan, beat them together with a wooden spoon or ladle and add to them a quarter of a pint of Cream, a handful of fine flour, and mix all together as fine as can be, your stick of Cinnamon being taken out, add to it your boiling Cream, and boil it over the fire, stirring it hard for a quarter of an hour, and putting to it a little Salt, and Citron minc’d fine; being all boil’d together of a thickness that you just stir it, flower a Mazarine, and pour it out upon it, make it run a breadth with your hand, till it is the thickness of your thumb, strew a little flour over it; cut it out with a knife in squares or diamonds, three inches long, flour it as you cut it, fry it in Hogs lard, and serve it hot, with a little scrap’d Sugar, for second course or supper.
To make Cream the Italian Way
Take about a quart of Milk, according to the size of your dish; boil it with Sugar, a small stick of Cinnamon and a very little Salt. When it is boil’d take a large silver dish and a sieve, into which put the yolks of our or five new lay’d Eggs and strain the Milk and Eggs through it three or four times, then put your dish into a baking cover, taking care to place it very even; pour your Milk and Eggs into the dish, and put fire over and under it, till your Cream is very thick, then serve it. Observe that in all these creams, mixing a little cream with the milk makes them the more delicate.
To make Cream Tarts
If you would make for several times, beat twelve Eggs, the yolks and the Whites, when they are beaten put to them half a pound of flour, rather more than less, and beat all of it together. Then add a dozen Eggs more and continue beating them all together. Have ready at the same time about two quarts of Milk, and put it into a saucepan big enough to boil it; when it boils, pour in your Eggs and Flour, and keep always stirring it. Put to it a little Salt and white Pepper, with about half a pound of Butter, and boil it well, taking care that it stick not to the bottom. When your Cream is thicken’d and boil’d, pour it into another saucepan and set it a cooling. When you would make tarts, take more or less of it, according to the size you would make your tarts, and put it into a saucepan, stir it and mix it well with a slice, adding to it some Sugar, some candy’d Citron, shred small, a little Orange flower Water, some yolks of Eggs, and Beef-marrow or melted Butter. All this being well mix’d together, make your tarts of puff-paste, and make a border round them, after which pour in your cream, when the tarts are almost bak’d glaze them. They are proper for second course or supper.
To make Maiden-Cream
Take the whites of five Eggs, whip them to a froth, and put them into a saucepan with Sugar, Milk and Orange flower water. Set a plate over a stove with a little Cinnamon, and pour your Cream when it is well beaten, into the plate. When it is enough done, brown it with a red-hot shovel.
To make Chocolate Cream
Take a quart of Milk, a quarter of a pound of Sugar, and boil them together for a quarter of an hour; then beat up the Yolk of an Egg, put it in the Cream, and give it three or four boils. Take it off the fire, and put Chocolate to it till the Cream has taken the colour of it. Then boil it again for a minute, strain it through a sieve, and serve it in china dishes. Cinnamon Cream is made in the same manner.
To make Hasty-Cream
Take three quarts of milk warm from the cow, and set it a boiling. When it begins to rise, take it off the fire, and let it stand a moment. Take off all the Cream from the top of it, and put it into a plate. Set your skillet again over the fire and continue to do so as before, till your plate be full of Cream, put to it some Orange-flower or other sweet water, and forget not to powder it well with Sugar before you serve it.
All cullises, as well as the meagre as those made of flesh, serve to thicken all sorts of Ragoos and Soops, and give them an agreeable taste.
To make a Cullis for the several sorts of flesh-soops
Take off the fat from three or four pounds of a Surloin of Beef, and roast it very brown. Then pound it to a paste in a mortar, while it is yet hot from the spit, together with crusts of Bread, Carcasses of Partridges and other Fowl that you may chance to have by you. When all this is thoroughly pounded, moisten it with good gravy, and toss it up in a saucepan with gravy or strong broth: then season it with salt, pepper, Cloves and Thyme, Basil, and some Slices of Lemon. Make it boil two or three Minutes, strain it through a Sieve, and pour it on your Soops with juice of Lemon.
Another Cullis that is now generally used for brown Soops and Sauces
Take two or three pounds of Veal, and half a pound of the lean of a gammon of Bacon, cut these in slices, and garnish with them the bottom of a stewpan; put to them an Onion, and some Carrots and Parsnips cut likewise in slices; then cover your stewpan and set it a sweating over a stove. When it begins to stick to the Pan and you see it has taken a good colour, put to it a little melted Bacon, and drudge it with dust of Flour; then wet it with broth and Gravy, of each an equal quantity and season it with Truffles and Mushrooms, a whole Leek, some Parsley and half a dozen of Cloves; put in some crusts of Bread, and let it all simmer together, when it is ready to strain, if it be for a brown Soop of Partridges, take a roasted Partridge and pound it in a Mortar, then put it into the Cullis, and mix it well with it. After this strain your Cullis through a sieve, put it into a small Kettle to keep it warm, and throw it on your Soop when you are going to serve.
This stock of Cullis serves for all sorts of black meats; and when you would make a Cullis of Woodcocks, make use of Woodcocks, instead of Partridges, in like manner of Rabbits, Pheasants, Quails, Ducks, Teals, Pidgeons, Stock-Doves , etc. Insomuch that it is only the difference of the meats which you put into the Cullisses, that gives both the name and the taste to them.
Observe that what kind of meat soever you make use of, must be more than half roasted, before you pound it to put it into your Cullis.
To make a Capon-Cullis
Roast a Capon and pound it very well in a mortar, then toss up some crusts of bread in melted Bacon, and when they are very brown, put to them some Chives, parsley, Basil, and a few Mushrooms, all minc’d very small. Mix all this with your pounded Capon; and give it a few turns on the Stove. Put to it as much of your strongest Broth as you think fit, and strain it through a sieve your slices of Veal that they may not whiten your Cullis when you come to strain it. Then pass it through a sieve, and keep it to use in all sorts of Ragoos.
To make a white Cullis
Roast a Pullet, take off the skin, and bone it. Take a handful of sweet Almonds, blanch them, and pound them in a Mortar, with the Breast or white Flesh of your pullet, and the yolks of four hard Eggs. When all this is well pounded together, take about two pounds of Veal, and some ham of Bacon, cut it in slices, and garnish the bottom of a stewpan; put to it some Onion, Carrot and Parsnip in slices, and set it a sweating. When it begins to stick, and be sure, before it had taken colour, pour on it some good Broth, according to the quantity of Cullis you intend to make. Season it with Truffles, Mushrooms, a Leek, Parsley, a little Basil and two or three Cloves; add to it the bigness of a couple of Eggs of crumbs of Bread, and let is simmer till the Veal be done enough, then take out the slices of veal, and put in your Pullet with the hard Eggs and Almonds that you pounded, and stir it about till it be very well mix’d together. Then set it over the fire, but take care not to let it boil, for fear it should turn brown. Then strain it to use with your white Soop, Ragoos, etc.
When you would make this Cullis of Partridges, make use of the breasts, of them instead of the Pullet. We take out the slices of Veal before we strain it, that the Partridge or Pullet may pass the better through a sieve.
Another white Cullis meagre
Take a brace of perche or a Pike, and boil them over a gentle fire, then take off the skins, and divide the flesh from the bones, Blanch a handful of sweet Almonds, and pound them with the flesh only of your fish, and four or five yolks of hard Eggs. Take five or six Onions, two Carrots, and two parsnips, cut them in slices, put them into a stewpan with butter, and stew them, turning them from time to time over the stove; and when they begin to brown, wet them with a thin Pease Broth or puree. Take a Carp, scale, skin and bone it; you make use of the flesh for a hash or Farce. But cut the head and bone in pieces and put them into your stewpan. When this has boil’d a quarter of an hour, strain it through a sieve into another stewpan, season it with some Truffles and Mushrooms, a whole Leek, a little Basil and Parsley, a couple of Cloves, and put to it as big as two eggs of crumbs of Bread; set it a simmering over a gentle fire for a quarter of an hour; then mix amongst it your pounded fish, almonds and Eggs, set it a simmering, but keep it from boiling, lest that should change its colour; strain it through a sieve and use it for your Soops and Ragoos.
To make a Cullis of Roots
Take some roots of Parsley, some Carrots, Parsnips, Onions and cut them in slices; toss them up a little in a stewpan, then pound them in a mortar with a dozen and half of blanch’d Almonds, and the crumb of two French rolls, soak’d in good fish-broth; boil all this together and season it well, as directed in the other Cullis; strain it hot through a sieve and use it for your Soops of Onions, Leeks, Cardoons, Charvil, etc.
To make a Cullis of Lentils
Take some crusts of Bread, some Parsley roots, Carrots, Parsnips and Onions; cut them in slices, and toss them up in boiling oil or Butter, or melted Bacon, till both your roots and crusts are very brown; put to it some boil’d Lentils, a little Broth, and season it well. Let it boil a while with some Citron, then strain it. You may use it for almost all sorts of Soops as well of firsh as flesh.
To make a Cullis of Mushrooms
Take some juice of Mushrooms (for which see the Receipt in Letter M), soak in it some crusts of Bread, when they are well soak’d strain it through a sieve, and use it when you have occasion.
To make a Cullis Crayfish meagre (See Crayfish)
Wash your Crayfish in several waters, and boil them, then pick out the flesh and lay the shells aside. Take a dozen of sweet Almonds, blanch and pound them in a Mortar with the shells of your Crayfish. When they are well pounded, take an Onion, two or three Carrots, and as many Parnsips, slice them, and toss them up with a little butter; when they begin to turn brown, pour on them some fish broth. Season the whole with salt, two or three cloves, a little Basil, some Truffles and Mushrooms, some crusts of Bread, a little Parsley and a whole leek. Let all this simmer together then mix among it your pounded Almonds and Crayfish Shells, and boil them a little. Strain it through a Sieve into an earthen pan and use it in all your meagre Soops and Ragoos.
To make a Crayfish Cullis half brown
Prepare your crayfish, and pound the shells with Almonds, as in the foregoing Receipt. Take the white flesh of a roasted Pullet, mince and put it into the mortar with the shells, together with the yolks of three or four hard Eggs and pound it all together. Take a pound and half of a fillet of veal, cut in slices as likewise some ham of Bacon, sliced in like manner, and garnish with them the bottom of a stewpan; lay over them some sliced Onion, and three or four slices of Carrots and Parsnips. Cover the stewpan and set it over a gentle fire. When the meat begins to stick to the bottom, put in a little melted Bacon and a pinch of Flour, keep it moving over the stove for seven or eight turns; then pour to it some strong Broth, season it with half a dozen Cloves, a very little Basil, some Parsley, a whole Leek, some Truffles and Mushrooms, and add to it the crust of two French rolls; let all of it simmer together and when the Veal slices are enough done, take them out of the stewpan into which put the shells, etc that you pounded in the mortar, mix the whole well together, strain it through a sieve into an earthen pan to use it as directed in many of the Receipts.
We also make a great many other Cullisses, that are inserted in their proper places and which the reader will find by the help of the table.
Take a quart of Cream, and boil it with the shole spice, then take some rose-water, the yolk of ten Eggs and the whites of five, mingle them with a little Cream; and when the boil’d Cream is almost cold, put the Eggs into it, and stir it very well, then fill up your custards and bake them. Serve them with French comfits.
To make Veal or Mutton Cutlets a la Maintenon
Cut your cutlets handsomely, beat them thin with a cleaver, and season them with a little pepper and salt, then cover them all over, except within two inches of the Rib-bone as thick at a Crown piece with some of the forc’d meat, for which you have the Receipt in Letter F, and smooth it over with a knife. This done, take as many half sheets of white paper as you have Cutlets, and butter them on one side with melted Butter. Dip your Cutlets likewise in melted Butter, and throw a little grated bread on the top of your bare’d meat all round. Lay each cutlet on a half piece of paper cross the middle of it, leaving the bone about an inch out, then close the two ends of your paper on the sides as you do a turnover tart, cut off the paper that is too much, broil the mutton cutlers half an hour, your Veal three quarters of an hour, then take off the paper and lay them round in the dish, with the bones outmost. Let your sauce be Butter, Gravy and Lemon.
To farce Veal or Mutton Cutlets
Take a neck of Veal or Mutton and boil it in good broth, then take off all the flesh and keep the bones. Make a farce of the flesh with blanch’d Bacon, a little Parsley and Chives, some Truffles and Mushrooms, all minc’d very small, and then pounded in a mortar, with spice and the other usual seasonings, the crumb of a French roll, soak’d in Milk or Gravy, and a little Cream. Add to it some yolks of Eggs, so that it be not too liquid. Cut some bards of Bacon according to the size of your Cutlets. Lay your farce upon these bards with the Bones of the Cutlers, doing the like to each cutlet, which you may fashion with your knife dipped in beaten Eggs, as if it were a Cutlet indeed; drudge them with crumbs of Bread, lay them into a tart pan, and put them into the oven to give them a good colour. This is what we call, Cutlets farced in Cream. We serve them a Hors d’oeuvres in plates or little dishes; or else we use them to garnish any of our large dishes of the first course.
Other ways of dressing Veal or Mutton Cutlets for the first Course
After having flatted them on a table with a cleaver, lard them, drudge them with crumbs of Bread, shred Parsley, Salt and Pepper and toss them up in melted Bacon. When they are done, and of a fine colour, lay them in a dish, pour on them a good Ragoo of Sweetbreads and Mushrooms and serve them. Let your garnishing be fry’d Parsley.
You may likewise boil them in water, and when they are enough, dip them in a thin batter made of Eggs and flour, then fry them in Hog’s Lard and serve them with Verjuice, Salt and Pepper.
Another time you may marinate them for three hours in Verjuice, juice of Lemon, Salt, pepper, Cloves, Chives and Bayleaves. Then make a thin batter with flour, water, a raw Egg, and as big as a Walnut of Butter melted, all this beaten well together. Dip your Cutlets in it, and fry them in Hog’s Lard; then serve them for the first course, garnish’d with fry’d Parsley. They will likewise serve to garnish dishes of the first course.
Or you make a hodge-podge of them with turnips, etc well season’d and boil’d in strong broth. We generally, when we dress them in the manner, put Chestnuts among them.
Or lastly, you may dip them in melted Bacon, season them well with minc’d herbs, Salt and Pepper, and having strew’d them over with crumbs of bread, broil them and serve them up with good gravy.
